Need Major help Or Parents Are going To Sell My Car

[85boostbox]

well im at a loss

[DodgeZ]

I told him to unplug it so we made sure he was using the right one. code 36 means he was using the right one.

[85boostbox]

ahh ok

[scarface1689]

ya gonna switch it around 2marrow morning if that doesnt work then what else should i do

[ShadowFromHell]

Then run a MBC and be smart about it. I am still not sure why a MBC has became "unsafe".

[scarface1689]

because i was told a mbc can spike boost by itself when in cold weather but i think i have finally fixed my over boost problem

[ShadowFromHell]

Ive never had that issue. Ive had more then a few TM's running home made boost controlers. Like any other car mod, you need to watch the boost gauge.

[Bardo]

Ive never had that issue. Ive had more then a few TM's running home made boost controlers. Like any other car mod, you need to watch the boost gauge.

Correct. Most of the time when a mbc spikes and causes damage is while using a cutout eliminator. When the computer sees anything over 14.7 psi it cuts fuel and puts the car in limp mode. The coe is what stop the computer from seeing boost over 14.7 psi so if there is a spike with the mbc your boned

[TopDollar69]

I ran a MBC on my old daily driver and it never spiked, not even with -40 degree weather. It was a homemade grainger valve set for 13 psi.

[scarface1689]

are mbc known to contribute to blown head gaskets compared to computer controlled boost

[DodgeZ]

The factory controlled boost can spool the turbo just as fast as a g-valve but the factory cals don't want to have that much boost down low because of weak transmissions. Which in his case is a 525 in a heavier car. That is one reason the GLHS stage 2 computer feels like a light switch at 4000ish RPM. It allows 2 more psi. G valves were great back in the day but now that we can adjust the computer controlled boost they aren't needed. Of course some years aren't supported for custom chips. Soon we will have the ability to switch cals on the fly which means we will be able to have adjustable boost while driving down the road with the use of the factory boost control. You also have to take in to account people are telling him to turn the boost up on a stockish 25 year old t1 log car.

[scarface1689]

thanks for the info dodgez but i thought i had i a413 tranny

[Bardo]

If your car is a auto its a 413. 5speed would be a 525

[ShadowFromHell]

My advice scarface is to forget about making the factory solenoid fixed. Build or buy a ball spring MBC. They have been proven to be super reliable on a wide range of cars. I couldn't tell you how many of my own cars, or friends cars have ran this style of boost controller. It was the first mod I did to my first TM and many TM's after that. I have blown HG's using ball spring MBC's but that was MY fault. I was running to much timing on a car with a weak HG, and no boost gauge. I thought I could use my scanner to monitor the boost and it didn't work out so well. If you are worried about breaking you daytona this is what I would recommend. Premium fuel, this is a MUST! 10 degree's of ignition timing, and 10 pounds of boost. You should be more then safe with the car "tuned" that way, and still have better then stock power. This is the style of MBC I run. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...ler-works.html

As for the guys that are admit it is not safe, and a new ecu/chip is the only way to go you are somewhat right. They are better. But, to say a MBC is not safe, is ridiculous. I am actually more interested in getting a cal for the revised fan schedules, and the CEL for knock then boost control. Guys have been running MBC's on these cars LONG before cals were available. They are cheap, easy, and they work. I can build a MBC for under $20, I can not get a cal for that price. It really irks me when the "know it alls" bash the old ways. Cars have went very fast on MBC's, extra injectors, homemade RRR's, map bleeds... the list goes on. Now we have easier ways to make these cars go fast, but that doesn't mean the old ways no longer work!

[DodgeZ]

thanks for the info dodgez but i thought i had i a413 tranny

an auto Turbo Z? odd.

---------- Post added at 05:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:49 PM ----------

My advice scarface is to forget about making the factory solenoid fixed. Build or buy a ball spring MBC. They have been proven to be super reliable on a wide range of cars. I couldn't tell you how many of my own cars, or friends cars have ran this style of boost controller. It was the first mod I did to my first TM and many TM's after that. I have blown HG's using ball spring MBC's but that was MY fault. I was running to much timing on a car with a weak HG, and no boost gauge. I thought I could use my scanner to monitor the boost and it didn't work out so well. If you are worried about breaking you daytona this is what I would recommend. Premium fuel, this is a MUST! 10 degree's of ignition timing, and 10 pounds of boost. You should be more then safe with the car "tuned" that way, and still have better then stock power. This is the style of MBC I run. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...ler-works.html

As for the guys that are admit it is not safe, and a new ecu/chip is the only way to go you are somewhat right. They are better. But, to say a MBC is not safe, is ridiculous. I am actually more interested in getting a cal for the revised fan schedules, and the CEL for knock then boost control. Guys have been running MBC's on these cars LONG before cals were available. They are cheap, easy, and they work. I can build a MBC for under $20, I can not get a cal for that price. It really irks me when the "know it alls" bash the old ways. Cars have went very fast on MBC's, extra injectors, homemade RRR's, map bleeds... the list goes on. Now we have easier ways to make these cars go fast, but that doesn't mean the old ways no longer work!

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...l=1#post757408

[ShadowFromHell]

DodgeZ, why did you send me to that thread? Ive read it, and posted in it. IMO, a gvalve is the easiest way to solve his problem so he can drive his car. I do not understand why you quoted me, and then posted that link.

[DodgeZ]

DodgeZ, why did you send me to that thread? Ive read it, and posted in it. IMO, a gvalve is the easiest way to solve his problem so he can drive his car. I do not understand why you quoted me, and then posted that link.

I posted the link because we have already discussed the gvalve in the gvalve thread. Sorry I didnt spell that out. Your opinion is that it is easier to order (pay for) a gvalve and then install? Well, everyone is entitled to have their own opinion You do know he fixed his issue once it connected his vacuum line correctly? I think he corrected his MAP sensor lines and got the car running better at the sametime. Had he installed the gvalve he would have turned the boost up while having his vacuum lines for the MAP hooked up incorrectly.

[ShadowFromHell]

Im suggesting this assuming his vac line issues are fixed, and the car ran fine just running a vac line to the WG. He has changed the solenoids, and the factory boost control does not work, IF I have read this correctly. IF that is the case, buying a cal WILL NOT fix his issue with the factory boost control. IF the car ran fine by just running a vac line to the WG, installing a gvalve or MBC would be the easist way to get the car back to stock power levels. Even if his factory boost control is working fine, I would still go with a much cheaper MBC over a MP computer. Why? I would be saving for the parts to do a T2 swap, instead of on a computer that will be obsolete once its swapped to a T2 car.

[scarface1689]

all my problems as far as the over boost problem is fixed and yes my car is an 86 turbo z auto t1 with t tops and 12 button nav kinda rare i am assuming

---------- Post added at 08:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:25 PM ----------

shadow i greatly appreciate your input as well as i greatly appreciate dodgez thanks to this great community i now have my tm fixed and my parents off my back which trust me i greatly appreciate anyone who can do that lol for the time being i am gonna use this car as my dd till my other project i got going is done

---------- Post added at 08:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:29 PM ----------

oh by the way i have officially switch to 93 octane at all times because it made a world of difference to my car

[DodgeZ]

Im suggesting this assuming his vac line issues are fixed, and the car ran fine just running a vac line to the WG. He has changed the solenoids, and the factory boost control does not work, IF I have read this correctly. IF that is the case, buying a cal WILL NOT fix his issue with the factory boost control. IF the car ran fine by just running a vac line to the WG, installing a gvalve or MBC would be the easist way to get the car back to stock power levels.

There was another thread about his vacuum lines. In the end it turned out that he didn't have the vacuum lines on correctly on the solenoids (including the MAP sensor) once that corrected his car was fixed. I'd link the thread but I am sure you don't care.

Even if his factory boost control is working fine, I would still go with a much cheaper MBC over a MP computer. Why? I would be saving for the parts to do a T2 swap, instead of on a computer that will be obsolete once its swapped to a T2 car.

That is one of the things I talked about in the post I linked to. While you maybe wanting to do a T2 swap he isn't, at least not in the near future. He just wants his car to run right and his parents not to be on his case. Just because you can do something doesn't mean everyone else can. You have to remember something that comes easy to you may not for someone else.