Constant vacuum, even under boost. Probably also simplicity. The T2 cars are pulled from the drivers side of the intake, in about the same spot as the log setup. The T2 and log cars feed the booster, and then the CC and heater controls feed from the booster.
wow that is a nice ride i hope my turns out that nice.any luck with getting it right yet.
i am going to get the car here in a min guys thanks for all the input i am gonna re run the waste gate for now till in read the whole dodge garage lol . i am trying to tell my parents i can fix the car right now. thanks guys for all the comments on my car its still a work in progress but its coming along.
Subliminal i did unhook the wire no more burning stuff up lol,shelbymonster i already checked the swingvalve. and they def dont want to be fixing ashtrays lol.
What part of Tenn are you in? I'm heading to Memphis as I type this
bout an hour from nashville tn i live in a town called hillsboro
got the car back did what u guys told me too with the main source vac and it worked my car gets it normal boost again so what could my problem be the waste gate solenoid
By main source, you replaced them all? If you do not replace them all it will not run 100%. I have never see a set of stock lines that did not have a hidden crank somewhere.
To bad I am not visiting my daughter in Lawrenceburg
I have picked up freight for my company from that area beforeOriginally Posted by scarface1689
whats the company name bardo ya too bad karlak no shadow i took the waste gate line and ran it to the main source off the top off my intake
GLAD YOU GOT IT UNDER CONTROL. now read like hell then read it again.look at it then read it again . just remember what you did to get it to this point so after you reroute the lines if it spikes you can start freash again.beleave me i,ve been there. wait till you do a t2 intake swap.
or a vacuum leak or something hooked up backwards or ???
Did you run a new line to the MAP too? Is it on the LM or relocated to the strut tower?
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CRST were the big gold trucks
Glad to hear we helped!!
If you go to a Grainger valve to control boost you bypass all the electronic stuff and puts you in control.
But don't worry about that now, just drive it as is till the Oldies chill out....
the map is on the logic module in side the car haven't been able to run that yet last summer my passenger door closed and never opened again lol. ya i really wouldn't know what to do without this site and community its a very welcoming and helpful place unlike some other site i got banned from.so bardo do u come to manchester quite a bit . honestly i wish i could ditch the t1 motor completely but like i said this is my daily driver until i get my other project done then i am hopefully gonna know how to work on these car and will be able to drop in my fresh rebuilt t2 motor
will hooking my waste gate up to a main vac source make my car run rich
How rich and how do you know this?
I am not sure what solenoid is the boost solenoid on that car. If someone knew, it would be easy to hook it up and see if its working. I don't know if I have ever seen one fail.
i dont think its running too rich but the way i can tell is my exhaust tip goes from chrome to black within a couple of days and for some strange reason now if my car hits 5 lbs of boost on my gauge my car slows down and acts like its hitting over boost
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