Need Major help Or Parents Are going To Sell My Car

[scarface1689]

ya thats what happened when i got the car originally the whole vac system was shot i have had the car for about 2 yrs and its come a long way he is some full car pics

[scarface1689]

[scarface1689]

[GLHNSLHT2]

don't have a mityvac it comes from the a toggle switch under my dash and is a non factory wire that some one added i know this because how its ran and how someone stupidly pop; a hole in my firewall before i bought the car and is the sensor u r talking about on the intake

I know the wire goes inside, where's it go on the motor? The vacuum canistor is the black round thing in the picture on the intake. The knock sensor and CTS sensor are also pictured in your pic.

First things first rip that entire 25 year old vacuum harness off and throw in in the garbage!!! That is the first thing I do on any new TM I get. From the vacuum port on the intake manifold (the black thing with two vac lines coming off of it) you only need 3 lines to make a log car run. Run one to the waste gate can, one to the FPR, and one to the vac line that goes through the firewall on the passenger side. DONE. Will run MUCH better. If you don't know what all those things are, I can try to post pics.

I can't recommend that. This guy doesn't know up from down. To rip off something that is partially functioning and rebuild/redesign something seems way out of his reach. He needs to fix what's there then later worry about modifying things.


Go here: http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo.html and read through EVERY link on that page. You have a good little car there that's easy to work on. Just need to know what you're doing a bit more.

[Subliminal]

Beautiful car! If I could add a little input I'd chase that 'non factory wire' back to wherever the source is and disconnect it. If it goes to a toggle switch for old neon lights, you don't need it, and if it's been shorted out, you'd want to run a new wire to that switch anyway. You don't even have to remove the wire, just disconnect it from its power source...that's up to you, though.

[turbovanman²]

I would simply redo the turbo wastegate hose as suggested, run the turbo wastegate can to a manifold vacuum source until you've learned enough and have more time to redo the vacuum lines. These older engines have a terrible vacuum line setup. If you do this, you'll get 4-5 psi and no worries about blowing it up, sure, it will be slow but at least you'll get your parents off your back.

[Muertoloco]

at what rpm does it start to over boost???

[R/T]

As said only 3 lines run the car:

Manifold to fuel pressure regulator

Manifold to WG

Manifold to MAP sensor.

All the rest - 7 or 8 are for emissions and can be tossed and capped.

A line run direct from manifold to WG *will* stop overboost - do this and just drive the car for a while.

ALSO:

Why are your parents soooo worried about overboost???

[shelbymonster]

maybe the swingvalve is stuck close ? try to move the wg arm to see if it move freely , + 1 on cleaning the vacc lines

[turbovanman²]

ALSO:

Why are your parents soooo worried about overboost???

Maybe they don't want to pay to fix the resulting ashtray's,

[4 l-bodies]

at what rpm does it start to over boost???

It's not RPM dependent. It's dependent on how much fuel is being supplied to the motor via the logic module & power module (this cars ECU's). With your turbo, you could in theory see overboost at as low as 3000 or as high as 5000+ RPM depending on the throttle position. Ultimately by how much fuel the ECU's are providing the motor. The better question is at what PSI does it overboost? The answer is (on your vehicle) it should be between 12 and 15 PSI.

Sounds like you can use a crash course on these cars. Gary Donovan has a fantastic website to learn all about TD vehicles. You could spend probably weeks reading without to much difficulty. I highly recommend reading this for any TD enthusiast.
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/

These cars are affordable, fun, reasonably economical, but remember your car is old!. It's far older than you. Stuff is gonna break now and then and it takes some time to get bugs worked out. If you needed a super reliable vehicle, my first choice wouldn't be owning any car that's 25 years old and relying on that for daily transportation. You will find in time that half the fun of owning these old dinosaurs is working on them and making them run better than when they left the showroom floor.

My suggestion to you would be to quit telling your parents about how badly the car is running (overboosting). How do they know this unless you are telling them, or they are driving it at WOT (wide open throttle)?
Todd

[raccoon]

I dont think the car is a problem, we need to deal with these troublesome parents trying to sell such a nice daytona.

[ShadowFromHell]

I can't recommend that. This guy doesn't know up from down. To rip off something that is partially functioning and rebuild/redesign something seems way out of his reach. He needs to fix what's there then later worry about modifying things.


Go here: http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo.html and read through EVERY link on that page. You have a good little car there that's easy to work on. Just need to know what you're doing a bit more.

I do agree with you somewhat on that. It does seem a little out of his reach. But, I am a firm believer in learning by experience. Most everything I know about these cars is things I have read on the Internet and went out to the garage and did. If I had a log car I would go take some pics of how to set this up but I don't. I use to have a mspaint pic of how to do this on my old comp. Would you like me to draw one up? I would be glad to. The other stuff is for emissions, and its necessary. I put 10k on a 85 lancer with the 3 vacuum line setup and had no issues other then low power.

Actually give me a bit and I will try to make you a pic.

[BadAssPerformance]

I dont think the car is a problem, we need to deal with these troublesome parents trying to sell such a nice daytona.

Yeah... actually, what's yer parents phone number, I got $500 for that horribly running overboosting car, LOL

J/K, nice lookin 1G man!

[ShadowFromHell]

Does that help?

[BadAssPerformance]

Thats the start of a KC article right there

What about the brake booster vacuum line?

Is the extra fuel line on the regulator supposed to be the return line from the rail?

[ShadowFromHell]

The vac booster pulls before the turbo, as with the CC, and heater controls. I just know it goes into the FPR. Im not sure where the FPR is even mounted on that car so I made a picture and put it in the correct area. Some are on the intake, some are on the strut tower.

Doing it that way will disable the EGR and the charcoal canister. Neither will throw codes. Once He get this figured out and running, we can help him figure out making the stock boost control work, or how to add a manual boost controller. I did this same setup on my NY, but tied into the factory boost control to get more then 6psi. This setup is the same for a T1/T2 car, just the pieces are in different spots. Same general idea.

[BadAssPerformance]

I guess I'm not that familiar with the Log T1 ... the turbo is after the TB so you can get a vacuum signal there but the later T1/T2 have to pull all vacuum from the intake

[GLHNSLHT2]

No the turbo is AFTER the TB

[BadAssPerformance]

LOL, thanks thats what I meant! I was looking at it from the plenum perspective that it was inside the vacuum... not really sure why they plumbed that stuff before the turbo tho?