Tore apart the 2.5cb that will be going in the smurf. It was the knocking 2.5 tbi that came out of my 90 daytona.
And this is why it knocked.
Tore apart the 2.5cb that will be going in the smurf. It was the knocking 2.5 tbi that came out of my 90 daytona.
And this is why it knocked.
Slowly but surely gathering the parts.
2 piece with accufab fpr, +40's and 3 bar map.
That is looking good.
EWWWW!!!! No bueno!!! The crank is probably going to need some work, and the rods might need to be resized. Is the oil pump ok? How about the intermiediate shaft and its bearings? That engine needs to be flushed out REALLY well!!! YUCK!Originally Posted by thedon809
Tore apart the 2.5cb that will be going in the smurf. It was the knocking 2.5 tbi that came out of my 90 daytona.
And this is why it knocked.
I bet is smelled AWESOME when you took it apart! LOL
I'm going 2.2 with a forged crank. The mains and I shaft looked good still.
That's incredible that those still looked good!
It's smooth. I have a melling pump that is currently in my running 2.2 that I will put in the CB engine. It's going to be a 2.2 forged CB with fwdp t2 rods and venolia pistons for the bottom end.
The mains would maybe need a light polish.
Those I-shaft bearing surfaces look a little discolored in the pictures. Maybe it's just an optical illusion. Yes, those mains would certainly need polishing.
Got some proper rubber for the ole smurf. Dunlop direzza z2 in 205/50-16.
Also got an 89 mini smec harness that I will install along with a 3 bar map and +40's. Maybe if I blow this engine up that will give me more incentive to build another one.
Its been quite awhile since I have updated this thread. The plan as of right now is to swap in the 89 smec harness, relocate battery to passenger side to make room for a proper cold air intake, install 2 piece, +40's, 3 bar, run more boost and then blow it up lol. I removed the stock harness, LM and pm. I then pulled the head so I can install the 2 piece intake,+40's, and afpr. I think I'm going to upgrade to a nippondenso starter while I'm there.
Having no power steering makes pulling the head stupid easy.
Everything laid out.
Last edited by thedon809; 08-07-2014 at 10:26 PM.
Been working on it a little bit. Current project is to build a battery tray for a lawn tractor battery and run it where the charcoal canister used to be. Need to do this and get the power wire for the starter made before I can put the head back on. I am going to run all new power and ground wire. All of it is 2 gauge.
Some comparison shots of the lawn tractor battery vs a group 25 size battery that I was previously running. The mopar battery is about 15lbs heavier than the lawn tractor battery. I ran a 300cca lawn tractor battery in my 98 5 speed neon for 2 years no problems even with an 800w amp and 10 inch sub.
Gonna build a tray out of sheet metal and put it here.
I'm no fabricator so this is the best I could come up with. Not the prettiest but its functional. Our welder at work is terrible.
Nice! SMEC electronics ROCK!
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Pretty much finished up my ghetto homemade battery tray.
It's going to use one of the charcoal canister bolt holes.
Drilled a hole here and will put the bolt in from the fender up.
Plenty of clearance. I shut the hood and reached my hand up from the bottom to make sure.
This is going to be the next project. Not looking forward to it.
It was a tough decision but I sold my slowe k frame and DJ's a arms. At this point I just want to get the bottom end built and be able to drive my car again. I don't have enough extra income to build an engine and have the kframe and arms.
Build info.
2.2 cast crank common block
Venolia pistons
T2 rods with ARP bolts
Stock g head with pt lifters
Unknown stock roller cam
2 piece intake with ported throttle body
Stock t2 turbo with shadow 3" mandrel swingvalve and 3" side exit exhaust
3.5" cold air intake with massive cone filter
Stock intercooler until tax time probably
I picked up the cast crank from orielleys for $140. Haven't got it yet. Are ARP main studs really necessary? I think if all my mains check out good I might just skip the ARP mains, but if they need to be line honed I might as well pick them up. Also, what are everyone's thoughts on using a torque plate? I plan on installing a pressure tap in the exhaust manny to keep an eye on drive pressures as I do different mods.
Here is the 2.5 TBI block.
Head and such.
Remember to plug the oil feed to the balance shafts.
Indeed. Would be no bueno if I didn't.
Got my crank from orielleys. Looks like rods and mains were turned .050. Run the sealed powers bearings or should I go with clevites?
My wiseco pistons are on the way along with arp rod bolts. I picked up a set of t2 rods off someone on here. Hopefully I can get the bottom end built in the next month or so and have it running by spring.
Did a little work to the oil pan. Building some simple baffles. I pretty much copied Pats.
This pan had extra metal in it with some kinda dampening material behind it. Was real nasty.
Have to cut out the metal and weld it in. hopefully there is enough clearance.
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