The Chargers quest for 9's

[Directconnection]

Any other twin disc set-ups I looked into would be 1500.00-2200.00. This one fit all criteria as the price was right, costruction and quality was right, entire unit weighs 15lbs, if you want a little heavier they can go 18-19lbs with steel flywheel. Comes with a 12 month warranty and the entire unit is completly rebuildable for 250.00 + shipping!

Looks great and hope to hear it works great for you, and all others trying out their similar setups!

[Reeves]

Any other twin disc set-ups I looked into would be 1500.00-2200.00. This one fit all criteria as the price was right, costruction and quality was right, entire unit weighs 15lbs, if you want a little heavier they can go 18-19lbs with steel flywheel. Comes with a 12 month warranty and the entire unit is completly rebuildable for 250.00 + shipping!

THAT is awesome.

The one I'm working with will be in the $800 to $900 range with modified stock flywheel and around $1100 for custom flywheel. I have no clue on rebuilding cost or warranty, but the pressure plate is adjustable (shim stack) so as the discs wear, you can bring back the pressure. Then I assume you only need to purchase new discs when they are shot.

I'll shoot pics and measurements of mine today. We're fart smellers.....we'll figure this out!

[Shadow]

THAT is awesome.

The one I'm working with will be in the $800 to $900 range with modified stock flywheel and around $1100 for custom flywheel. I have no clue on rebuilding cost or warranty, but the pressure plate is adjustable (shim stack) so as the discs wear, you can bring back the pressure. Then I assume you only need to purchase new discs when they are shot.

I'll shoot pics and measurements of mine today. We're fart smellers.....we'll figure this out!

Very cool! On another note, you were right, Don't know what I was thinking/remembering (actually, the 2mm was prob the difference between where the ACT ring sits compared to our stockers) but I Just mocked up the flywheel/ring gear and it sits about 1/2" off the block! Damn, gonna have to Squeeze some Nuts before this is through!

More pics........

[ShadowBrad]

Wow, that is one trick looking setup. Hope you get that setup to work for you. I got something really crazy in the works in the next couple years and could really use a bulletproof setup like that. Wonder if the center hubs were changed out for different splines if that would fit inside the Dakota bell housing when mated to the R154 Supra Trans.

-brad

[Reeves]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...531#post837531

[cordes]

Thanks for all the work you guys are doing. I'll be able to apply this knowledge when I'm catching up to you in about two decades.

[lengel]

Looks like a MC clutch to me! I have this same cutch, but the steel version The measurements Im getting are crank flange to block = .630 clutch flange (flange of the cutch that mates to the crank) to top of diaphragm nuts=2.745 total = 3.375. Trans depth(A568) = 3.300. With my measurements that comes out to .075" of interference. What I was going to do is counterbore the diaphragm top plate .100" so the diaphragm nuts will sit in the counterbore .100" lower, then trim the bolt fush with the nut. Where are you measuring the depth on the trans?

Adam

[Shadow]

Where are you measuring the depth on the trans?

Adam

I measured from the backside of the output shaft bearing housing to a straight edge across the trans mounting flange.

[Shadow]

Looks like a MC clutch to me! I have this same cutch, but the steel version The measurements Im getting are crank flange to block = .630 clutch flange (flange of the cutch that mates to the crank) to top of diaphragm nuts=2.745 total = 3.375. Trans depth(A568) = 3.300. With my measurements that comes out to .075" of interference. What I was going to do is counterbore the diaphragm top plate .100" so the diaphragm nuts will sit in the counterbore .100" lower, then trim the bolt fush with the nut.

Adam

I actually contacted the man. of this "style' of twin about a year before MC announced that they were going to bring it to market for the SRT-4 crowd. After looking into it, it would have cost me Thousands just to get it to work on our cars. So when MC jumped in I thought "Great!" let them spend the money doing all the R&D and I'll just keep contact and do what ever else is needed to make this work for our stuff.

I get about 1/16" that looks to interfere if you go strictly by the #'s, so that would say your .100" should be enough. Reeves is looking at a full 3/8", although his PP is slightly larger diam. but I'd still like to completly set this up in my mock mtr and trans to be sure.

I was looking at the same solution, counterbore, but I was thinking a little deeper.

[lengel]

Yeah your right. That top plate is .5" thick, and sould be fine going deeper.

[Reaper1]

OK Rob, I give. What company is this MC? Is this product still available?

[Shadow]

OK Rob, I give. What company is this MC? Is this product still available?

MC = Monster clutches. This set-up was released for the SRT-4's only, except the one they made for me with different disks and a couple other minor differences.(as far as I know)

The SRT-4 community (not saying the whole community, just a couple ppl as always) pissed of the company doing the R&D and I don't know if they will do another run for the SRT-4's.

As long as we don't have any A$$ hats jump on bourd, we Should be OK as soon as I get this all worked out and functioning properly in the Charger and then for the TIII's. (for use with the stock crank trigger system)

[turbovanman²]

Why didn't you, aka Shadow and Reeves work together on this instead of 2 different company's? Seems with this small niche market, it would be wiser if you all worked with one company!

[Reeves]

Why didn't you, aka Shadow and Reeves work together on this instead of 2 different company's? Seems with this small niche market, it would be wiser if you all worked with one company!

Because I didn't know Shadow was working on a twin disc and he didn't know I was working on a twin disc until both of us were already engaged in it!

At least if everything works out right, then this community will have (2) different companies to choose from when it comes to twin disc! If not, well, hopefully at least one of us gets there's working and we'll still have at least one company to choose from!

[Shadow]

Because I didn't know Shadow was working on a twin disc and he didn't know I was working on a twin disc until both of us were already engaged in it!

At least if everything works out right, then this community will have (2) different companies to choose from when it comes to twin disc! If not, well, hopefully at least one of us gets there's working and we'll still have at least one company to choose from!

Exactly!

[turbovanman²]

Because I didn't know Shadow was working on a twin disc and he didn't know I was working on a twin disc until both of us were already engaged in it!

At least if everything works out right, then this community will have (2) different companies to choose from when it comes to twin disc! If not, well, hopefully at least one of us gets there's working and we'll still have at least one company to choose from!

Ahhhhhhhhh, I thought you guys sorta knew, lol, I guess not.

[lengel]

I took my top plate to work today so I could counterbore it. It is a 5.425"dia. 9bolt bolt circle (40deg). I have all the X and Y positions. If you want them I can PM them to you. If you dont have access to a machine I could counterbore yours for free as I have to make a program for my plate anyway.

Adam

[Shadow]

I took my top plate to work today so I could counterbore it. It is a 5.425"dia. 9bolt bolt circle (40deg). I have all the X and Y positions. If you want them I can PM them to you. If you dont have access to a machine I could counterbore yours for free as I have to make a program for my plate anyway.

Adam

That sounds Great! How deep did you decide to go? I was thinking about measuring the depth of the outer counterbores that are already in the plate and possibly matching that depth. That, or run a shorter shoulder'd nut with a shallower bore.

[lengel]

I was going to go .150" and a .75" diameter counterbore (big enough for a 1/2"socket). Did you take the diaphragm bolt out of yours yet? The top plate is threaded for the diaphragm bolts, so I dont want to go too deep. Let me know what you think. I will be setting it up tomorrow to cut them.

Adam

[Shadow]

I was going to go .150" and a .75" diameter counterbore (big enough for a 1/2"socket). Did you take the diaphragm bolt out of yours yet? The top plate is threaded for the diaphragm bolts, so I dont want to go too deep. Let me know what you think. I will be setting it up tomorrow to cut them.

Adam

Well that's over 1/8" so in theory it should be enough. I just wanted to mock the whole thing up on my "windowd" tranny to make sure that's right. Reeves needing 3/8" with the same stack height has me concerned.

I knew the plate was threaded as the first prototypes were just threaded into the plate, No loc nuts. Was going to ask Steve from SNL what depth he thought would be safe.

Also, I could never get this plate to you by tomorrow, I am in Canada!