Vibration on acceleration - ?

[Dragula]

Well Ollie this is another fine mess you've gotten me in too...

I think that pretty much sums it up... I have a 89 Lebaron GTC that had a BAD tranny seal leak with CVs that had 169K - let's just say it was not only stinky but hummed quite nicely too.

I replaced the CV axles and seals on the tranny. Now, when I cruise down the road, I vibrate now instead of hum. I mean the whole damn car shakes! The shaking increases with speed and is very bad at 32-41 mph. I also replaced the sway bar bushings because they were pretty bad. So, does anyone know what the heck would cause this? I read in some other posts that it could be the motor mounts?? How can I check them? I had my honey get in the car and shift it from drive to N to reverse and didn't see a bunch of movement but, I am not sure of the tolerances. Also, when I make a hard right turn I hear a metal on metal thunk. I thought this was the sway bar initially but it happened after I replaced the bushings for the sway bar.

Sometimes I think I'm my own worst enemy...

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Bill

[turbovanman²]

Change the axles, you probably got remans, and they can be junk, its a 50/50 chance. The inner causes the vibration. Either find good used ones or buy the brand new ones.

[Dragula]

Change the axles, you probably got remans, and they can be junk, its a 50/50 chance. The inner causes the vibration. Either find good used ones or buy the brand new ones.

I bought remans from Advanced. Never had any problems before but, I guess anything is possible... By inner do you mean the passenger side? So, you don't think it could be the mounts?

[shackwrrr]

I bought remans from Advanced. Never had any problems before but, I guess anything is possible... By inner do you mean the passenger side? So, you don't think it could be the mounts?

Inner meaning the joint closest to the transmission. On axles the rule of thumb is noise/issue during acceleration = Inner joint. noise/issue during a turn = outer joint.

[Dragula]

Inner meaning the joint closest to the transmission. On axles the rule of thumb is noise/issue during acceleration = Inner joint. noise/issue during a turn = outer joint.

I replaced both shafts in their entirety. I am going to guess that it would be the passenger side first...

[RoadWarrior222]

Have you taken it over about 40 or didn't dare? Much worse or goes away?

Reason I ask is because the short sides had a resonant vibration issue at around that speed, addressed in a TSB and corrected with a damper weight. Maybe if you've either got hard or loose mounts or bushings i.e. not stock, it could feel worse than typical for this issue. Just hard to know the actual severity of what you're describing, one persons "shakes your teeth out" is a drive in a civic compared to a fleetwood.

[Dragula]

Have you taken it over about 40 or didn't dare? Much worse or goes away?

Reason I ask is because the short sides had a resonant vibration issue at around that speed, addressed in a TSB and corrected with a damper weight. Maybe if you've either got hard or loose mounts or bushings i.e. not stock, it could feel worse than typical for this issue. Just hard to know the actual severity of what you're describing, one persons "shakes your teeth out" is a drive in a civic compared to a fleetwood.

The vibration seems to level off around 42-44 mph. I checked for the damper weight on the replacement and it was in place and solid... Right around 40 mph the vibration eases off. Didnt want to push my luck any higher...
The mounts are stock and I dont believe have been replaced. As I said earlier, the engine didn't move much when shifting from D - n - R...

[Dragula]

I am going to pull the pass side shaft tomorrow and replace. Will also check the motor alignment to verify it's centered. I can tell you that the next stop to the yard I will be pulling some spares for future use even if I have to rebuild them myself. This is the THIRD set of reman shafts!! You know what I'm thinking!?!?!

[Dragula]

I finally got the passenger shaft off. Before I did I checked the alignment of the engine. the driver side slid in about an inch, the passenger side would not move. Thinking this was odd, I checked the shaft after taking it out and there was (no) play in either of the joints. This is weird. So, I checked the joints. The outer was VERY stiff to move and the inner would move but felt as though it was getting hung up on something. Would love to pull the boot but would void the warranty. Junk parts! Pi$$es me off because of the time I spent trying to get it diagnosed & fixed. One good thing is that I have the forum to ask questions and always get the correct answer. For this, I am very thankful!
I am going to get the replacement axle tomorrow @ u-pull-it. Will update when completed.

[turbovanman²]

Yep, most rebuilts are junk, they simply rebuild the joint that comes in, if its bad coming in, its bad after being rebuilt,

Outers are simple, they usually just put a new one on.

[5sp. mini]

i would not go pull a part. might be worn out. go new and it will be your best bet but i,ve had new ones that were not right too.try to make sure they match up in size and length.

[RoadWarrior222]

I got crappy remans a long while back, so when the TBI van that was in the family needed one, I got one that was supposed to be new with no core.... that one did about 30,000 in the TBI van and when that was parted got moved to my 3.0, still suffering crappy remans and has done 50,000 in that. Wish I could remember the brand, then this post would have a point, but if you see a "new" axle priced less than a reman with no core, it's not necessarily crap and the more expensive remans are not necessarily better.

[turbovanman²]

The new ones are actually fine, never had an issue yet.

[RoadWarrior222]

Mine was possibly a Cardone select line one... the other one I've got on is a rebooted original...

[csomni]

had a bad expereance with the auto zone remans. got 2 bad ones in a row. had to change it out 3 times, talk about getting mad. the 2 time i went back to exchange it they tried to give me the frist one i took back. i told them i didnt want it so they sent me to another store, findly got a good one. will never buy remans again.

[contraption22]

In my experience, new ones tend to work smoother, but more likely to break under power than remans.

[Dragula]

I can report yet another success with the help of the folks on this board! Waahoo!! I replaced the passenger side shaft and took her for a spin and no vibration. Still have a clunk on the left side when turning right but, I believe this is a result of a failing motor mount or inner tie rod...? The inner tie rod has about an eighth to 3/16 inch play. I am betting on the motor mount.

This situation led me to think... Our mechanics have to deal with defective parts everyday - mostly from overseas manufacturers. My guess is that this happens more often than not. As a result of having to do the job more than one time, prices are adjusted to compensate for the overage in time needed and we pay more at garages to have simple maintenance done to our vehicles.

As a drawback to our corporations and political leaders off-shoring jobs, that rightly belong in the United States, they are costing us double; or more! Not only in the services delivered locally but, the health and welfare of our families.

I am thankful that I am able to do the work needed on my vehicle myself and the folks that have helped me along the way. I believe we all need to seriously think about the direction of our Country.

What have we done?

[5sp. mini]

it,s a gamble you just got to hope the beter part is the beter part. the bigger jobs are scarry and all you can do is hope. some time you just have to beet the labor time in case you have to do it twice.glad you got it fixed.