Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

[minigts]

I think YOU'RE a top nut. Actually, this is pretty good. I've always had the problem with the nut being hard to thread onto the shock. I may go this route with my factory/coil-over setup.

You are missing some information about the top nut.

Attachment 31290
Attachment 31291
Attachment 31292

The Mag nut takes the place of the spacer and is threaded all the way to the bottom. That way it can extend into the bushing and still have threads. This eliminates the problem of the threaded part of the shaft not being long enough. It took me a while to figure out what to do....

-Rich

[minigts]

Is 12x1.5 the same thread pitch on the Koni rear shocks? Anyone know that size? I think I'm going to order a pair of those.

[rbryant]

Is 12x1.5 the same thread pitch on the Koni rear shocks? Anyone know that size? I think I'm going to order a pair of those.

These were M12x1.25. I think the konis were the same but I can't remember. Just be careful when buying them because most of the MAG lugnuts are M12x1.5 and I had a harder time finding them in the finer M12x1.25 pitch.

They just require the top washer to be drilled out to 11/16" and then they work.


The BC adjuster is a 3mm allen hex so I just provide a t-handle wrench for that which you stick down inside of the nut in place of the normal adjustment dial that goes on them.

The hex portion is extra tall on MAG lugnuts so it might stick up too far to allow access to the larger plastic koni adjuster. If that is the case you would have to chop off some of it so that you can get to the adjuster on the konis.

I bought a dozen or so of them so we can probably work out a deal in PM for a pair of them.


-Rich

[shackwrrr]

any reason why you couldn't reinforce that area on the other bodies and run the same strut?

[Reaper1]

Darn...I forgot about the MAG nut trick. Oh well, I don't have an L-body anyways! LOL

[rbryant]

any reason why you couldn't reinforce that area on the other bodies and run the same strut?

I thought about that a lot and it was my initial idea.

The reason I went away from it is because the adjuster is inside of the shaft like a koni. If you drill a hole in the body of several of the cars the adjuster would be virtually inaccessible. For instance it would be under the speaker on a shadow.

The QA1 adjuster is on the side of the shock body which makes it a better setup and makes it bolt on without any mods.

You could however use the same shock but I would actually suggest using the MK3 Golf shock for a daytona. It is slightly too long for a charger/omni but would work well if you were to do the drill/reinforce method and the bottom mount/bushing is a closer match.

-Rich

[shackwrrr]

I thought about that a lot and it was my initial idea.

The reason I went away from it is because the adjuster is inside of the shaft like a koni. If you drill a hole in the body of several of the cars the adjuster would be virtually inaccessible. For instance it would be under the speaker on a shadow.

The QA1 adjuster is on the side of the shock body which makes it a better setup and makes it bolt on without any mods.

You could however use the same shock but I would actually suggest using the MK3 Golf shock for a daytona. It is slightly too long for a charger/omni but would work well if you were to do the drill/reinforce method and the bottom mount/bushing is a closer match.

-Rich

Cool thanks, the adjuster doesn't worry me, I would find a way to get in there (access hole) or just run 6x9's elsewhere. Im sure the lower mount would also require strengthening too. My next thought was to use a universal coilover and build upper mounts but these usually lack the convenience of an external adjuster.
http://www.utvguide.net/images/UTVSh...Standard-1.jpg

[rbryant]

Cool thanks, the adjuster doesn't worry me, I would find a way to get in there (access hole) or just run 6x9's elsewhere. Im sure the lower mount would also require strengthening too. My next thought was to use a universal coilover and build upper mounts but these usually lack the convenience of an external adjuster.
http://www.utvguide.net/images/UTVSh...Standard-1.jpg

There is no room for a coilover spring over the top of the shocks on the non lbody cars. The shock comes very close to the frame rail. It would require fabrication of new mounts and I am not sure what clearance issues you might run into.

I am working on some spring height adjusters for the non lbody that go in the stock spring location and require only one 1/2" hole in the axle where the stock spring goes in order to work. It is just taking a while to get to it. Hopefully in the next few weeks I will have prototypes.

-Rich

[shackwrrr]

There is no room for a coilover spring over the top of the shocks on the non lbody cars. The shock comes very close to the frame rail. It would require fabrication of new mounts and I am not sure what clearance issues you might run into.

I am working on some spring height adjusters for the non lbody that go in the stock spring location and require only one 1/2" hole in the axle where the stock spring goes in order to work. It is just taking a while to get to it. Hopefully in the next few weeks I will have prototypes.

-Rich

Thats why I was thinking of building an alternate upper mount.

[rbryant]

Thats why I was thinking of building an alternate upper mount.

Everything I am working on must bolt on with the biggest change being a possible hole to mount an adjustable spring perch.

If you are going to do extensive modifications you might as well consider adapting a neon IRS.... At a minimum the panhard bar should be converted into a watts linkage.

I think that becomes a different thread though...

-Rich

[iTurbo]

Hey guys just thought I would bump this thread as I'm going this route with my '87 Shelby CSX build. For the front I'm going with the BC kit for the Golf, with Rich's adapter plates. The rears haven't quite got all the details worked out yet, but I did get some QA1 TS801 rear shocks and BC rear springs on the way which will need a little adaptation to make work. I even got a set of end-link anti sway bars from polybushings.com on the way. Car is going to be a hoot! Stay tuned...

[rbryant]

Here are a couple of pictures of the recessed bolt plates on my GLHS.

This updated design now has the bolt head recessed below the level of the plate so they can maximize the adjustments for non modified cars.

The plates work the same way on the GJKHPA plates.





-Rich

[Ondonti]

If the spring was located on the bottom of the shock can you get anymore room in the non L bodies? I know that I have had tires rub on normal rear shocks so obviously nothing can go there.
Is the spring seat on the axle very strong if you are just drilling 1 hole in the middle? Seems like you would need to add a little plate there to spread the load.

[rbryant]

If the spring was located on the bottom of the shock can you get anymore room in the non L bodies?

The springs are always setup to be on the top even on the inverted style struts. If you moved them to the bottom perhaps it could add some clearance if you could get the springs to be 100% inside of the rim. That setup might bend the strut rod (it puts all force on the rod and not the spring hat) and it isn't available anyway.

I know that I have had tires rub on normal rear shocks so obviously nothing can go there.

Agreed, there is no room for a coilover rear on the GJKHPA cars.

Is the spring seat on the axle very strong if you are just drilling 1 hole in the middle?
Seems like you would need to add a little plate there to spread the load.

I am not sure what you are talking about. The front spring hat setup is very similar to stock except it uses a spherical bearing.

This is a front picture and the rear is completely different because it uses a shockeye mount on the bottom.

-Rich

[Reaper1]

Rich, were those pictures just to illustrate the set-up, or was that a completed install? The reason I ask is because the nylocks on those nuts aren't even engaging the threads from the bolts. I hope Loctite of some kind was used, or is suggested in that case. Another solution, of course, is a longer bolt and let the end customer trim to the desired end length.

[rbryant]

Rich, were those pictures just to illustrate the set-up, or was that a completed install? The reason I ask is because the nylocks on those nuts aren't even engaging the threads from the bolts. I hope Loctite of some kind was used, or is suggested in that case. Another solution, of course, is a longer bolt and let the end customer trim to the desired end length.

Just an illustration of the plates.

The bolts are only finger tight and no weight is on the car. The nylon lock is tight enough to where you can't turn the bolt into them easily with your fingers.

The bolts extend past the nylon lock when tight but I hadn't tightened them down yet in the picture. I was concentrating on the adjuster to plate connection and not looking at the outer bolts.

-Rich

[Reaper1]

Gotcha!

[rbryant]

I just added pictures of the newly developed bottom bushings for installing 1G eclipse shocks on an lbody to post 140:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...l=1#post815014

This most of the important Lbody rear reference pictures in one post.

It also completes the last detail on making the BC coilovers bolt on to an lbody with no modifications required!

-Rich

[black86glhs]

I like how it all fits. Rich is great to deal with(as many already know). I haven't driven mine yet with the new setup, but it sits lower and looks better.
Thanks again Rich.

[omni_840]

Good Stuff!