For the best look I think cutting the tower slightly bigger than the reinforcement plates and then welding the plates to the towers on the inside and outside.
Then grinding the welds smooth would give the best results. I plan on doing that when/if I get the whole car painted.
-Rich
Offering Custom/Niche FWD Dodge Products!
- 91+ 11" HAWK HPS/LTS Front Brake pads @ $30/1 or $55/2 sets Half Off MSRP of $70
- Custom MSD Spark Plug Wires and improved Dist Caps
- BC Racing Coilovers
- OBX LSD Rebuild Parts
- DOHC 2.0/2.4/Hybrid products
- Solid Aluminum Alternator Brackets, Holset Turbo Flanges, and Wheel Spacers
Main Products/Info/Sales Webpage
Are ER the only double adjustable option?
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
Offering Custom/Niche FWD Dodge Products!
- 91+ 11" HAWK HPS/LTS Front Brake pads @ $30/1 or $55/2 sets Half Off MSRP of $70
- Custom MSD Spark Plug Wires and improved Dist Caps
- BC Racing Coilovers
- OBX LSD Rebuild Parts
- DOHC 2.0/2.4/Hybrid products
- Solid Aluminum Alternator Brackets, Holset Turbo Flanges, and Wheel Spacers
Main Products/Info/Sales Webpage
I attempted using a hole saw to cut the holes, but I guess I really needed to weld the template first. The hole saw just wanted to bounce around and not stay centered. I ended up using a cut off wheel and die grinder. It took a lot of time and patience, I made the hole slightly bigger than the rings. As someone else mentioned, cover and tape the engine bay as it makes a big mess. I ended up painting where there was bare metal and to limit the chances of rusting. I think the end result turned out good.
I did the same, used a dremel for the finer work. Looks good installed and since you'll never see underneath it, anything to keep it from rusting is good. When I had the first iteration of camber plates for my GLHS, I tried to keep the hole simple and just cut a notch in the turn up collar of the metal. Once I got the next version for the BCs, I just cut the hole the size of the rings and never looked back.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
I think I may get a front set of these coilovers for Project LookOwt soon. Has Eibach 2801's and Koni's on it now, but they have been cut so much that the left front strut is hitting the strut mount on hard bumps causing a lot of jarring. But, I like the stance it has...
I have yet to drive my car with these on it yet, but they sure look awesome on the car.
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There are two good methods to cut larger holes, with a holesaw. One is to bolt a block of wood to the underside of the strut tower, for the drill bit to stay centered. The best way is to put another hole saw, just slightly smaller than the original hole, inside the larger one. That will keep the outer saw centered, even though there's nothing for the bit to bite into.
Finally got the car on the ground after 5 months. Stance looks awesome with these coilovers. I'll take some photos as soon as the thick layer of dust is washed off.
I want to say thanks to Rich and anyone else involved in making these products possible, amazing the time and effort some of you still put into the TD community!!!
Was looking at your page. Are the ER series only available for the Lbody? I just got an 09 CSRT 4 with BC's on it and really like them. I was going to take the Koni's off my Daytona and upgrade to your BC stuff but if I can get ER's for it then I'd probably get those vs the BR's.
I might also have to buy some extra front plates so I have camber/caster adjustment on my Shelby Lancer when I put the Konis and Eibachs on it.
ER fronts are available for the Lancer but not the rears. The top mounts on the daytona are more rare in other applications. It might be possible to do a custom bottom mount or top mount with the ERs but they wouldn't "bolt in." My first thought would be to make them mount through the body on the top side similar to an lbody but it would require drilling and possibly reinforcement of the area. IIRC it might interfere with the rear speaker location on some of the cars.
I can do a setup with ER fronts and BR rears which would work well and give most of the benefits of the ERs.
-Rich
Offering Custom/Niche FWD Dodge Products!
- 91+ 11" HAWK HPS/LTS Front Brake pads @ $30/1 or $55/2 sets Half Off MSRP of $70
- Custom MSD Spark Plug Wires and improved Dist Caps
- BC Racing Coilovers
- OBX LSD Rebuild Parts
- DOHC 2.0/2.4/Hybrid products
- Solid Aluminum Alternator Brackets, Holset Turbo Flanges, and Wheel Spacers
Main Products/Info/Sales Webpage
I've always wanted to get BC Coilovers for my Caliber SRT. They look so much better lowered. I will eventually, but it seems there are 'support' mods you have to do, to do it right as far as I've heard. Like rear camber arms, front sway bar extension links.....the price goes beyond $1k fast.
Front sits a little too low for my taste, going to have to raise it just a bit yet.
For others that have installed these, what's a safe amount to raise it. The strut is currently level with the bottom of the mount that bolts to the spindle.
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Was thinking about just a set of ER double adjustable fronts. People seem to get away with srt4 struts on APGJ cars though I remember not having much drop available. RWD weight transfer seems to like one setting soft and the other setting firm. Santhuffs or something in rear.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
If I can get under the car before winter I'll look at the front sway bar links and see if there are camber arms. I don't think there are from peaking at the exhaust the other day. I have an alignment printout from when it was done and while it's no where near where I'd set the car up at it at least drives straight and doesn't seem to be chewing tires. I don't care about the looks. I want to raise it so the front a-arms are parallel to the ground instead of pointing up so I'll have to raise the back some as well. It'll also keep the nose from scraping all the time if you don't watch it and sometimes even if you do. But I need to get a wrench as the car didn't come with one.
Rich are wrenches available seperately and what do they run??
Offering Custom/Niche FWD Dodge Products!
- 91+ 11" HAWK HPS/LTS Front Brake pads @ $30/1 or $55/2 sets Half Off MSRP of $70
- Custom MSD Spark Plug Wires and improved Dist Caps
- BC Racing Coilovers
- OBX LSD Rebuild Parts
- DOHC 2.0/2.4/Hybrid products
- Solid Aluminum Alternator Brackets, Holset Turbo Flanges, and Wheel Spacers
Main Products/Info/Sales Webpage
If I got just a front set for my '91 V6 Daytona, could I get a spring rate that matched the Eibach 2804 springs? I like how it sits right now, the back works fine but the fronts have been cut so much it's bottoming out the Koni struts. The front currently sits at about the same height as Turbo III's car is (couple posts above this one), if that's a standard height for the BC's to work properly, that would be perfect. I just would like the spring rate to match the front 2804 Eibachs since I'd be leaving the rears in and don't want the handling to be thrown due to mismatched rates.