so Rich you have adapters made up to use the bc stuff with your camber plates? If so I might be more interested in that since I'm going for as much positive caster as I can get and your plates are caster adjustable...that and I already opened up the holes and modified them some more to get an additional 1/2 degree positive Also, I'm wondering if my car might benefit from one of the higher levels of shock/strut that they offer, since I primarily autocross the car and the spring rates are going to be over 500lbs? What's your opinion on that?
Sorry for my ignorance, but can we still use the stock lbody spindles if we put spacers in between the strut and spindle? Are the distance between the strut holes different?
If I had the means to do this, I'd be all over it! Uggh....I HATE being broke! HATE IT!!
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I have the adapter bushings for my plates ready to go so it is an option.
I will try to get them to add caster to the plates but I can't really guarantee that.
I can make a custom top plate that has the same footprint and caster adjustment as my originals that bolts to their center adjuster (that is what I currently have on my GLHS). The only downside to that is that I have to make the plates so they would probably be $100 extra or so If I have to make them where if they make them they just include them in the price.
Well the external reservoir (ER) struts are better. I think those are $1000 for just the fronts but I would have to double check on that price.Originally Posted by turboz523
Either strut can take the 500lb springs but the ERs have more oil in the external reservoir and they are a true double adjustable strut.
I think you could run the ER fronts with the regular BR rears without a problem. Most of the work is done in the front of the car so that is where you really need the best stuff while the rear is kind of along for the ride.
The BRs still adjust both bound and rebound through their 30 way adjustment but it is from a single adjustment point so it is not an independent adjustment.
-Rich
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The lbody spindles are both narrower and they also adjust on the opposite bolt. The actual spacing is the same but the offset between the top and bottom is a little different.
I know that when people try to use Daytona spindles in lbody struts they have had issues with the camber angles not being right.
I haven't tried it but I think that if you ran lbody spindles in the neon strut with spacers your camber might be changed a bit. Considering that they come with a camber plate to adjust things it could probably be fixed in the top plate so that it would work.
I would however suggest that you upgrade your spindles to the 91+ non lbody style. Then you don't need any spacers, the spindle connection is stronger, and you have better brake options including the option of 11" front rotors. If you are serious enough to run these then you probably want the better spindle and brakes aswell.
-Rich
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Any idea what just a set of fronts for an L body would cost?
you can't polish a turd! [COLOR="Red"][FONT="Arial Black"][/FONT][/COLOR]13.67@100.11
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Depending on how soon you're looking for definite replies I may be in for a set for my csx-t. Just have to check finances when I get back from my honeymoon in november...we'll see how much she spends.
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This might seem like a stupid question, but are these gas charged, or can you change the oil in the cartridge?
84 Laser XE TII A555 89 Caravan SE TIV A568
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Rich,
Will the BC camber plates require cutting the strut towers?
Warren Hall
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87 CSX # 741
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The GJKHPA bodys wouldn't have camber adjustment unless the towers are modified. The hole in the stock tower is just too small. The lbody wouldn't require cutting.
For the GJKHPA cars I would probably make the plate with minimal adjustment that doesn't require cutting.
In thinking about it I might be able to come up with a design that will work for both people that cut and people that don't cut the towers. It will be a bit thicker than the stock design in order to recess the bolt tops but it should work well. Adjustment will be limited by the stock strut tower hole either way if it isn't enlarged. I will have to see what BC says about the design though.
If I can't get them to make the more complex design then the default would be to have a plate with no adjustment for the GJKHPA cars and we can work on an upgraded plate for those that are willing to cut the towers to get more adjustment. Even without the adjustment the rubber mount is removed which will give a more firm feel and eliminate extra sway from the suspension.
-Rich
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If BC produces the full kit with camber plates then yes $500 would get you the front struts, springs, and camber plates.
If I have to make a custom piece to adapt them then it would be a little more but still $600 or less.
So if we get enough people signed up then the front setup would be very nice and very affordable.
-Rich
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- Solid Aluminum Alternator Brackets, Holset Turbo Flanges, and Wheel Spacers
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rich, at what point are you going to need a deposit. I'm ready whenever you're ready, autocross season is over, and I was able to just barely pull out a win in my class. I def. want this setup for next season so I can try to pull ahead a little further.
It will probably be a week or two assuming they bite for 8 orders.
I think they probably will because I already did a proof of concept using parts that they already have with a custom plate for the fronts. The rears should also be possible to build with parts that they have and a few extras.
I think I can build the Kcar camber plate so that the same one can be used for people that cut and don't cut the towers. I just have to use a low profile cap bolt and recess the groove. That way it will actually be below the top of the plate. Without cutting adjustment will be limited by the hole in the tower rather than the bolts. The only problem is that it people that don't cut would have to remove the strut to make camber adjustments (which would be limited anyway so they should probably just set it to center).
They would be a 3/8" plate instead of 1/4" but with the BC's there is no strut travel loss so it doesn't matter.
I just have to see how much influence I can have over BC's plate design. They will probably want to do it their own way but even if that happens these can be made as an upgrade if theirs don't meet everything that mine can do.
The only difference from what I did before is to add the recess instead of it being a pure 2D design. This also makes them side specific so the cost would be slightly higher than just making a bunch of the same 2D plates that can be used on both sides.
Proposed GJKHPA Plate:
Proposed Lbody Plate:
-Rich
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- DOHC 2.0/2.4/Hybrid products
- Solid Aluminum Alternator Brackets, Holset Turbo Flanges, and Wheel Spacers
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