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Thread: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

  1. #401
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    It doesn't really matter for the thread engagement aspect of things, I was just wondering because that looks pretty low and mine were adjusted up quite a bit to achieve a similar height when I had the SRT4 versions. The version with the longer rod is about perfect for everyone IMO.

  2. #402
    Basic Vendor (MSD, Hawk, etc) Turbo Mopar Contributor rbryant's Avatar
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    Re: Unofficial BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    Quote Originally Posted by turbo_III View Post
    I'm not sure if they have the longer rod or not, I do have the 1/2 spacers installed as well. I just bought them in May. I guess this would be a question for Rich.
    You should have the 40mm longer struts than the original versions.

    I have tried to improve things along the way.

    -Rich

  3. #403
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Force Fed Mopar's Avatar
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    Quote Originally Posted by cordes View Post
    It doesn't really matter for the thread engagement aspect of things, I was just wondering because that looks pretty low and mine were adjusted up quite a bit to achieve a similar height when I had the SRT4 versions. The version with the longer rod is about perfect for everyone IMO.
    That's pretty much the height my '91 sits at with majorly cut Eibachs. I like it but the struts are bottoming out. Pretty much ruined a pair of Konis
    Rob M.
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    2.5 TIII swap is here!

    Project LookOwt
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    Back to basics, then the mods go back on....

  4. #404
    Basic Vendor (MSD, Hawk, etc) Turbo Mopar Contributor rbryant's Avatar
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    Quote Originally Posted by Force Fed Mopar View Post
    That's pretty much the height my '91 sits at with majorly cut Eibachs. I like it but the struts are bottoming out. Pretty much ruined a pair of Konis
    BC's don't bottom out like that. They have a fixed travel based on the length of the spring and the strut. The adjustment is in the bottom mount rather than from a shorter spring so they don't lose any travel when you lower them.

    The limits of lowering is mainly from the control arm angle when you run BCs.

    -Rich

  5. #405
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    Quote Originally Posted by rbryant View Post
    BC's don't bottom out like that. They have a fixed travel based on the length of the spring and the strut. The adjustment is in the bottom mount rather than from a shorter spring so they don't lose any travel when you lower them.

    The limits of lowering is mainly from the control arm angle when you run BCs.

    -Rich
    Nice. Did you see my previous question about getting a spring for the BC fronts that would match the Eibach 2804 fronts, so they would work with the Eibach 2804 rear springs if I left them in there? IIRC the 2804 front spring rate was 300 lbs/in.
    Rob M.
    '89 Turbo GTC
    2.5 TIII swap is here!

    Project LookOwt
    '91 Daytona ES, 61k original miles, Rick Lozier's old 3.0 nitrous car
    Back to basics, then the mods go back on....

  6. #406
    Hybrid booster
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    Those who have the original SRT length version ... what was the car height when they were adjusted all the way up?

  7. #407
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    I'm not sure if I have any pictures of our Daytona with them on there. I'll check to see if I have any with the CSX. It's about as low as you want to go with them adjusted as high as I felt comfortable going given the thread engagement spec.Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #408
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    ETA: that's a bad photo of our old daytona with them at their as shipped height. It was way too low.

  9. #409
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    ETA II: Here is a photo of my CSX with the same struts on it. It's not the best either, as it looks like there is a lot more room than there really is. IIRC you can get about two fingers between the tire and fender. The car is about a hand's width off the ground at the front fascia. The control arms are roughly parallel with the ground though, so that's what is really important.

    IMG_8931

  10. #410
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper1 View Post
    To cut the strut towers out, I nested 2 hole saws. I used a smaller one that fit inside the current hole, and then nested that saw inside a larger one that cut the hole out the size I wanted. It took a while. It made a mess (I suggest a vacuum to get rid of all the metal shavings). I did use lube, but it still took a while. You have to use a powerful drill (I ended up with a 1/2" chucked Dewalt with the extra handle on it!), so be careful because it'll wreck your wrists! I don't know that I ever got those 2 hole saws apart. I think they are still on the same adapter in the bottom of my tool box!
    That would be a great way to go if you're going to use a hole saw.

    Quote Originally Posted by LaserDad View Post
    I did my towers a few years ago, and used a hole saw. Now that I have a plasma cutter, I would highly recommend it, instead.

    Definitely tape and cover the entire engine compartment, before drilling. You will never be able to get rid of some of the filings, and they will rust.
    A plasma cutter would be ideal for this job. I attempted to use a hole saw today with the template, but my saw wanted to jump around everywhere and ended up making an oval out of the template in short order. I busted out the die grinder as suggested by someone earlier in this thread. It took a while, but I have some fairly round holes in the strut towers now. If I went to a cartridge roll or flap wheel with the rings in there, it would make it perfect. I now have a scarred portion of my pass side tower which just caused the damaged strut tower opening to shift sides since the mechanic who did my original alignment tore up the driver's side. Oh well. That's life.

    I would add that the filings doing it this way were unreal, so I can only imagine what that would be like with everything in the car.

  11. #411
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    Ouch! Man, sorry to hear that. I agree a plasma cutter would be the best tool for this job. Yeah, the shavings it made was obscene! I taped stuff off a little, but it still went all over. The PB Blaster kinda kept it lumped, then I shop vacced the crap out of everything with a blow gun to help dislodge hidden FOD.

  12. #412
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    if you have iron filings you can't retrieve simply pour an oil chaser in after them.. at least they won't rust if you remember to do it every once in a while

  13. #413
    boostaholic
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    I am looking to build a hole saw fixture for cutting the holes for enlarging the strut towers. I have already built a strut tower brace so I know where the holes need to be. What size hole saw are people using? I am looking to make a jig that anyone can use to cut out their strut towers. It will have a removable insert that will center the jig on the original hole, then give a solid fixture to drill out the strut tower by bolting into the strut mount holes. Should make this process a lot simpler I just need to know what size hole saw people are using.

  14. #414
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    I'll check mine in a bit and report back. I want to say it was 4", but I'll double check that.

  15. #415
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    I have my BC's on order. Can't wait until they get here. Ordered the ER external reservoir fronts with BR rears. Not sure if I will drill out the strut towers. Would feel kinda bad doing that to a numbered car.

  16. #416
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleD View Post
    I am looking to build a hole saw fixture for cutting the holes for enlarging the strut towers. I have already built a strut tower brace so I know where the holes need to be. What size hole saw are people using? I am looking to make a jig that anyone can use to cut out their strut towers. It will have a removable insert that will center the jig on the original hole, then give a solid fixture to drill out the strut tower by bolting into the strut mount holes. Should make this process a lot simpler I just need to know what size hole saw people are using.
    I simply used a regular hole saw chuck and 2 saws on the same chuck. I think the inner one that fits inside the OE hole is 2.5", maybe 3"? and the outer one was whatever size I needed (4"?). This is a "wrist breaker" set-up! In order to do the job, you need to use at least a 1/2" chuck drill...which WILL try to break your wrists!

    I *HIGHLY* suggest a plasma cutter...if you have access to one.

  17. #417
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    the tool rental guy might have something - this one goes to 4 1/2 inches

    hydraulic 15 ton, likely much better tool than a greenlee punch for thin electrical box metal

    https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Met.../dp/B007I7HJNY

    and , just big how does the hole need to be ?

    best thing to cut steel is a shear , no mess .. just hole

  18. #418
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    My experience with BC's so far. Might help someone out.

    My Daughter's Caliber SRT4 came with BC's from the kid's dad we bought it from. The car rode very very firm. And while it did handle well I was nervous about getting them for my Magnum and my turbo dodges after driving this car. Rail road tracks that I take at 30mph in my other cars I couldn't go more than 15mph over. It would torque steer like crazy and if you hit a bump mid corner would catch enough air to upset the car. I just figured it's because how stiff they were. Well ended up getting wider tires to get an aspect ratio that gave it a stock over all diameter 255/40-19's vs 225/45-19's. Had to go 5mm smaller wheel spacers all the way around to pull the tires in a bit but it was still rubbing on bigger bumps so I knew I had to adjust the coil-overs up some.

    Started this end of july. I jack up the car and start trying to get the lock rings loose. I got the ones loose that I needed to raise the car. Some where completely seized together but I didn't need them to come apart to raise the car. So I sprayed PB blaster on them and started to work. Got the fronts up. and went to work on the backs. The Left rear had been bottomed out in it's lower bucket got salt and dirt in it with no place to go and seized. I took it off, put it in the vice and Spindle head in the CNC machine at work and tried to break it free with a 4ft pipe wrench. No go, Ok cut the cup off. Put 4 slots in it just to barely see the start of the threads. Nope, cup won't break apart.

    Get on BC's site and order a new dampner and bottom cup mount and some lock rings. At this point we're leaving to take my daughter to college in 2 weeks so I figured I had at least one weekend to get the shock installed and an alignment. WRONG The dampner was back-ordered. It wouldn't come till after we left. Ugh, so I got my magnum ready for her to take, she has it now.

    We get home and last weekend I get the dampner on and start adjusting. No matter what I did that corner would NOT Raise up. Got to the point where the dampner came out of the mounting cup I had screwed it so high into the air trying to raise that corner. At that point I thought ok lets pull off the other rear and see if they're the same as maybe they sent me the "extreme low" dampner by mistake. Everything looked the same except the pre-load of the spring. The orignal was set much tighter than I had set it via what BC's site had told me to do. So I figure I'll just adjust the pre-load of the original to match the new. Wrong! one of the stupid rings was seized to the strut. In to work I go and cut that one off and order a new one. Thankfully that was only $10. But I'm into this project $200 already and it was $5k to get my daughter to school with the gas, hotels, and supplies she needed. So let's just say I'm not too keen on spending money right now.

    Ok so lock ring comes in this last thursday and today (saturday I got to work. Set the preload on the original rear corner to match the new side I had to get. Dropped it on the ground and it was better. But with both rears in the air one side measured 17" of droop from my measuring point and the other was over 18! But If I didn't have that much the car didn't sit level in the rear. I didn't like it. Figured I'd check the fronts. That's when I figured it all out. All the preload on the original corners was set way wrong. The front left wouldn't droop at all when you jacked the car up. The front right did a little bit bug not as much as I thought it should. Basically the front left had so much pre-load the shock was fully extended and they just slammed the car via turning the dampner until they got the right height they wanted. I raised the body of the damper up over 2 inches in the spindle housing. Then started backing off the preload until the spring came loose and adjusted pre-load via BC's site. Now the front and rears had the same amount of drop from rest (About a hand's width and the rear had just over a hands width). and on the ground the car sat mostly level side to side. At this point I adjusted the preload to then match up the ride heights. It didn't take much but the car sits how it should. I don't know what the corner weights are and which I had a set of scales to see but you can get 2 fingers between the tires and the fenders all the way around.

    By this time I was burnt so I buttoned up the suspension and headed home (My car work place is 2 blocks from my house). Put the interior in this evening and took it for a test drive. WOW what a difference. The torque steer is GONE! The ride is firm but not jarring. You can't feel the bumps but you can tell the suspension is working but not moving much. It corners much better even though I didn't push it to hard as it needs to be aligned still and it was dusk with deer and cops out. As I accelerated my wife started yelling at me for a big bump coming up. I slowed but was still going 45ish and the bump barely fazed us. Before if you had hit it at more than 20 it would of been very bad.


    So guess the point to my long story is that it's easy for someone that doesn't know what they're doing to really F these up. Like I said based on my initial experience I was very dreadful about getting these for other cars. After getting them adjusted like I think they should be I'll be equipping my other cars with this as soon as I can afford it. They're great. Rich has done all the hard work to have these on our cars and will be getting them from him for my turbo dodges. He even helped me when I had questions about stuff related to this Caliber.

  19. #419
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Dr. Johny Dodge's Avatar
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    Re: Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    wow
    that's a hell of a lot to go through before you could give a positive endorsement but I'm glad I read it !!

  20. #420
    boostaholic
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    Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

    Finally got around to working on a guide tool. I went to take some measurements of the strut tower and noticed that my strut tower is not concentric to the cutout in the strut tower. The stock strut tower hole is about 2.25” diameter. I want to enlarge the holes to 4”. Here a couple of pics,



    I am not sure if my strut tower needs to be rewelded or the holes just aren’t centered. I took a look at the drawing for the current strut tower I built and the strut stud holes are concentric. Not sure what’s going on here.
    Side note: the hole in the center of my strut brace plates are 4”.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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