Official BC Coilover Kit Development Interest.

[DevoBuzz]

Wow. Yeah that is a problem for me. I think I have 40 mm in front and prob15 mm rear. And the car is really low. I do have soft spring though. 225 front and 140-250 progressive rear.

[cordes]

OK, with the 1/2" spacer under the top plate, late knuckles for the extra 3/4" and SRT4 struts set to min recommended thread engagement I'm 1" lower than I was before on Konis and Eibachs. IMO that's great because when I thread the struts out 1" I'll still be at a deeper thread depth than I was in the Daytona for 1000s of miles. I'm perfectly fine with that. The geometry should be way better than the Daytona too.

Thanks again Rich for all the work you put into these.

[rbryant]

That's about 3 5/32". I'll be setting the car to this height with the late knuckles and spacers to show what that looks like. I'm thinking that there is no way it'll be able to thread in that far and still be OK control arm wise and ride height wise.

I will have to call about that.

I am pretty sure that it was less than 80mm when I talked to them.

I am now supplying the fronts with +40mm on the GJKHPA body cars and +20mm on the Lbody.

-Rich

[minigts]

The rears I wouldn't see as much of an issue as the fronts. Hard cornering and way more weight up there, but the rears are just traveling up and down and much less force being applied during compression. Regardless, I have less than what is recommended, assuming Cordes numbers are correct. That's for the Lancer though. The GLHS is setup up probably on par with his recommendations. What I will say is, IF their numbers are what he says they are, it would require a LOT of lowering just to get it in spec, which would more than likely drop the car lower than most would like, I would think.

Regardless, I like mine and the setup.

[DevoBuzz]

Cordes...how did you raise the rear?

[cordes]

Cordes...how did you raise the rear?

I'm still on the Konis with Eibachs in the rear. I extended the struts 1" and I'll measure tomorrow. When I got the car it was at 5.5" of front fascia clearance. With that 80mm number that clearance dropped to 4.5". I want to roll the car out of the garage and back before I take the final measurement. That's what I did before to make sure it was settled etc.

[cordes]

What's everyone doing for cam bolts at the knuckle when using the SRT style bottom? My alignment guy here in town isn't very happy with me right now as mine don't hit the wing on the strut which is meant for the adjustment.

[rbryant]

What's everyone doing for cam bolts at the knuckle when using the SRT style bottom? My alignment guy here in town isn't very happy with me right now as mine don't hit the wing on the strut which is meant for the adjustment.

The SRT4 cam bolt should fit them. That is something that I should mention more clearly. If using the wider SRT4 spindle a longer bolt is probably required.

Overall I wouldn't adjust it at the bottom and would just set it maximum one way or the other and then fine tune with the plates.

I hadn't given it much thought because I don't adjust the alignment at the spindle anymore.

I do see the point that it is good to have the wings contact like stock to make them less likely to slip.

What bolts are you using now?

-Rich

[cordes]

Thanks. I'll have to order some up. I think the guy at the garage is going to kill me by the time this is all done. He can't get them perfect with just the plates due to the way I have the knuckles pinched in there. Hopefully he can get the knuckles adjusted so that he can do it with the plates. I really need to just start doing my own alignments.

[cordes]

ETA: Does anyone have a link to the bolts? A quick search is turning up some funky looking bolts.

[rbryant]

Thanks. I'll have to order some up. I think the guy at the garage is going to kill me by the time this is all done. He can't get them perfect with just the plates due to the way I have the knuckles pinched in there. Hopefully he can get the knuckles adjusted so that he can do it with the plates. I really need to just start doing my own alignments.

Yea setting toe can be a pain but camber is actually pretty easy...

Toe is really more of a pain just because you can't get a gauge half way up the frontside and backside of the wheels without hitting ground effects... I just changed my BMW steering rack and it makes it hard to get the toe right. Plus gettting the steering wheel centered with a bar toe tool take a few tries.

I have a craftsman "torpedo level" that has a nice camber setting. It just requires a straight edge that is the right length for your wheel. A piece of angle steel works well or angle aluminum but with aluminum you don't get the utilize the magnetic base.

Realistically there are several Android and I(diot)Phone Apps out there that can sense camber to less than a quarter degree making the torpedo level overkill.

-Rich

[minigts]

My bolts fit fine. If you have camber plates, he should have no problem getting the negative camber way in down low and then adjust in small increments up top pretty easily. I know probably what his issue is, but I asked the guy to make the necessary adjustments down low and then adjust as needed up top.

[cordes]

My bolts fit fine. If you have camber plates, he should have no problem getting the negative camber way in down low and then adjust in small increments up top pretty easily. I know probably what his issue is, but I asked the guy to make the necessary adjustments down low and then adjust as needed up top.

Yeah, at the end of the day he got the job done. I'm not 100% satisfied though. I think it could have gone a little better. The problem is that I haven't cut the strut tower tops and it takes forever to drop the struts, make the adjustment, reinstall, and recheck. The guy had 4 hours into the job as it was.

[cordes]

I picked up a set of knuckles out of a PT cruiser with a manual trans yesterday. Should these go into the CSX with the BCs? I'm not the happiest with how the car is aligned right now with the spacers and stock 91+ knuckles. Does anyone know what the PT units would do ball joint wise etc? What size bore is in the stock PT caliper? I got the whole deal.

[cordes]

Tried to do some digging and it looks like they're just 57mm pots in the calipers. I should note that this was a regular 2.4 PT and not the turbo.

[zin]

I just bought a wilwood big brake kit for my 5-speed pt gt. It was a little over $500 to my door. I may do a write up on its install.

I feel like it's a great deal for what you get.

Mike

[Force Fed Mopar]

Neon, PT and SRT spindles all fit the earlier ball joints.

[cordes]

I just bought a wilwood big brake kit for my 5-speed pt gt. It was a little over $500 to my door. I may do a write up on its install.

I feel like it's a great deal for what you get.

Mike

What size brakes? 4 pot calipers? What MC size comes on those anyway? That's not bad for a whole kit to say the least. I take it the kit comes with new caliper brackets?

[Force Fed Mopar]

I just bought a wilwood big brake kit for my 5-speed pt gt. It was a little over $500 to my door. I may do a write up on its install.

I feel like it's a great deal for what you get.

Mike

Me and DodgeZ installed the WilWood SRT4 big brake kit on his GLHS 5-6 years ago. Used complete SRT4 strut and knuckle assembly, late 90's minivan tie rod ends, and the Wilwood kit. Had to run 17's to clear them but they worked. Needed more master cyl though (he was still using the stock master cyl), we ended up putting stock PT knucles and brakes on it and that works fine.

[cordes]

Thanks for that info. I take it that the SRT ACR wheels won't clear either/ I have 16" wheels on my CSX and I'm staying with them so anything that'll require a jump to 17" is a no-go.