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Thread: Starts and Dies

  1. #1

    Starts and Dies

    So lately I've been having an issue where I'll be driving and the engine just sputters to a halt. It basically loses power to the point where it will stall within 5 seconds or so, but its not a hard shut off. When this happens, all the throttle does is change the vacuum reading.

    Once it completely dies, I can usually restart it and be good to go. Three times now though, I've had a no-start issue. It will crank, then fire for maybe a second and die. Throttle does nothing. Once I turn the key off and back on it will start and run for another second, then die. So it seems like I'm getting spark and fuel, but why does it die after a second?

  2. #2
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Starts and Dies

    Codes? What year? What car? Mods?

  3. #3

    Re: Starts and Dies

    1987 Daytona Shelby Z:
    • Ported Head
    • Ported Exhaust Manifold/Intake
    • +40s
    • ShelGame Cal
    • GN Turbo
    • 52mm TB
    • FMIC
    • Walbro 255
    • TBI Cam
    • AR-51s
    • Aurora Wires
    • Newish Cap/Rotor

  4. #4
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    Re: Starts and Dies

    No codes? It could be a cal issue, but I would check the codes etc. first.

  5. #5

    Re: Starts and Dies

    No codes, well except 12 & 55. This is the longest its been non starting.

  6. #6

    Re: Starts and Dies

    New developments: swapped in a spare coil and HEP I had. No change. I did notice that while the fuel pump primes, it does run. So after the car runs for a few seconds, I have no fuel pressure. I am looking at a new power module?

  7. #7
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Starts and Dies

    Quote Originally Posted by impuresoul2k3 View Post
    New developments: swapped in a spare coil and HEP I had. No change. I did notice that while the fuel pump primes, it does run. So after the car runs for a few seconds, I have no fuel pressure. I am looking at a new power module?
    If you have a spare to swap in I would just for the test anyway. Have you run power from the + battery terminal to the + side of the coil to see if the pump is dead when it won't run? That energizes the Z1 circuit which fires up the pump, so if it won't run you either have a bad pump or bad wiring to it.

  8. #8

    Re: Starts and Dies

    Runs if I jumper it, but if I leave it stock, it only primes. I did have it running and started with the coil jumpered, but shut it off to make the wire more secure for the drive home. Then the starter seemed to be locked up :/

  9. #9
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Starts and Dies

    I would check to see if you're getting power to the Z1 circuit which I believe emanates from the PM.

  10. #10

    Re: Starts and Dies

    That's what I've been leaning towards. I think I have a spare, with a broken voltage regulator lol.

  11. #11
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    Re: Starts and Dies

    Quote Originally Posted by impuresoul2k3 View Post
    That's what I've been leaning towards. I think I have a spare, with a broken voltage regulator lol.
    You could always run an external reg out of a 70's D150 or something.

  12. #12

    Re: Starts and Dies

    Yeah, I've done that before, but I'd rather not hack up my harness...anymore than it is. I even have a 79 D150

  13. #13
    turbo addict
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    Re: Starts and Dies

    My van did this for a month a couple of years back and I never found out what the hell it was. I presume it was a bad connection I wiggled back into place when I was checking it out, or that I had water in the gas.

  14. #14

    Re: Starts and Dies

    Its happened on plenty of different tanks of gas. Its definitely something electrical.

  15. #15

    Re: Starts and Dies

    Ok, well engine is locked up as of now. It didn't turn over (no movement at all) after I was running the pump (without the engine) and tried restarting it, so I wonder if I have a bad/leaky injector and it just filled a cylinder...

  16. #16
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    Re: Starts and Dies

    ruh roh... pull the plugs, expect to find coolant in it if you're feeling unlucky.

  17. #17

    Re: Starts and Dies

    I honestly thinking an injector(s) got stuck open, or they leak. The car was running for about 30 seconds prior just so I could see if the fuel pump was indeed not running. I shut the engine off, attached the jumper wire to the fuel pump/coil more securely so I could at least drive the car home (about 2 miles away), then got in to start it again and the starter did nothing, just drew all the power from the battery. So I doubt a headgasket blew between it running, then me shutting it off.

    I'm guessing I either have a bad PM and/or bad injectors. I've been having all sorts of weird, random problems lately. Car dieing, not starting, seatbelt light staying on for about 20 minutes of driving then going off for no reason, shitty idling, slightly increased fuel consumption (I thought this for a few weeks before this problem occurred. Wasn't bad, maybe getting 15-18mpg in the city compared to about 20),

  18. #18
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    Re: Starts and Dies

    No what happens is they can leak small and the motor can cope with that amount of water until it gets to a low rpm, then it stalls, perhaps you can restart it, get the revs up, keep it burned off, BUT then when you leave it to sit when hot enough it fills up the cylinder.

  19. #19

    Re: Starts and Dies

    Sorry, but I'm really doubting its a head gasket issue, I mean it was running completely fine just 30 seconds before it was locked up, and in those 30 seconds I was running the fuel pump constantly.

  20. #20
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    Re: Starts and Dies

    Well if it is that, it's one hell of a leak, I figure stock injectors should flow about a tablespoon full in 30 secs full on, that's enough to "flood" it but I wouldn't think it would hydrolock a motor.

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