Yeah T1 and T2 disc is the same. FWIW I ran an Advance Auto clutch kit on my GLHS (and in the Daytona for a while) for 2+ years at 15 psi, it never gave up.
Yeah T1 and T2 disc is the same. FWIW I ran an Advance Auto clutch kit on my GLHS (and in the Daytona for a while) for 2+ years at 15 psi, it never gave up.
I ran a parts store clutch and the hub cracked, I replaced it with a T2/T3. My four puck is from Clutchnet.
Ummm... From what I have seen there IS a difference between a T1 and T2 disc. Physically, they look different. The T1 unit is smooth, and the T2 unit has groves or vents in it. Performance wise, I put together a T1/T3 for a buddy because its what we had and it would slip at 18psi in 3rd at the track. Ive had T2/T3's in a couple shadows and actually put a used one in that same daytona and it didn't slip. Now, at the same time I know napa and a few others show the same part number for a T1 disc and a T2 disc. I think that has more to do with the fact they are interchangeable and doesn't reflect the factory standards.
Maybe Cindy can chime in here? Ive bought both my T2/T3's from her. They are cheap too, last one was like 180 bucks?
Yea, I'd prolly be fine with a T2/T3. I've got a brand new T3 pressure plate and throw-out bearing along with what the previous owner was sure is a T1 omni clutch. I thought that the T2 clutch disk was semi-metallic, with little shreds of copper thrown in with the organic friction material. If I could score a T2 clutch disk all by itself that would surely do me just fine.Originally Posted by ShadowFromHell
Its wrong to say a solid hub is going to chatter. That really has nothing to do with the sprung hub. The only thing spring hub really does that you can notice is slam back and forth with your transmission slop, and maybe not break the tires loose when you slam the clutch out too fast at low revs.
Chatter is all about the pucks material and the surface.
Heavy shaking is usually crap motor mounts combined with either low rpm or bad material. My daily is super smooth on a clutcnnet 4 puck until I completely let out the clutch, then the side mounts bang around.
I don't bother with resurfacing stuff because ceramic just eats things. It can cause more chatter to not resurface properly if something was damaged by heat.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
reference?
2022 Viper runs 9s
There is a difference between a T1 and T2 disc. I think the easiest way to tell is by hub spring count .. all T1's I've seen have 6 small springs (Luk), the T2's have 4 large springs (Sachs/Valeo).
interesting. What difference is there other than the number of springs in the hub?
Did you find a T2 disc? I think I have a decent used used one. Let me know.
The springs in the T2 disc are Way thicker!
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2022 Viper runs 9s
Hmm.. i see the differences in the disc (visual differences at least), but im wondering about the pressure plates. Ive had bunches of turbo pressure plates and have never been able to tell them apart because i usually didnt have them all out at the same time.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
The real Sachs plate (MF_124)? is the only plate they ever offered for these (turbo) cars from what they've told me. (that's for their T2 clutches and their T3 offerings) No mention of clamping force differences either ... I asked that too.
I have a 4 puck in the LeBaron. If I drove it every day I could probably use it more smoothly. I wish it were smoother but it's perfectly livable as long as the PP isn't too heavy.
I have had a 4 puck ceramic and blue TU pressure plate in my charger for a few years. It is not bad to drive on the street once you get used to it. It is a little grabby but OK to deal with. I just pulled my motor out and the clutch, Fly wheel, and pressure plate hardly show any wear. That is after several hundred burnouts and launches at the track.
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Here is a pic of my (I'm assuming factory) old TII clutch disc.
It was wearing thin so I bought a barely used clutch from somebody and he said it's a TII disc, however it doesn't have the grooves in it.
The stock clutches I've pulled were made by Sachs. I don't think T1/T2 has anything to do with the number of springs in disc. Maybe the early T1s (pre-89) were different. The guy behind the parts counter at the dealer when I ordered the last Mopar clutch I ever bought (made from a '91 T3 PP and an 87 "T2" disc) said the T1 and T2 disc were the same P/N...at least for 87. This was circa 1999.
I beat the snot out of that clutch and it held except for the springs. They got really sloppy and noisy. I replaced it with another T2/T3 with an LUK disc and PP (from Relentless Performance) and it did not hold as well as the Sachs. It was fine on the street, but it would not hold if I launched it really hard. The one time I took it to the track it got quite glazed and took several 100 miles of gentle street driving to get it grippy again.
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