Originally Posted by
boboli
WOW CORDES! Props to you guys representing the true TD'er spirit! All be it probably the #1 most dangerous/deadly place to be on a freeway. I think the only thing more dangerous is stupid people backing up on the freeway. I thought I was daring 15 yrs ago when I had to drive my turbo tbird 200 miles from my home to the college I was attending (to avoid emissioning it). I stopped at a rest stop 100 miles from home, opened the hood, saw the oil return line was on fire, calmly dumped some water bottles on it to extinguish it, changed it right there, and turned around and went home. Changing a timing belt on the side of the interstate is pretty insane! How many highway patrol officers stopped by?
I assume you aren't blaming the car wash for the problem, because I think a majority of people on here will attest that your trip to the car wash combined with your car dying, is just coincidence.
You said that all the lights were working when the car sputtered and died, did the check engine light come on solid before it died? I assume you got the code 13 after this happened?
I may be wrong about this (and its late @ night) but if the computer doesn't register the crank shaft turning, and doesn't it use the hep in the dist. for this, then it doesn't power up the asd which would be the reason there is no power to the coil and also to the fuel pump. Isn't this what a code 11 is, except that code only shows up after there is a complete loss of power to the computer and then on the 1st crank of the engine, the computer doesn't register info from the hep, showing the engine is turning.
If your crank turns, along with all the motor accessory belts, but the timing belt doesn't move; then the timing belt has lost its teeth @ the crank. In my opinion this probably happens more often on belt driven cars than the belt actually snapping.
I thought I heard that a code 13 may also be triggered by a voltage issue to/ from the map sensor. I bring this up only because you said you fixed the vac lines to the map. I would first test vac right at the map, then maybe test voltage readings going into and coming out of the map as well as also continuity through the ground wire @ the map. If this looks alright, then try t'ing in there with a line that you can run into the car with the gauge and then you should also use a volt meter to test the voltage from the map @ the computer. To really check these properly, you need to rig something so you can drive the car while reading the gauges. If the idle readings seem correct, you need to bring the vacuum/boost gauge and the volt meter into the car. It helps to get some one competent enough to read the gauges and record the results to ride along with you. This way you can see the full range of vacuum and voltage to the sensor. May be a bad map but it can also be a wiring issue to the computer. Just an idea if the problem keeps coming back.
Best of luck!
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