Installed a LU in the A413, definately worth it!

[turbovanman²]

I converted over to a LU a few weeks ago but haven't had time to hook it up, so today, spent 10 mins and just hooked it up to a toggle switch. I am running a 3.05 FD with 225/55R16 tires.

Before, 60 mph was aprox 3200, 75mph was almost 4000 rpm, Online calculators put my rpm at 2700 and 3000 respectively, so either they are wrong or I've got massive slip.

I barely played as stupid traffic got in the way but what I noticed was, if you leave it turned on, it will unlock when it downshifts to 2nd gear, pretty cool, BUT if your not traveling fast enough, it really lugs the engine when it hits 3rd,

So now, 60 mph is 2900, and I barely managed to get to 75 a few times and its around 3600, so a drop of roughly 400ish rpm, and if I use it in 3rd, its like driving a stick, no TC slip,

[86Shelby]

Lockup in 3rd is a beautiful thing until you forget to turn it off and the engine spits & sputters when coming to a stop.

Holy crap your cruise RPM is high! 75 is about 3100 for me, which I thought was nuts.

[looneytuner]

some info I saved. I can't credit the sources.

I'll let you guys in on a little secret. I ran a Neon 2.0 31th LU converter with my '91 TBI 2.5 413. It had 2500 stall and ran better even with broken rings. (1800 with og conv.) The Neon conv. works perfect with the Turbo engine. It has the same stall (within 200 rpm) as the non LU turbo conv. As long as you don't *engage* the LU under high boost, it should be fine for a long time. You can run "good boost" *after* it locks up only. I made a template to put the timing marks on the Neon conv. It doesn't have any in the og application. The coolest part is the Neon conv's have torrington bearings already in them. I guess Mopar had enough problems to make this upgrade. It's also easy to convert a LU to non LU VB. It's just swaping the plate with the solenoid on it to one without the solenoid. It has to a '87 and newer though. I hope this helps........
Reply With Quote

[looneytuner]

someone else had a reference to using a GM pressure switch in the solenoid hole activated by boost to keep it out of lockup when boosting?

[A.J.]

some info I saved. I can't credit the sources.

I'll let you guys in on a little secret. I ran a Neon 2.0 31th LU converter with my '91 TBI 2.5 413. It had 2500 stall and ran better even with broken rings. (1800 with og conv.) The Neon conv. works perfect with the Turbo engine. It has the same stall (within 200 rpm) as the non LU turbo conv. As long as you don't *engage* the LU under high boost, it should be fine for a long time. You can run "good boost" *after* it locks up only. I made a template to put the timing marks on the Neon conv. It doesn't have any in the og application. The coolest part is the Neon conv's have torrington bearings already in them. I guess Mopar had enough problems to make this upgrade. It's also easy to convert a LU to non LU VB. It's just swaping the plate with the solenoid on it to one without the solenoid. It has to a '87 and newer though. I hope this helps........
Reply With Quote

Wow this gives me an idea. I have to swap my tranny because I broke it. I don't have a LU valve body but my girlfriends Mom's '90 TBI van does. I converted it to auto from manual and her computer doesn't turn the lock up on. So I could steal her valve body, replace it with a non-LU V.B. then I just have to get a LU torque converter. Hmmmmmm.

I have a couple of questions though. 1) I should be able to leave her LU torque converter alone, right? Like I said the computer can't turn it on anyways. 2) Am I going to have to make any modifications to her valve body coming from a TBI (originally the trans came out of a '93 TBI 2.2 Shadow) as far as shift points or anything else to make it feel like it came from a turbo car? I'm drilling a hole in the case to be able to adjust line pressure. I'm also replacing the rear band strut with a HD one.

A.J.

[86Shelby]

I don't see how you can make a LU tranny out of a non LU tranny by simply changing the converter and valvebody. At the very least the input shaft is different and I would image the case and possibly the pump body is different as well.

[A.J.]

I don't see how you can make a LU tranny out of a non LU tranny by simply changing the converter and valvebody. At the very least the input shaft is different and I would image the case and possibly the pump body is different as well.

Ya, i just remembered I'd have to do the input shaft. I think I'll just wait on the LU for my SRT-4 build. I'm using a '98 2.4 N/A Caravan LU tranny.

A.J.

[turbovanman²]

Lockup in 3rd is a beautiful thing until you forget to turn it off and the engine spits & sputters when coming to a stop.

Holy crap your cruise RPM is high! 75 is about 3100 for me, which I thought was nuts.

It comes out of LU when it shifts to 2nd, I wrote that above,

some info I saved. I can't credit the sources.

I'll let you guys in on a little secret. I ran a Neon 2.0 31th LU converter with my '91 TBI 2.5 413. It had 2500 stall and ran better even with broken rings. (1800 with og conv.) The Neon conv. works perfect with the Turbo engine. It has the same stall (within 200 rpm) as the non LU turbo conv. As long as you don't *engage* the LU under high boost, it should be fine for a long time. You can run "good boost" *after* it locks up only. I made a template to put the timing marks on the Neon conv. It doesn't have any in the og application. The coolest part is the Neon conv's have torrington bearings already in them. I guess Mopar had enough problems to make this upgrade. It's also easy to convert a LU to non LU VB. It's just swaping the plate with the solenoid on it to one without the solenoid. It has to a '87 and newer though. I hope this helps........
Reply With Quote

I know who wrote that, he told me to use the Neon converter but he is wrong on the stall, the Neon is 2500, the turbo LU is 4000, I can't stall the Neon converter in my van, the cams are killing me so I have to change it out and put a turbo LU with the proper stall in. As for the timing marks, that's easy, I just measured and cut a groove with a hacksaw then painted it with a yellow marker. He told me he gets 4000 rpm with his 2.2 8 valve engine.

Wow this gives me an idea. I have to swap my tranny because I broke it. I don't have a LU valve body but my girlfriends Mom's '90 TBI van does. I converted it to auto from manual and her computer doesn't turn the lock up on. So I could steal her valve body, replace it with a non-LU V.B. then I just have to get a LU torque converter. Hmmmmmm.

I have a couple of questions though. 1) I should be able to leave her LU torque converter alone, right? Like I said the computer can't turn it on anyways. 2) Am I going to have to make any modifications to her valve body coming from a TBI (originally the trans came out of a '93 TBI 2.2 Shadow) as far as shift points or anything else to make it feel like it came from a turbo car? I'm drilling a hole in the case to be able to adjust line pressure. I'm also replacing the rear band strut with a HD one.

A.J.

Cake, drill the case, 3/4" drill bit, half the hole is already there if you look from the inside. As the necessary LU soleniod and a couple valves, no other mods needed, add the LU input shaft. The wiring I am stuck on, can't find any really good diagrams but the van has the factory connector already in front of the computer, then apparantly, I need to find and the part throttle unlock solenoid and a modified trans wiring connector at the reverse and starter switch.

As for the TBI trans, you just need to swap the turbo gov and you need the turbo front and rear clutch housings, and of course, tighten up the clearances, drill the valve body line pressure hole too.

[contraption22]

It comes out of LU when it shifts to 2nd, I wrote that above,




I know who wrote that, he told me to use the Neon converter but he is wrong on the stall, the Neon is 2500, the turbo LU is 4000, I can't stall the Neon converter in my van, the cams are killing me so I have to change it out and put a turbo LU with the proper stall in. As for the timing marks, that's easy, I just measured and cut a groove with a hacksaw then painted it with a yellow marker. He told me he gets 4000 rpm with his 2.2 8 valve engine.

Factory spec fpr a turbo converter is 3100-3200. 4000? No. It's no wonder you were slipping so much on the highway.

[turbovanman²]

Factory spec fpr a turbo converter is 3100-3200. 4000? No. It's no wonder you were slipping so much on the highway.

3500 is factory spec for a turbo from what I understand and don't forget, a TC's rating can be altered by more power, so if you have a stock engine that stalls at say 3500, then you make more power, you'll raise the stall speed.

Slip is not my issue, even with the LU, I seem to be way above norm?

[black86glhs]

You phuckers can't read. A.J. was saying take the valve body out of the TBI van(with the LU) and put it in his van(without LU). Not take the whole trans out and switch them.
The part about changing the input shaft for a LU one is correct.

[glhs0426]

The original LU converter in my 92 T1 was 3500 after the engine rebuild, 3200 with the 200,000mi worn out engine. Still going strong after 300,000. I can't believe it.

John

[A.J.]

You phuckers can't read. A.J. was saying take the valve body out of the TBI van(with the LU) and put it in his van(without LU). Not take the whole trans out and switch them.
The part about changing the input shaft for a LU one is correct.

Ya I wanted a quick way to a LU trans but I'm not pulling the the one out of my g/f Mom's van for the input shaft. I'm just gonna wait for the SRT-4 with the LU.

A.J.

[turbovanman²]

You phuckers can't read. A.J. was saying take the valve body out of the TBI van(with the LU) and put it in his van(without LU). Not take the whole trans out and switch them.
The part about changing the input shaft for a LU one is correct.

Fine, but he still has to take the turbo one apart,

Ya I wanted a quick way to a LU trans but I'm not pulling the the one out of my g/f Mom's van for the input shaft. I'm just gonna wait for the SRT-4 with the LU.

A.J.

I have one if you need it.

[A.J.]

Fine, but he still has to take the turbo one apart,

The turbo one is apart. I did this today.

I have one if you need it.

I appreciate the offer but I need to get this together as soon as possible. I 2nd day aired the rear band strut. The paper front pump to case gasket will be here Tuesday. Nobody in the Phoenix area that I deal with had one, even the dealer. Besides, this trans is only going to be in my van for a few months. No need to be taking money away from my SRT-4 project.

A.J.

[bakes]

Get some rare earth magnets from old hard drives and put them in the pan they make the stock ones look real weak.

[86Shelby]

Slip is not my issue, even with the LU, I seem to be way above norm?

I went and looked at the gearing chart on Gary's site and realized that I have the tallest gearing available in a 413. 3rd gear in my trans is practically the same ratio as a 555 in 5th; 2.74 vs 2.73. I bet your cruise rpm is due to having a higher ratio final drive.

I do have a tip from experience, do not throw a N/A lu converter on a turbo engine(mine was misboxed with a turbo PN). 2200 rpm is just not enough to get the car rolling quickly, nor will it spool in a reasonable amount of time. I really need to get a turbo conveter to make the car fun again...

[Mr overkill]

glad you finally did it simon told you it was a world of a diff i run on the highway locked up with my lower transfers at 75mph around 2500rpm

[turbovanman²]

I went and looked at the gearing chart on Gary's site and realized that I have the tallest gearing available in a 413. 3rd gear in my trans is practically the same ratio as a 555 in 5th; 2.74 vs 2.73. I bet your cruise rpm is due to having a higher ratio final drive.

I do have a tip from experience, do not throw a N/A lu converter on a turbo engine(mine was misboxed with a turbo PN). 2200 rpm is just not enough to get the car rolling quickly, nor will it spool in a reasonable amount of time. I really need to get a turbo conveter to make the car fun again...

Yeah, my old setup had the 2.6 FD overall but still screamed, but wanted a bit more pep around town, the 3.05 seems to be the best of both worlds.

Yeah, I can't spool the turbo at the track, its fine though around town etc, no complaints.

glad you finally did it simon told you it was a world of a diff i run on the highway locked up with my lower transfers at 75mph around 2500rpm

Wish mine would be that low!

[black86glhs]

Fine, but he still has to take the turbo one apart,




I have one if you need it.

Your correct, but why do double the work if not needed, that was all I was saying.
A 2.5T with a mitsu would love the neon converter/413 combo, IMO. Quick spool of the mitsu and the converter would seem to go well on paper.
I don't see a "true" S60 liking it(sorry, had to Simon).