Is there any difference in the PT or SRT lifters from any other 2.4 lifter? I'm putting a set of liters from a '97 Stratus in my Daytona tomorrow, cause the stockers are shot. Just wondering if those are good, or if I should try to fit some SRT-4 lifters for it.
The 2.4 Stratus lifters don't have a hole in the tip, they are solid like the stockers. Are the ones w/ holes in the top the upgrade lifters, or stock on SRT's and PT?
They went to the updated lifters (with the hole) in 98 so that 97 wont have the right ones. After 98 everything is the same.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
yep, gotta have the "hole".
HIJACK! Don't you need washers to make them work as well? What makes 2.4 lifters better than ours?
yes you need washers/spacer. The "hole" in the top is a bleed valve. So when air enters the lifter housing it's bled off and the valve closes keeping the lifters full of oil and not air. Air compresses, oil does not so the lifters stay pumped up and keep the followers on the cam shaft and help the valves open to their full potential. If there's air in there the followers won't follow the cam and can damage it, or when the lobe pushes the follower down the lifter will compress and the valve won't open all the way.
I love learning new stuffwhat size washer
Great info! Ive been needing lifter for my NY, and have found a few "older" 2.4's in yards but didnt know when they went to the newer style. Do you have to pull the cams to get these out? What tools do you need?
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...highlight=shimOriginally Posted by Bardo
I love learning new stuff
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
I didn't see a size for the washers
.600 OD should work, the lifters are .624 OD at the body, but the bottoms are slightly smaller. Also there is a slight lip at the bottom of the bore.
Contact "The Pope" and he'll send you what you need for ease or there's a thread on TD.com with info on where to buy them.
Mmmmmm, same or slightly less than the lifter diameter, durr,
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Did mine tonight, found that one 2.4 head in my stash that had the late-model lifters w/ the hole in them. I went to Home Depot and bought a pack of #10 washers and 2 packs of 1/4" washers (less washers in each pack of the 1/4"). The #10 washer fits inside the slight step at the bottom, and the 1/4" fits the main lifter bore nicely. I put the #10 washer in the bottom to keep the 1/4" washers from jamming into that step under pressure and becoming permanently installed in the head
The lifters I used are out of a Stratus engine, can't remember what year but somewhere between '98 and '01. In each lifter bore, I dropped one #10 washer in the bottom, and two 1/4" washers on top of it. This put the tip of the new lifter level w/ the tip of the stock lifters. Works great.
When I first cranked it up, it had a big miss, like a valve wasn't closing fully or something. I went and cleaned up the valve cover and came back to pull the lifters out again and remove a washer in each, then I decided to try it again. Fired right up on all 4 cyl's and worked great thereafter. So, anyone that does this and has a miss the first time you crank it, don't assume the washers are wrong, it may just have to settle in a bit. Also, it takes a little bit for all the air to bleed out of the lifters. I had to let it warm up, then drove it down the street mildly, then hammered it coming back. Pulled in the driveway and got out and listened, valves were all quiet.
you don't really want the tips to be level with the stock lifters, they should sit slightly below as the valve in the 2.4 lifters cuts the radius of the tip off. You want it so the follower sits at the same height. hard to explain.
I understand what you're saying, I noticed that also and set them accordingly. I guess I should have said put the rocker at the same height
Well, I can still hear them ticking slightly, not sure yet if they need another washer under them or if it's related to my oil pressure issue. How much pressure is required for them to work properly? I have 25-30 psi at 2k rpm, about 5 psi at idle, with the engine hot and 10w30 oil. Haven't checked yet if I can hear them w/ the engine cold.
5psi is not much
I agree
I almost recommend dropping the pan and supplying oil into the motor via sending unit port and see were the motor is bleeding from inside. (shouldn't be running when doing this test)
Anybody know the thickness of the required spacer washer? I've heard the ones being sent out by the vatican are not exaclty top notch quality. I'd like to buy or make some quality flat ground washers.
Mike Marra
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