Group 31 batt in stock location?

[Juggy]

my battery is too tall, but i just got terminal connecters with plastic covers! =)

if i ever figure out how to add a battery to the back, i'll probably move that one out back and get a regular battery for under the hood.

To put batteries in the back you just run another wire from the alternator back? or can you just connect it to the front battery? i'm so confused by what i'd need to run...

run a line from the alternator to the rear battery. make sure there is a 150? amp fuse in line close to the alternator

[JDAWG]

you really shouldnt run 2 different types of battery, I have seen it done but I wouldnt, really you shouldnt even run an older and a newer battery, you should get 2 with the same date code, again I have seen it done and it worked fine but there is a chance that one cold draw off the other killing one of them

[prepared]

Optima batteries are poop

You have the right idea, Deka Intimidator all the way, a Sears Platinum is a relabeled Odyssey, great battery also. Why not just add a second battery out back? If you have amps in there your wire is already there, dont forget the bigger alt and big 3.
A group 34 should fit no problems or a 9A78DT should too. A 9A34M has the wing nut posts so you can add wires easily without cutting factory stuff, and a 9A78DT has dual posts so you can add wires to the side posts without cutting factory stuff. I have had a Deka Intimidator 9A78DT in 3 different cars (daytona, caravan, intrepid) for about 4-5 years now and it still goes strong, about to add a 9A31 to the back.
Got my 9A31 Deka Int from here, they are sold out but they have some 34s and 9A78DTs left.
http://rebirthauto.com/absorbedglassmatagmbattery.aspx

I KNEW JDawg would understand. I'm overkilling my electrical for 1500-2000 watts in case (or, actually, for WHEN) I decide I need to upgrade.

The price on that 9A78DT is AMAZING. Ordering NOW.

Don't want to put a Deka 31 in the back with a lead acid in front. I don't think that would be a good idea at all.

Hit every welding shop in town this weekend and found NO 1/0 welding cable. *sigh* Guess I have to order that, too.

I would get a 9A78DT up front, leave the factory wires, add all your extras to the side posts, and then 2 34s to the back, how much power are you going to be running? The place is in florida and I live in MD, shipping on the 9A31 was about $40 and its about 60lbs so that give you an idea for shipping.

[prepared]

WARNING!!

I see some possible SAFETY HAZARDS in this thread.

A battery is a POWER SOURCE. You cannot turn it off. Whether it is in the front or the back, it is a SOURCE OF POWER YOU CAN'T TURN OFF. If you run a cable from the front battery to the back battery or from your alt to your back battery, PUT A FUSE AT THE BACK BATTERY.

I've seen it too many times. Front batter->fuse->20' of wire->back battery. Somewhere along the wire it shorts out. The front fuse blows, the back battery discharges until the car burns down.

[JDAWG]

2 AGM should be fine with the bigger alternator and the Big 3 done, Im running 2000w rms right now (or was till I blew my sub lol) but with the Big 2 done (alt to batt and batt to ground I still have to do block to ground) 160amp alt and a 9A78DT I sometimes dropped down to 11.9 really hammering on it, with the other battery put in and the block to ground wire installed I think I will be ok. I tested a bunch of locations on top the engine with my fluke but could find a good low resistance spot so I have to jack up the car and do it on the bottom where the factory ground is. On the Daytona I grounded the block in one spot and also redid the manifold to firewall ground and just that with the Deka battery added I picked up a full volt at idle. The stock electrical on these cars is terrible. This is where I buy my cable in 50ft rolls
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-0-WELDING-CABL...4#ht_500wt_916
Its super flexy and has a dual jacket. Great price too.
Here is another idea I didnt get to try out to make sure it works, get one of these
http://cpgenerator.com/voltageregulators.html
About half way down the page is an adjustable that you can set max to 15.1v, I dont see why it wouldnt work, same as bypassing the computer when it dies.

[prepared]

I ought this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I don't think I'll need 50' so...


On the voltage reg... how much voltage can the stock electronics handle? Would 15v cause problems with the SBEC?

[89FerrariShelby]

that's enough to scare me off. Guess i just need to determine a way to figure out the battery working as is....good luck prepared...i'm sure you're better off than i'd ever be.

[JDAWG]

alot of guys run 15v, only thing that scares me is the old wiring, i was going to give it a shot, but atleast if you voltage is hangin kind of low you can turn it up a little bit, in the winter time it should be a lil higher anyways, I meausred my daytona at 14.6 one time with all the upgrades in the winter time

Im always working on different cars so its nice to have the wire hangin around, who knows when the price of copper is going to shoot back up