Want to Rewire my fuel pump

[1966 dart wagon]

Car is a 89 daytona 2.5 with turbo II stuff, walbro 255 pump.

I've been putting this off for quite a while and I think I'm going to finally do it, I want to make my fuel pump run of a relay that will make it get direct battery voltage, allowing my walbro to pump more fuel.

I was looking through another good site for info:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ecu/smec-1988-t2.html

And couldn't find what output triggers the fuel pump. My second question was, the other wire coming off of the fuel pump pigtail is ground correct, dumb question but just making sure, would you guys just leave this wiring alone or run it to a new ground using a bigger wire, I was going to use 10g to power the pump probably just use 10g for ground if I do this.

[shadow88]

I would think if you're maxing out your pump, then sure, sounds like a great idea. If I were to go through that much hassle, I'd run my own wiring to a toggle switch in the dash for simplicity.

[1966 dart wagon]

Well thats also part of the issue, I'm going lean, assuming I have ANOTHER bad walbro, so this is a last resort, I do still have to check fuel pressure as soon as I buy another gauge, but I know this is a good upgrade and why not.

[shadow88]

I heard it's very popular amongst the faster srt-4's as they seem to drop quite a bit of voltage along the way through various connectors.

[butchsuppe]

I did just that, only the relay powers the injectors as well. BUT I adapted a power disturbution box out of a 93 Neon to the car. It's wired so the ASD relay controls the fuel pump / injectors relay as well as another relay for the coil and O2 sensor. I also ran an overlay wire to the pump.

[tryingbe]

Going lean where? What does this car have? Ported head or huge turbo? Have you tested the fuel pressure in boost?

[1966 dart wagon]

Going lean where? What does this car have? Ported head or huge turbo? Have you tested the fuel pressure in boost?

I can't since my gauge broke on me, Right now its at 15psi and goes lean almost right away on WOT, did this same exact thing when the pump tested back about a year ago, figures my luck though. Doesnt matter since I've wanted to do this for quite some time just havn't. So can anyone tell me what wire it have to use in order to trigger the relay?

[1966 dart wagon]

well bought a new fp gauge last night and tested it today. Had the car running it was just under 50 psi then when i removed the vac line to the fpr it jumped to 55psi, all is good so far.

Well I had the pump running and squeezed the return line and it jumped up to 70 psi or so, so fuel pump is junk again....

I want to get a vaccum gauge on the fpr to check it, is there a way this could be throwing off my reading, also I went out and let the gauge set on the car for a while not running, it held pressure too.

[Juggy]

well bought a new fp gauge last night and tested it today. Had the car running it was just under 50 psi then when i removed the vac line to the fpr it jumped to 55psi, all is good so far.

Well I had the pump running and squeezed the return line and it jumped up to 70 psi or so, so fuel pump is junk again....

I want to get a vaccum gauge on the fpr to check it, is there a way this could be throwing off my reading, also I went out and let the gauge set on the car for a while not running, it held pressure too.

is that not a good thing when you get more pressure after squeezing the return line????? if you did NOT get any extra pressure, then i'd assume there be a prob

are u running a TII cal on a 2.5?

[1966 dart wagon]

is that not a good thing when you get more pressure after squeezing the return line????? if you did NOT get any extra pressure, then i'd assume there be a prob

are u running a TII cal on a 2.5?

with the pump running you should be able to squeeze the return line and get 100or so psi, i was getting 70psi.

Im running the correct cal, actually turbonator for a 2.5 mtx

[1966 dart wagon]

bump

I still want to rewire my fuel pump and still cant find which wires in the engine bay feed the fp.

[zin]

bump

I still want to rewire my fuel pump and still cant find which wires in the engine bay feed the fp.

I can't recall off the top of my head what color wire it is on the ASD relay, other than to say it is NOT the blue one! (that one is the power for the inj, coil, etc.), BUT, you can probe the connector with a computer safe test light to see which one shows a ground for a few seconds when the key is turned to "run"... That will be the "signal/activation" ground the computer sends out to control the ASD relay, and should do be suitable to trigger your new fuel pump relay (connect to pin# 85, pin# 86 to ign switched 12V, pin# 30 to +on Batt etc, and pin#87 to the + side of the pump), use 12 gauge or better wire to minimize voltage drop...

Mike

[1966 dart wagon]

I can't recall off the top of my head what color wire it is on the ASD relay, other than to say it is NOT the blue one! (that one is the power for the inj, coil, etc.), BUT, you can probe the connector with a computer safe test light to see which one shows a ground for a few seconds when the key is turned to "run"... That will be the "signal/activation" ground the computer sends out to control the ASD relay, and should do be suitable to trigger your new fuel pump relay (connect to pin# 85, pin# 86 to ign switched 12V, pin# 30 to +on Batt etc, and pin#87 to the + side of the pump), use 12 gauge or better wire to minimize voltage drop...

Mike

I wasnt even sure which relay is the asd one, but figured I'd have to do something like this, see what one gets power for the same amount of time as the fp. I was planning on using 10g wire, thanks for the input.

[shackwrrr]

this should help

[Reaper1]

I have a few ideas running around in my head how to accomplish this, but I wan to know how people are eliminating the factory connector at the pump. I figure what's the point in running nice size wire all the way back there just so you have to run it through that crappy connector! There HAS to be a better way!

[RoadWarrior222]

Yup, you could ignore the factory wiring there, then put a couple of copper spikes on the top of the tank, and a couple of copper balls on the pump itself, use a step up DC-DC convertor and deliver power as lightning discharge through the fuel... oh and any air and fuel vapor that happened to be in the tank... but how cool would that be?

[Aries_Turbo]

I have a few ideas running around in my head how to accomplish this, but I wan to know how people are eliminating the factory connector at the pump. I figure what's the point in running nice size wire all the way back there just so you have to run it through that crappy connector! There HAS to be a better way!

the connector isnt much of an issue as is the long runs of relatively small wire.

the connector and its short leads arent going to drop much voltage at all.

Brian

[RoadWarrior222]

^^^ that's true.

I was facetiously trying to suggest, that there's probably plenty of dangerous ways of doing it, such that leaving the proven safe factory way alone is probably the best option.

But even the connector there will be somewhat "uprated" a few percent with heavier gauge wire right up to it, to sink heat into.

[Reaper1]

I get what you guys are saying, and it certainly shouldn't be attmepted in some half-----ed manner as the results could be....um....hazardous. I just figured that there are many people out there that have gone to great lengths to run nice wire to the pump and have a good mump and the right size fuel line, ect. That connector just seems to be the next thing in line for a good upgrade. :shrugs:

[Aries_Turbo]

I get what you guys are saying, and it certainly shouldn't be attmepted in some half-----ed manner as the results could be....um....hazardous. I just figured that there are many people out there that have gone to great lengths to run nice wire to the pump and have a good mump and the right size fuel line, ect. That connector just seems to be the next thing in line for a good upgrade. :shrugs:

i agree that if you are doing everything, the connector could be considered.

if i was going to the trouble of doing the connector, id want to cut everything out of the plate, weld a flat piece of steel over the entire thing and start fresh.

new larger fuel line bulkhead, 10 ga electrical bulkhead, etc.

Brian