i have a coolant leak and its leaking from between the head and block in 1 little spot
its right by one of the head bolts
could this be a lose head bolt i did use m p heads bolts
has anyone have this happen before
i have a coolant leak and its leaking from between the head and block in 1 little spot
its right by one of the head bolts
could this be a lose head bolt i did use m p heads bolts
has anyone have this happen before
How did you torque them down and what value?
Could be damaged gasket, damaged head, damaged block or bolts too loose.
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If you properly torqued the bolts down I find it hard to believe that it is due to a loose bolt.
Try retorquing them.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
ill do that and see if leaks again
What would you retorque them to? I think there's an underlying issue here.
Is it possible that there is debris at the bottom of the bolt hole? I have had to grind a bolt shorter in the past due to this.
dusty are you sure its not one of the exhaust studs leaking coolant??
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
well i loosened them all then re torque them 45 then 65 then a lil more then a quarter turn
OK, let us know how that goes... usually re-torque does NOT mean loosen them, it means snug them all up to like ~95 ft-lb
JT
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Approximately
The 65 plus a 1/4 turn is really to drive it to a dimension and take the variables of torque out, and these are torque to yeild bolts so they can yeild at or before 95... thats why they recommend not reusing them as they are supposed to stretch permanently an donly do this correctly once.
Snugging them all to 65 in sequence twice makes sure they are all similarly torqued. The 1/4 turn is designed to compressing the assembly 0.375mm more (1/4 of 1.5mm thread pitch) and final torque *usually* is very similar between them but can be off as some are 90 and some are 95, etc. The final torque for each hole depends on crap in the threads, oil on the threads, etc.
IIR the 3 little feet on the OEM washers were to ensure that the washers did not rotate on the aluminum head but instead drove the rotation (torque) to the washer/bolt head interface for consistancy.
I usually use a beam style torque wrench when I do the 1/4 turn and watch where it ends up and tell myself not to try and match them, LOL...
JT
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it still leaks ill have to get a new head gasket and head bolts
Ouch, sorry to hear man.
When you have it off, make sure the head and block are flat with a straight edge. If one is warped, no head gasket or bolts will seal it.
JT
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JOIN SDAC and your local Chapter TODAY! - SUPPORT the CLUB that supports YOUR HOBBY!
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