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Thread: Engine removal - P body

  1. #1
    Garrett booster Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Engine removal - P body

    Is there enough room to pull the engine without pulling the trans? It's an A523 manual. It looks like there is but I don't want to get half way apart and realize I can't... Been there before and it's not fun...

    TIA
    David

  2. #2
    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff contraption22's Avatar
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    Re: Engine removal - P body

    Yup, shouldn't be a problem. Taking off the crankshaft accessory drive pulley frees up alot of space.

    Although, it is easier to take them out as an assembly, dropping them out from the bottom.
    Mike Marra
    1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
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  3. #3
    Hybrid booster Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Engine removal - P body

    But you have to support the trans and it can turn into a headache.

    IMO (and this is hotly contested) I find it faster to drop the k-member and drop the motor/trans to the ground. then raise the front of the car and slide the motor out.

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    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff contraption22's Avatar
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    Re: Engine removal - P body

    Quote Originally Posted by prepared View Post
    But you have to support the trans and it can turn into a headache.

    IMO (and this is hotly contested) I find it faster to drop the k-member and drop the motor/trans to the ground. then raise the front of the car and slide the motor out.
    ^^^ agreed!
    Mike Marra
    1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
    Project Log:
    http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=

  5. #5
    Garrett booster Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Engine removal - P body

    I don't have a lift at my disposal anymore otherwise that would have been my first thought. How do you guys lift the car? Think I can hook the engine crane to the core support (or there abouts) and use that?

  6. #6
    Hybrid booster Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Engine removal - P body

    Quote Originally Posted by cobra2411 View Post
    I don't have a lift at my disposal anymore otherwise that would have been my first thought. How do you guys lift the car? Think I can hook the engine crane to the core support (or there abouts) and use that?
    Thats what I do. With the K and the engine/tran out, the front is pretty light. I hook the cherry picker to the front engine mount location at the bottom of the core support.

    I also have a little 4-caster cart that the motor/trans sits on when I lower it. It rolls right out the side through the wheel well.

    I've also used a piece of 3/4 plywood with a rope tied to it. Drop the motor/tran on the wood and tug the board and all out with the garden tractor.

  7. #7
    Garrett booster Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Engine removal - P body

    I'll do that then. I want to clean up and weld the seams on the K frame anyway...

    Actually I think I may get two carts. I'll setup the 2.4 with my spare trans on one and use the other for the 2.5... Then I can slide one out and the other in for mock-up... It'll actually look like I know what I'm doing...

  8. #8
    turbo addict
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    Re: Engine removal - P body

    I tried out the bottom. I still dont see how it is easier, its harder to see what is going on and once you get it "out" now you have to get it out from under the car. I just hook a chain to the upper right a/c mount and the ground on the right front of the head. These points do a good job of balancing the engine and it comes right out the top. You just have to pull the front of the transmission forward to go around the right side mount.
    Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]​engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.

  9. #9
    turbo addict
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    Re: Engine removal - P body

    I can have a complete assembly out the top in a hour. Its not hard. You do have to pull them at angle to get them out. I dont know why you would go through the work to drop them out the bottom, they come out the top plenty easy.

  10. #10
    Hybrid booster Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Engine removal - P body

    for you top-un-loader guys...

    I have one of those cranky things that tilts the engine on the hoist.

    Do you use one?

    It has four attachment chains. What is your preferred attachment points?

    I'll probably be pulling a motor/trans this weekend. Thought maybe I'd give it a try.

  11. #11
    turbo addict
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    Re: Engine removal - P body

    I just found 2 spots and hooked up a chain and it worked out fine. If you did use the balancer then there are 2 holes on the drivers side of the head you can use and there is the bolts for the AC compressor on the passenger side. I just take the front mount/alternator and their brackets off the front of the engine. Then once you pick it up slide the whole thing towards the core support like 4 in then take the transmission and twist the engine in the bay so the tranny clears the drivers side mount. Ive done it every time with the hood installed no problem, Just pump, move back, then repeat.
    Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]​engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.

  12. #12
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Vigo's Avatar
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    Re: Engine removal - P body

    I always go out the bottom when dropping the engine and trans together. It is by far the easiest way, and i NEVER EVER drop a k-frame (L-body people might have a different opinion on that but im talking k-cars).

    Its possible to do the engine itself out the top pretty easily. Its a LOT harder with a manual (moreso going back in than taking it out) because of the clutch/input shaft alignment, but as said in the first reply, take off the crank pulley and passenger motor mount first and it goes ok.

    Taking the whole assembly engine/trans out the top is something ive only done once, and i found it to be extremely pointless because it was so much more delicate than just going out the bottom, plus i dont like having the weight up high because i have encountered both failing hydraulic cylinders AND a hoist just falling over. Both sucked.

    Dont push the red button.You hear me?

  13. #13
    Garrett booster Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Engine removal - P body

    I dont remove the k frame either and it takes probably about 30 minutes with air tools and a lift to drop both out the bottom. Without the lift i kinda like prepared's idea, though ive never done it that way and it seems like it has its risk factors.

  14. #14
    Hybrid booster Turbo Mopar Contributor Darkapollo's Avatar
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    Re: Engine removal - P body

    I dont use a leveler... I guess ive pulled so many engines out of the same car that I know exactly how much slack each side of the chain should have to be at the right angle to drop in.. I use a 6' length of 650lb test chain (it weighs about 50lb!) and I kinda know how it needs to be attached to come out the top and go in the top..Would be nice to have a leveler, but the one we had would skip teeth some times and it got real dangerous real fast..

  15. #15
    Garrett booster Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Engine removal - P body

    I ended up going out the top with it. Engine and trans. Took all the mounts off and had enough room to swing it.

    I'm going to put the 2.4 in from the bottom most likely. I was looking at it and with the k-frame and struts out I'll only have to lift the body another 18-20" from where it's at. I don't have it that high right now at all, it's sitting with the wheels maybe 2" off the ground...

    The K frame is coming off to get cleaned up more then anything else. Once everything is mocked up and is ready to go together for the last time I may put the K in then the motor...

    Guess it's the old school in me to go out from the top. It's the only way you can do the old muscle cars. Well you could pull the body off the frame but that's a little drastic for a motor swap.

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