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Thread: cold air

  1. #1
    Garrett booster
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    Question cold air

    i have a 88 shadow es turbo i want to gain as much hp as i can with out changing major components i.e enging tranny, i know that cold dense air = hp so i want to run colder for more hp what are some things i can do will a diesel innercooler work ? where should i pipe a cold air intake to the lower part of air dam or upper? if any body knows of any lil tricks to gain hp let me know but im restoring it at same tym so i dont wanna go hog wild and end up with a non street legal drag car

  2. #2
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    Re: cold air

    Three things. Add a intercooler, the larger the better. Add a manual boost controller, set to ab out 14psi. Then find a 88 T2 ecu. You will have to add a charge temp sensor and 33pph injectors instead of the 27's your car came with. Hands down the best power gain for the buck on a 88 t1 car. I did a 88 T2 ecu to my shadow es back in the day and could not believe the power difference. The 88 t1 ecu is severely neutered. You will think the ecu shouldn't matter that much, but it does. Trust me!

  3. #3
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    Re: cold air

    I also do not reccomend adding a stock T2 IC/radiator. They headsoak badly. Every car I have replaced the stock IC with a FMIC the power gains were well worth it. That, and its much more consistant power wise.

    Here is a link to my car, and how I mounted the small side mount IC http://www.cardomain.com/ride/633941

  4. #4
    See me ride out of the sunset... Turbo Mopar Staff BadAssPerformance's Avatar
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    Re: cold air

    Cold air is good... better exhaust helps a ton too.

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  5. #5
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    Re: cold air

    Bigger, efficient IC-diesel IC's are ok but regular IC's are better.

    2.5 or 3" turbo back.

    Good tune-up with a good coil or good stock coil and good wires, IE mine or MSD.

    Locate the air inlet anywhere up front is fine, the lower it is, the more crap you will suck up but that simply means cleaning the air filter more often, big deal.

    180 thermostat with a 1 1/16" bleed hole, add water wetter or equivelant and a manual fan switch.

    Get your stock computer chipped and a new cal,
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
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  6. #6
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    Re: cold air

    This link describes a great install. Back when I owned Angelo's old 90 Shadow ES I followed these instructions and it worked awesome...in fact I'm in the process of doing the same thing to my turbowagon! http://www.moparhead.50megs.com/intercooler.htm
    [FONT="Arial Black"]Paul[/FONT] [B][SIZE="1"]US ARMY INFANTRY VETERAN[/B] 1995 Dodge Stealth R/T White DOHC 5 speed 1994 Dodge Stealth R/T Red DOHC 5 speed 1992 Dodge Daytona IROC, Blue TI 5 speed (2) 1992 Dodge Daytona IROC, Red TI auto 1991 Dodge Spirit R/T, Red (project) 1989 Shelby CSX-VNT #382 1989 Dodge Shadow ES, White TI auto 1987 Daytona Shelby Z, White TII 1987 Chrysler T&C wagon, Tan TII auto 1985 Dodge Lancer ES, Bronze TI auto 1982 Wife, White[/SIZE] [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  7. #7
    Hybrid booster Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: cold air

    Quote Originally Posted by blk86trbo View Post
    This link describes a great install. Back when I owned Angelo's old 90 Shadow ES I followed these instructions and it worked awesome...in fact I'm in the process of doing the same thing to my turbowagon! http://www.moparhead.50megs.com/intercooler.htm
    In that install, is the actual metal bumper removed and not re-installed?

  8. #8
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    Red face Re: cold air

    Quote Originally Posted by shadowfromhell View Post
    i also do not reccomend adding a stock t2 ic/radiator. They headsoak badly. Every car i have replaced the stock ic with a fmic the power gains were well worth it. That, and its much more consistant power wise.

    Here is a link to my car, and how i mounted the small side mount ic http://www.cardomain.com/ride/633941
    i thank you for your info the shadow was already converted to a t2 and i nd to add the iat yet il take a look at ur car thanks a ton my pics are on myspace if you think lookin at it will help you help me take a look..

  9. #9
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    Re: cold air

    Quote Originally Posted by badassperformance View Post
    cold air is good... Better exhaust helps a ton too.
    how much bigger exhaust can i go without compromising boost?

  10. #10
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    Re: cold air

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
    bigger, efficient ic-diesel ic's are ok but regular ic's are better.

    2.5 or 3" turbo back.

    Good tune-up with a good coil or good stock coil and good wires, ie mine or msd.

    Locate the air inlet anywhere up front is fine, the lower it is, the more crap you will suck up but that simply means cleaning the air filter more often, big deal.

    180 thermostat with a 1 1/16" bleed hole, add water wetter or equivelant and a manual fan switch.

    Get your stock computer chipped and a new cal,
    thanks whats water wetter?? And 3" is good allthe way back?

  11. #11
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    Re: cold air

    You cant put 3inch on the car without changing the turbo. You cant remove the muffler, anything. If you do you WILL NOT be able to control boost. Trust me. I put side exit on mine and couldnt even get on it untill I swapped it to a t3 turbo.

  12. #12
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: cold air

    Quote Originally Posted by t2shadow View Post
    how much bigger exhaust can i go without compromising boost?
    No such thing as too big with a turbo engine but if you have a Mitsu, boost gets harder to control.

    Quote Originally Posted by t2shadow View Post
    thanks whats water wetter?? And 3" is good allthe way back?
    If your planing on going bigger down the road, turbo that is, 3" is a good way to go. 3 inch is also harder to route properly so it doesn't bang or rub, so for a daily driver and mild mods, a 2.5 inch system is fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by ShadowFromHell View Post
    You cant put 3inch on the car without changing the turbo. You cant remove the muffler, anything. If you do you WILL NOT be able to control boost. Trust me. I put side exit on mine and couldnt even get on it untill I swapped it to a t3 turbo.
    Why not, you put a 3 inch system on a 2.5 inch dp, not sure if a 3 inch dp will fit a mitsu.

    "Turbosmart" MBC's are really good at controlling boost, I did a G body with an IC, 2.5 inch cat back and it would only spike 2 psi.
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  13. #13
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    Exclamation Re: cold air

    Quote Originally Posted by prepared View Post
    In that install, is the actual metal bumper removed and not re-installed?
    the metel bumper has pulled 3/4 the way out u can slide it back in but it pops out easily

  14. #14
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    Re: cold air

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
    No such thing as too big with a turbo engine but if you have a Mitsu, boost gets harder to control.



    If your planing on going bigger down the road, turbo that is, 3" is a good way to go. 3 inch is also harder to route properly so it doesn't bang or rub, so for a daily driver and mild mods, a 2.5 inch system is fine.



    Why not, you put a 3 inch system on a 2.5 inch dp, not sure if a 3 inch dp will fit a mitsu.

    "Turbosmart" MBC's are really good at controlling boost, I did a G body with an IC, 2.5 inch cat back and it would only spike 2 psi.
    Sounds like you have never played with a mitsu turbo. Its not going to matter what kind of boost control you have. Even running a vac line straight to the WG, its going to creep like crazy. As soon as you open up the exhaust the turbo will out run the wastegate. Been there done that.

  15. #15
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: cold air

    Quote Originally Posted by ShadowFromHell View Post
    Sounds like you have never played with a mitsu turbo. Its not going to matter what kind of boost control you have. Even running a vac line straight to the WG, its going to creep like crazy. As soon as you open up the exhaust the turbo will out run the wastegate. Been there done that.
    Yep, your right, the G body with a Mitsu I just told you about isn't a real car, its fictitous,
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  16. #16
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    Re: cold air

    What year is thew G-body? maybe the 89+ 2.5" swing valve eliminated the creeping from the 88 2.25" turbos have? Was it a 2.2 or 2.5 g-body? I HAVE a 88 shadow ES (just like the poster) and cut my exhaust off. I couldn't get on the car or it would instantly hit overboost. I tried everything, grainger style MBC's, bleeds, and even a straight vac line. Nothing seemed to affect it. If I remember right it would hold my MBC's 12psi until 4k or or so, and then just skyrocket. Didn't change anything else but went to a T2 turbo, and it went away. Same MBC.

  17. #17
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    Re: cold air

    My buddies 91 GTC 5spd doesn't creep according to him with a 2.5" FWD setup and a magnaflow.

  18. #18
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    Re: cold air

    Quote Originally Posted by blk86trbo View Post
    This link describes a great install. Back when I owned Angelo's old 90 Shadow ES I followed these instructions and it worked awesome...in fact I'm in the process of doing the same thing to my turbowagon! http://www.moparhead.50megs.com/intercooler.htm
    Quote Originally Posted by prepared View Post
    In that install, is the actual metal bumper removed and not re-installed?
    I ran a cummins in my daytona, and a buddies 91 shadow. don't cut the holes that big. Slide it to the bottom of the grill and mount it to the upper bumper bolts (get longer bolts) with some strap aluminum.


    I gained 300 more rpm to play with at the track on the top end and the power was much more consistent vs. the stock setup. But the I/C is a huge POS compared to my Treadstone i/c. Mainly because it's extruded tube and the inlets to each tube sucks. A cheap ebay i/c is probably better.

  19. #19
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    Re: cold air

    Quote Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2 View Post
    My buddies 91 GTC 5spd doesn't creep according to him with a 2.5" FWD setup and a magnaflow.
    Well, I wonder if the larger SV didn't fix the problem? Would be cool if it did. I have a few mitsus that are good, but haven't had any desire to use them after my first bad experience with them.

    Either way, this guy has the smaller swingvalve, and I DO NOT recommend opening up the exhaust.

  20. #20
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    Re: cold air

    That's me with the 91 GTC and it did not creep at all with the stock Mitsu, factory Spirit R/T intercooler setup and a FWD full 2.5" exhaust and straight through Magnaflow. After all of the horror stories I was nervous to run it like that but was planning to swap for a Garrett soon after anyway so said what the heck. The Garrett is on there now but the Mitsu did fine for awhile. It spooled insanely fast but always stayed where I set the grainger.

    I also had an 88 Shadow ES that I installed a Supra intercooler on and ran 14psi through the stock exhaust and never bounced off cutout. The guy I sold it to hacked the exhaust off after the cat and made a side exit and he still didn't have any issues. That was with the stock 2.25" swing valve and cat though, so still plenty of restriction.
    1991 Chrysler Lebaron GTC convertible - a568 - 15psi FWD Stage 3, FMIC, TII Garrett turbo, two of the big ones

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