8v serpentine belt

[135sohc]

Its far from done and still has alot of fabrication left to go but here's my results so far...







Notes: I am using the T3 crank & waterpump pulleys. PS pump pulley and alternator pulleys are common 6 rib pulleys from newer chrysler engines like the 3.3 V6 and 3.5 V6. Idler/tensioner pulleys being used (only 1 is shown) are standard pieces instock at any parts store. Idler pulley location will require some slight cutting of the bracket to remove the external ribbing from where the original a/c tensioner arm bolted to. A/C compressor will be using a clutch/pulley assembly from a 3.3 minivan since they used the same style denso 10 series compressor with a 6 rib belt. Compressor will be relocated slightly forward & inboard on the existing cast bracket using some angle iron extenders to bring it inline with the rest of the drive assembly.

And the most importent piece... The tensioner assembly will be a simple jack screw assembly functioning the same as an 8v alternator/wp belt tensioner. Located on the face of the ps pump bracket and pulling up on the belt.

[Reaper1]

I know it's still under construction, but there's not enough belt contact with the crank pulley or the water pump pulley. I would put an idler for the PS pump and do some rerouting on the alternator/WP/alt side. It's kinda funny I've been pondering something similar recently! LOL

Good job so far!

[135sohc]

The crank pulley is just sitting/hanging there loose, not actually pressed onto the crankshaft so its sitting alot higher that it should be.

Tensioner pulley will be going directly under the upper belt span coming off the ps pump pulling up on the lower span. That pulley will have probably 70+% belt contact area.

[turbovanman²]

Looks good, but I would put an idler over by the power steering pump, keep it from bouncing around on that large length of belt.

[BlueShadow]

I wouldn't be so worried about the lack of contact at the water pump as with the altenator. They are supposed to be around 3/4 the way around, which is pretty much needed.
Looks good tho, cant wait to see a finished product

[135sohc]

Looks good, but I would put an idler over by the power steering pump, keep it from bouncing around on that large length of belt.

I'm following the T3 routing/layout and there is no idler over there.

I wouldn't be so worried about the lack of contact at the water pump as with the altenator. They are supposed to be around 3/4 the way around, which is pretty much needed.
Looks good tho, cant wait to see a finished product

more would be better but going by the stock T3 setup the contact area is from the 3 to 6 position.

[BadAssPerformance]

Interesting... never thought about doing that.

[Pat]

What's the advantage?

[135sohc]

What's the advantage?

One belt running the whole show, greatly reducing the number of tools required to service it. Another reason being the a/c V-belt especially on cars running 134a has a strong tendancy to slip and burn if its not tensioned perfectly. I bet 98% of the cars here dont have functional a/c anymore but I'm a holdout and its not going away

[ShelGame]

One belt running the whole show, greatly reducing the number of tools required to service it. Another reason being the a/c V-belt especially on cars running 134a has a strong tendancy to slip and burn if its not tensioned perfectly. I bet 98% of the cars here dont have functional a/c anymore but I'm a holdout and its not going away

I can't seem to keep the belt tight on my van. Otherwise, the A/C works.

I was thinking of doing this as well. I think it would also make it easier to install a supercharger. I've been dreaming of swapping out the turbo for a S/C (but keeping the EFI intake and intercooler). I would need a serp to drive the S/C...

[turbovanman²]

I'm following the T3 routing/layout and there is no idler over there.

Your right to a point but the PS is moved further away, giving more length vs the TIII.

[Darkapollo]

How do you propose to keep the clamps stationary on the pullys? or are they going to be attached to the belt?

Also, what effects, if any, do you forsee with the belt being looped and clamped?

Nice work though! I was thinking of a way to do this a while back, but gave up on the idea

[135sohc]

What is the span distance on a T3 from those two points ? I just measured my setup and its less than 1ft (11.5") I'm not arguing but the span on a T3 doesnt look like its any less but pictures can be hard to put a scale to and get an accurate judgement with.
If worst comes to worst I could always swing the pump in some and remember that like I said before, nothing in that picture is accurate for scaling purposes. The waterpump and alternator pulleys are really the only ones in the solid position where they would need to be.
That idler pulley bolt is just shoved into a hole on that bracket. It still need to come over and down atleast another inch.

[turbovanman²]

What is the span distance on a T3 from those two points ? I just measured my setup and its less than 1ft (11.5") I'm not arguing but the span on a T3 doesnt look like its any less but pictures can be hard to put a scale to and get an accurate judgement with.
If worst comes to worst I could always swing the pump in some and remember that like I said before, nothing in that picture is accurate for scaling purposes. The waterpump and alternator pulleys are really the only ones in the solid position where they would need to be.
That idler pulley bolt is just shoved into a hole on that bracket. It still need to come over and down atleast another inch.

Not sure, I can measure the Iroc I have here today sometime.

Yeah, pics can be hard to judge but it does look like yours is a bit further apart, but yeah, I am sure you could simply move the pump in a bit if you had too,