Front Seal Housing Q:

[Directconnection]

I may have asked this in the past.... but are the front seal housings (for the crank) interchangable from common block to T-III? The one I have on the current rebuild, the original owner somehow cracked it. I see the factory goes in with an endmill to remove some of that "guard" section. Everything else the same offset wise if I use this one I have from an '89 T-II? (once I mill out that little area, of course.

Also... how hard is it to find bearings for the idlers? The timing belt tensioner and idler seem ok, it's the 3" diameter stamped steel idler that has a bad bearing...

Gawd... the original owner really frigged up everything on this engine! From valves, to gasket surfaces, to crank pulley, pistons, to even warping the damn valve covers badly!

[turbovanman²]

Geez man, do a search, Right at the top of the TIII section,

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160

As for the retainer, yep, just remove that bit for the belt and your golden.

[Directconnection]

Geez man, do a search, Right at the top of the TIII section,

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160

As for the retainer, yep, just remove that bit for the belt and your golden.

No bearing info for the idler that I can see...

[turbovanman²]

No bearing info for the idler that I can see...

That's because you have to buy the whole idler, its one piece,

7.) Part numbers through Goodyear for:
Radiator hose, upper 61782
Idler pulley/Serp tensioner pulley's- 49038
Radiator hose, lower 61341
Timing belt 40206
Heater hose, heater to waterpump 63073
Serpentine belt 4060785
Heater hose, heater to engine 63275

[135sohc]

You can buy just the bearing (Napa lists it) but they cost twice what a new complete idler does...

[Directconnection]

Not talking the timing belt idler..... the stamped steel cheezy one.

BTW: what's the difference on the intermediate shaft's seal housing for a T-III to T-II? I have like 4 common block ones at my shop, and it is different than the T-III one I need to replace. Casting #s appear different, aluminum casting appears the same, but the depth of the 3 holes to bolt it to the block are different. The factory counter bored .100" down so instead of it being .375" thick, it's now .275" Is it because the head of the bolts interfere with the back side of the intermediate shaft sprocket? Everything is totally torn down at the moment so I hadn't mocked it up yet.

[135sohc]

Not talking the timing belt idler..... the stamped steel cheezy one.

The serpentine belt idler & tensioner arm pulleys ?

If so you just buy a whole new pulley for $20 and call it a day.

[Xtrempickup]

the I- shafts are all the same, TI-TIV actually i think the TIIIs are the weakest steel

[turbovanman²]

Not talking the timing belt idler..... the stamped steel cheezy one.

I edited my previous post, its in red and bold.

BTW: what's the difference on the intermediate shaft's seal housing for a T-III to T-II? I have like 4 common block ones at my shop, and it is different than the T-III one I need to replace. Casting #s appear different, aluminum casting appears the same, but the depth of the 3 holes to bolt it to the block are different. The factory counter bored .100" down so instead of it being .375" thick, it's now .275" Is it because the head of the bolts interfere with the back side of the intermediate shaft sprocket? Everything is totally torn down at the moment so I hadn't mocked it up yet.

Good question, I am using an 8 valve one but not using the stock TIII, hmmmmmmmm. I'll have to muck around, just putting my engine together.

EDIT-

Yeah, the TIII one is thinner at the bolt holes, so I would stick with that one.

[Directconnection]

I edited my previous post, its in red and bold.


EDIT-

Yeah, the TIII one is thinner at the bolt holes, so I would stick with that one.

Is that a dealer only item on #49038?

On the other thang.... my original int. shaft seal housing is poop. I'll have to take a stock common block one and counter bore the holes the same as the T-III

[Turbo3Iroc]

What housings do you need Steve? Front seal and I-shaft? I have plenty of each.

[turbovanman²]

Is that a dealer only item on #49038?

On the other thang.... my original int. shaft seal housing is poop. I'll have to take a stock common block one and counter bore the holes the same as the T-III

I guess. What's wrong with yours?

[86Shelby]

I had no issues using a random CB I-shaft seal retainer on my TIII. I didn't realize they were different, I simply went through the retainers I had on hand from other engines and picked the most cherry piece.

[turbovanman²]

I'll play around with mine and use the CB retainer with the TIII sprocket and see how close it is.

[Directconnection]

I'll play around with mine and use the CB retainer with the TIII sprocket and see how close it is.

Let me know how it works out.... before I spend some time counterboring the one I have from an 8v.

But, apparently... 86shelby didn't have any issues.

[86Shelby]

It doesn't take much time to toss in a shaft, tighten down the retainer and snug up a sprocket bolt to verify. Who knows, I may have picked a TIII piece since I had 2 or 3 off those engines. I had about 6-8 retainers sitting around.

[turbovanman²]

Ok, just tried an 8 valve retainer with the TIII aux shaft pulley, no go, it hits before it bottoms out, so if you do this, you'll wear the back of the pulley and or bolt heads and you could do what I did and wipe out the shaft and oil pump due to no freeplay.

So probably grinding off the bolt head a bit would work.

[Directconnection]

Ok, just tried an 8 valve retainer with the TIII aux shaft pulley, no go, it hits before it bottoms out, so if you do this, you'll wear the back of the pulley and or bolt heads and you could do what I did and wipe out the shaft and oil pump due to no freeplay.

So probably grinding off the bolt head a bit would work.

You need to counterbore the existing holes .100" more. The 8v piece is .375" and the T-III piece is .275"

I was able to salvage my original.... installed it on a lathe and got it indicated in within .001" before re-facing it... better than new!

[turbovanman²]

You need to counterbore the existing holes .100" more. The 8v piece is .375" and the T-III piece is .275"

I was able to salvage my original.... installed it on a lathe and got it indicated in within .001" before re-facing it... better than new!

I tested for you, I don't care, I am running my custom pulley.

Its also good info as I didn't even notice.