ive herd this idea kicked around before. some type of coupler so the dp bolts dont have to come off every time. has this been done anywere? sounds like a good idea.
ive herd this idea kicked around before. some type of coupler so the dp bolts dont have to come off every time. has this been done anywere? sounds like a good idea.
Do you mean an exhaust cut out?
You have a few options. You could have a good exhaust shop put in a header style 3 bolt connection so you could just unbolt the pipe after the down pipe.
BUT if you have a good exhaust shop that could do that, then they could just install a cut out in the DP and call it good.
You could even go as far as to get an electrically actuated cut out that opens with the flip of a switch.
clay
Clay
1986 GLH-T - Flat black......... learn it, love it, LIVE IT!
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not a cut out. instead of removing the dp bolts everytime the engine or head had to come off, cut the dp and have a coupler or something so you dont have to fight those damn bolts. take a peice of the down pipe with the turbo.
I rather take those two bolts off than taking the head out with the downpipe.
not the whole dp. just a few inches.
yeah, then you need what I was talking about, a 3 bolt "header" type flange setup. a good exhaust shop can probalby make you one, OR you can probably buy the thing through summit and have a shop install it for you.
clay
Clay
1986 GLH-T - Flat black......... learn it, love it, LIVE IT!
1988 LeBaron GTC Turbo
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ok, i understad what your talking about.
Install the bolts with "flanged nuts" and GOOD anti seize and thery are not an issue... My son and I just pulled the head off my Daughters SC today in 45 minutes... Antiseize on those bolts does wonders.. Usually the biggest pita of the whole job!!
Ken Adler....
Cars, A few (9)
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this is the "dirty way" i grind them off and toss.........works super good at junk yard.........and if you get one of those cheep ones from walmart buy two and bring an extra battery.
with the wheel type (my choice)you could even cut stubborn bolts.....wow maybe even those huge wheel nuts..........need to try that one.
deuce
Or you can buy a V band connector. I run one right off of my turbo and it's just one 13MM nut and the downpipe, O2 sensor, everything is free and clear.
Aaron Miller
Is that a custom setup that you made, or did you get something like on the ATP site?Originally Posted by 8valves
+1 for the antiseize...Originally Posted by GLHSKEN
also, if you take it apart more often they dont seize up! LOL
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Well, one could be made very easily, just cut a 3" section out of the DP and put in the junction and clamp it... but on the 30R the exhaust outlet is a direct V band connection, so you don't have a choice! They are available with a 4 bolt T3 outlet as well though for less money.Originally Posted by cordes
Aaron Miller
That is what I thought, thanks for clarifying.Originally Posted by 8valves
V-BAND!!!!!!!!!!!! I sold one exactly like this one to Jason, ask him to see it, its SWEET.
Last edited by yogurt_slinger; 11-20-2009 at 08:13 AM.
Thats a pretty nice SV!
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what about just cutting the downpipe at a straight section and using a stainless band clamp? i have quite a few of those in my exhaust for easy removal.
even if you cut it as it starts to go under the car, when you take off the clamp, you can swivel the stub pipe under the turbo out of the way.
im thinking v-band is easier though....
Brian
Originally Posted by turbovanman
That's awesome. Is that a 2.5" diameter? I don't really get the concept of how the downpipe hooks to it...Originally Posted by yogurt_slinger
Nice looking turbo though, T3/T4?
The flange that is on the end of his SV will press up against an identical flange on the DP. A V band style clamp holds on to both of those flanges and clamps over them... pretty simple really.Originally Posted by Dave
Aaron Miller