Non HD cooling rad ok for a GLHS clone?

[turbovanman²]

I did a GLHS clone for a customer, then his friend put an IC on it with a Honda aluminum rad, well even with a 180 stat, it runs at 210+ on the highway. Rad gets plenty of air flow and the electric fan is running all the time above 180 deg so its the rad which can't dissipate the heat. It has no a/c.

I have 2 choices of rads, the regular or HD, the HD has a slightly bigger core, aprox 1-2 inches bigger all around but both rads have the same thickness core at 1 1/2 and 2 tubes. Price difference is $150. I know about TU's rads but not going to happen, he only drives it in the summer then its parked all winter.

TIA.

[contraption22]

I use a G-body T1 radiator in my Horizon. Rarely goes above Tstat temp.

[bakes]

I use a G-body T1 radiator in my Horizon. Rarely goes above Tstat temp.

+1 that s what Dick an I run on are l bodys

[turbovanman²]

I use a G-body T1 radiator in my Horizon. Rarely goes above Tstat temp.

Bolts right in?

G body-Daytona right?

[bakes]

slight mods

[contraption22]

Bolts right in?

G body-Daytona right?

Nope. Doesn't bolt right in. Had to weld on new lower mounts, drill new upper holes, and swing the alternator up to where the A/C compressor would be.

But, no more cooling issues!

Wider is MUCH better than thicker when it comes to radiators.

[plymouth]

Wider is MUCH better than thicker when it comes to radiators.

Agree I had a ford work van rad in one of my p-bodys it was cool all the time regardless of what I was doing, but sadly ford van rads are hard to stuff in a small car.

[black86glhs]

Unless money is an issue, go with the HD one and he will be set. If you like modifying stuff, put in one of the other rads they mentioned.

[turbovanman²]

Nope. Doesn't bolt right in. Had to weld on new lower mounts, drill new upper holes, and swing the alternator up to where the A/C compressor would be.

But, no more cooling issues!

Wider is MUCH better than thicker when it comes to radiators.

Hmmmmm, don't feel like redoing the alternator again,

Unless money is an issue, go with the HD one and he will be set. If you like modifying stuff, put in one of the other rads they mentioned.

HD rad is barely larger than the regular duty, hard to justify the huge cost difference for it.

[black86glhs]

Hmmmmm, don't feel like redoing the alternator again,



HD rad is barely larger than the regular duty, hard to justify the huge cost difference for it.

Ok then, go with the Non-HD. Pretty easy decision in my book.

[contraption22]

Simon, how big is this cost difference? Does this car have a front mounted intercooler, or stock location?

[turbovanman²]

Simon, how big is this cost difference? Does this car have a front mounted intercooler, or stock location?

Its in the first post, $150,

It has an aftermarket IC, core aprox 10" wide, 12" tall, off to the drivers side and flows well, air thru wise. If I jump the fan, it will easily hold a piece of cardboard there so this tells me the rad is simply too small.

I might have another option, the VW guy next door has some rads with the Passat dual fan setup, the main motor sticks out but that will easily clear at the battery side and the fan is so thin, it won't get in the way. More playing around today.

[turbovanman²]

Guess I should update, lol. I put a stock L body rad in, fixed the problem.

I have pics, will post later.

[RoadWarrior222]

Did the honda rad sit right down on/by the bottom crosspiece?

[turbovanman²]

Did the honda rad sit right down on/by the bottom crosspiece?

Yes, and it got full airflow.

[shackwrrr]

probably the front mount, I have a honda rad in mine and if I leave the fan on all the time it stays rock steady right at 179-180 even through a drag race or auto-x

[RoadWarrior222]

Yes, and it got full airflow.

Just checking, at highway speeds practically all the flow is down low. "Radiator Grilles" are a bit of a misnomer when they tend to aerodynamically block at highway speed and do practically nothing, they are almost purely decorative on anything built since mid 90s.

[turbovanman²]

Just checking, at highway speeds practically all the flow is down low. "Radiator Grilles" are a bit of a misnomer when they tend to aerodynamically block at highway speed and do practically nothing, they are almost purely decorative on anything built since mid 90s.

Stock is mounted exactly the same.

probably the front mount, I have a honda rad in mine and if I leave the fan on all the time it stays rock steady right at 179-180 even through a drag race or auto-x

Nothing to do with the FMIC, as I stated, with the fan on, it would hold up a piece of cardboard and the spacing thru the fins/mesh? is pretty wide, you can see right thru it.