Thats why im going to buy a decal from this site. Yes, can you get me the address? thanks
Thats why im going to buy a decal from this site. Yes, can you get me the address? thanks
does the car top out at 85mph? Or can you keep going ? Or maybe add abigger speedometer? Does anyone know the thread for wiring an air/fuel ratior gauge and psi gauge? Thanks
No.
Yes.
There wasn't one made for an L-body, but you can get a speedo overlay like in a GLHS.
How to wire it is toward the bottom of the page.
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_o2gauge.html
For the boost (psi) gauge, just tap into manifold vacuum/boost. Don't connect at the fuel pressure regulator.
Kevin Isenberg EVERYTHING is for sale!
Thanks a lot, I've been to that site before, I didn't know that article was there. Weather seems bad right now, hope it isn't tomorroow I wanna get some work done.
I tried starting the car today and it doesnt seem to turn just make a " click " sound. My best bet, is the starter relay that went out? if so, anyone has one that works in good condition? thanks otherwise im going to buy new.
Last edited by Spycker; 07-13-2010 at 02:55 PM.
How do I go upon doing it? sorry if I sound like a new person but this is my first 80s mopar.
My scanner won't work so you will have to bare with the paint pics here.
You can test the starter solenoid by jumping the battery terminal and the solenoid terminal on the connector.
If that checks out, make sure you are getting voltage at the battery terminal on the connector (if you weren't the previous test wouldn't work either), hook up the connecotr to the starter relay, jumper between terminal 1, and terminal 4. If it tries to start, the starter relay is good. If it doesn't crank, connect a second jumper wire from terminal 5 to a good ground. If it cranks, the starter relay is good, but the park/neutral switch or linkage for the auto transmissions is bad.
If you have any questions let me know. I'm sure what I just wrote is very confusing.
Last edited by minigts; 01-26-2011 at 10:16 PM.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Thanks Jon. That is a little better than my diagram.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
thanks and this is why im getting a tm decal, ill put some work on the shelby when i get home from work tomorrow
I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that if you hear a clicking, the relay is good. It sounds as though you either have a bad starter, or a dead battery. If the engine turned over when you bought it, and it's sat for a bit, I'd lean toward the battery. Nice car by the way!
i though the single click sound was a bad starter relay? lol i have a working battery, itll be the starter but ill test it later on today then ill be able to rule out what part ill need to replace
single click sound, ive done a ground wire test run, it does the same single click but i can hear something turning, not the engine, im thinking the starter, so the relay is bad
You can pull the cap off the starter relay and see if it's working. If you have a spare laying around, that's the easy test, but if you pull the cover off and watch to see if the contacts touch when the key is turned forward, that would eliminate that. Relays can go bad, but I've not seen too many go without literally burning to a crisp.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
I need to special order the starter, since kragen and autozone dont carry it?
If you take the cap off the relay with a flat head screw driver, you can have someone try and turn the key and see if the contact works. You can also get a test light (easiest), ground the one end and touch the BR wire, have someone try and start it and see if the test light lights up when they try and start the car. You can also get a standard relay and try one other approach.
Ok, here's what you CAN do but I would be SUPER careful with the wires not to touch them. All relays work the same. There's a coil inside with two wires that charge the coil creating a magnet and two contacts that are open until the coil is charged and then it creates the circuit. There's a diagram below. But you can take a regular relay, any relay, and "map" the wires to their respective places to test to see if the relay is bad if you can't go pick one up from the store.
Basically when you turn the key to start the car, the yellow wire sends current to the coil which is then grounded by the BR/YL wire. It creates the magnet creating the circuit for the power wire to BR wire going to the starter.
On a standard relay like the ones used on our cars (the black ones), there are up to 5 positions but 99% of the time only 4 are used. 85 and 86 are the coil positions, so one side would be the BR and the other would be the BR/YL.
The other positions are 30 and 87. 30 will be the source power and 87 will be the "receiver". So when the coil is activated, 30 and 87 will touch (this is when you turn the key to the actual starting action) and the starter will engage. Do not hook up 87a at all. It's the middle one, but don't hook it up at all. Some relays will not have the 87a though, so it may not be important to worry about. And the numbers are on the bottom of the relay next to each position.
I would just get a regular relay and try this. If you want to add safety to the equation, take a 20 amp fuse and run the power in to one side the fuse and make a wire to run to the relay. And to do what I'm saying, you should just use a small tool of some sort to extract the wires from the factory plug (DON'T DAMAGE ANY OF THEM, you'll be putting them back) and they will fit the test relay just fine.
Here's a site on relays.
http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
thanks for the information, ill be sure to test it out
SHES RUNNING!
apparently, theres a little bit of oil coming out from the exhaust along with the black and white smoke, headgasket? oh and i didnt purchase any new starter or relay, i banged the starter solenoid with the help of my father and it worked.
Last edited by Spycker; 05-14-2011 at 06:44 PM.