2-step with an auto trans?

[BadAssPerformance]

My concern with doing it that way, or continuing to do it that way, is that the PCM will try to maintain stoich. .

With the 2step you should be able to engage WOT.... if your brakes can hold the car?

[SebringLX]

With the 2step you should be able to engage WOT.... if your brakes can hold the car?

Yes, which is why I want to do it. I think the brakes can hold it with the 4000 rpm stall speed I'll have now. I know they wouldn't hold WOT without the 2-step. We'll find out on the 17th!

[Dusty_Duster]

You really should install an MSD RPM window switch for your nitrous for added insurance. I wouldn't run nitrous without one.

[SebringLX]

Digging this thread back up... I'm not going to do anything with Nitrous at this time, just going to get the 2-step setup. I'm going to Radio Shack tomorrow to pick up supplies needed to do it.

The instructions for the DIS2 say to connect the blue wire to 12v to activate the 2-step rev limit. So I'm thinking of getting a toggle switch, and tapping into the brake switch. Toggle switch on = 2-step will activate when I step on the brakes, and deactivate when I let off the brake. Toggle switch off = 2-step disabled.

Is an SPST switch like this one http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3098835 the right way to go? Blue wire from DIS2 to 1 prong on switch, red wire to 12v side of brake switch on another prong, and black wire to ground on the last prong?

[SebringLX]

I got the switch I linked to in my last post, but I'm still not sure how to hook it up. The connections on it are "POWER, ACC, GROUND". The brake switch has about a half dozen wires coming out of it, so I'm not sure which one I need to tap on it. I'm guessing the blue wire from the DIS2 should go to the ACC prong on the toggle switch? Then when I figure out which is the 12v wire on the brake switch, I should run a wire to it from the POWER prong on the toggle switch to it. Ground should go to a convient location on the cassis?

[Ondonti]

I think the 2 step is a great idea. The rod bearing issue and many other issues are just fraudulent comments made by a few "experts" who don't understand engine dynamics. Sad that they have to pass these things on as facts to the rest of us. You are not going to create metal to metal contact on bearings without engine killing detonation or a lack of oil. I have had my main block girdle separate from the block and that did include some physical bearing damage. It was killer detonation. Simple lack of spark or fuel for a 2 step is no different on the motor then the exhaust stroke! Its like having 2 exhaust strokes in a row. Engines handle hundreds of millions maybe billions of those cycles with no problem. The only problem with a 2 step could be if your valve springs have a resonance rpm that is between idle and redline and you set your 2 step at that bad rpm spot. Most valve springs try to avoid that by design.

I like the 2 step because I have seen a lot of mild auto trans TD's be terribly inconsistent off the line.
The 2 step can be set to whatever the max your brakes will hold, or to whatever you feel gives you a quality launch, or any other requirement you have.

Seen them get really pissed at auto trans turbo vehicals on pinks because the dipwad wants to sit their for 30 seconds brake boosting with their improperly built setup.

[SebringLX]

*BUMP* I still need help with the wiring. I wanted to try and get this done today, but I still can't seem to figure out how to wire this into the brake switch. See posts 24 and 25...

[BadAssPerformance]

I used a momentary button switch istead of a toggle and a clutch switch (stick) so the button was only held during launch and the 2-step would not engage each clutching/gear You can use a toggle but have to remember to flip it off after you launch or it will activate when you brake in shutdown.

I'm guessing it is a lighted troggle? or is it a on-off-on? typically a 2 pole is all that is needed... I'm guessing it is a lighted switch then yes the ACC is your 12V "on"

Look in the FSM to figure out which wire is the +12V signal for the brake lights... tap and send that to the +12V side of the switch, then the ACC terminal to the blue wire ont he DIS2... ground the switch ... should work that way so BOTH the brake have to be pressed and toggle switched to "on" to send +12V to the box

[SebringLX]

I used a momentary button switch istead of a toggle and a clutch switch (stick) so the button was only held during launch and the 2-step would not engage each clutching/gear You can use a toggle but have to remember to flip it off after you launch or it will activate when you brake in shutdown.

I'm guessing it is a lighted troggle? or is it a on-off-on? typically a 2 pole is all that is needed... I'm guessing it is a lighted switch then yes the ACC is your 12V "on"

Look in the FSM to figure out which wire is the +12V signal for the brake lights... tap and send that to the +12V side of the switch, then the ACC terminal to the blue wire ont he DIS2... ground the switch ... should work that way so BOTH the brake have to be pressed and toggle switched to "on" to send +12V to the box

Yes it's the blue LED lighted toggle switch I linked to. DOH, can't believe I spaced on the FSM... I think I have one in PDF format somewhere, I just need to find it.

---------- Post added at 11:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:59 AM ----------

Ok this is what I found in the FSM...

BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - GRAY 6 WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 K29 20WT/PK (2.0L/2.4L) BRAKE SWITCH SIGNAL
1 K29 20WT/PK (2.7L) BRAKE SWITCH SENSE
2 Z241 20BK (2.7L MTX) GROUND
2 Z241 20BK/LG (EXCEPT 2.7L MTX) GROUND
3 V32 20YL/RD (2.0L/2.4L) S/C SUPPLY
3 V32 20YL/RD (2.7L) SPEED CONTROL POWER SUPPLY
4 V30 20DB/RD SPEED CONTROL BRAKE SWITCH OUTPUT
5 L50 16WT/TN BRAKE LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
6 A7 18RD/BK FUSED B(+)

#5, the output is what I want to connect to?

---------- Post added at 11:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:07 AM ----------

I also found that #23 on the C3 plug of the PCM is the "Brake Switch Signal". It may be easier to tap than than to try and get to the actual brake switch, if that's the right wire to use.

[SebringLX]

I tested the #23 wire on the C3 plug of the PCM, it jumps up to 8v when I press the brake. I don't think that's going to work since it says it needs 12v... Any ideas?

[SebringLX]

Nevermind I think I found it... there was a wire on the brake switch that was already tapped into, I think it was for the aftermarket alarm system I had installed when I 1st got the back back in 2003. I tested it, and it delivers 12v when the brake is pressed. I have the switch on mounted on a dash panel next to my mirror adjustment switches. Going to get the soldering iron out and start wiring it up, then test it out.

[BadAssPerformance]

Cool, deal, sounds like you got it man

[SebringLX]

Great success! The switch lights up blue when the brake is pressed. I set it at 3800rpms and tested it in nuetral. Can't wait to try it out at the track.

Next question, should I retard the timing at all while the 2-step is engaged? If so, how many degrees?

[BadAssPerformance]

Sweet. You can play with that at the track, the retard will make it build more boost.

[SebringLX]

Sweet. You can play with that at the track, the retard will make it build more boost.

Well I didn't connect that wire, but it would be easy to do at this point. Pink wire to 12v activates step retard. I suppose I could hook it up, leave it 0'd out, and adjust the dials as needed later on.

[BadAssPerformance]

true...

[22shelby]

josh you are going to LOVE the 2 step.... no more tring to hold it at XXXX RPM just set it where u want it and go... just make sure u engage it at a lessor RPM than your stall speed, not fun when it starts buckin... just on my normal ignition advance i can make 12 PSI @3400 RPM sitting still... i do however want to play with "anti lag" timing retard to get a few more PSI out of it, im just below my stall speed so it pretty much will sit there i just feel with the old 2.5 it could have grunted out of the hole a lil better, never once spun with the 22X8 mickeys...

when we go to the track, ill help ya dial it in...we'll get that tank sling shottin out of the hole!!

[SebringLX]

josh you are going to LOVE the 2 step.... no more tring to hold it at XXXX RPM just set it where u want it and go... just make sure u engage it at a lessor RPM than your stall speed, not fun when it starts buckin... just on my normal ignition advance i can make 12 PSI @3400 RPM sitting still... i do however want to play with "anti lag" timing retard to get a few more PSI out of it, im just below my stall speed so it pretty much will sit there i just feel with the old 2.5 it could have grunted out of the hole a lil better, never once spun with the 22X8 mickeys...

when we go to the track, ill help ya dial it in...we'll get that tank sling shottin out of the hole!!

I have it set at 3800RPM, my torque converter has a 4000RPM stall. I figure if it bucks I'll drop it another 200 rpm. I think after I get my exhaust leak fixed, I'll be able to launch at or near full boost. Hoping to hit the T&T at Byron on April 9th.

[ohiorob]

don't know if this was mention but the brake light is slow to turn off and may need some adjustment to make it work properly.

[SebringLX]

don't know if this was mention but the brake light is slow to turn off and may need some adjustment to make it work properly.

Seemed really quick to me... like millisecond quick. The toggle switch is illuminated when the brake is on, and it shuts off immediately when the brake is released. I won't know for sure how responsive it is in real world use until I get to the track.