I just noticed three bypasses underneath a mountain of amalgamated tape covering the fusible link harness in this Shelby Charger. Whoever did the bypasses used only 16 gauge fusible link. I'll bet anything this gauge was used more out of convenience.
Does anyone know exactly what gauges are required for each fusible link coming out of the harness? I would need to also know the corresponding color of each wire the link connects to.
Thanks, Devin
Welcome to the board! I am not sure exactly what the answer you are seeking is, but I had to say hi to a newcomer. Hopefully someone will post up your answer soon....
-Nate- ''Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on, or by imbeciles who really mean it.'' —Mark Twain
yep saw worse than that ! all the fusible links welded together to the positive wire ...
another alternative if your feeling creative is to replace the links with a fuse box from a later daytona or something.
1988 Lancer Shelby 2.2TII 1989 Shadow ES 2.5TI 1992 Lebaron Sedan 3.0Auto 1993 Acclaim 2.5TI-A520 Hoard parts now!
Your answer is posted on the thread you started on the TD forum.
Thanks. I wish I had this information to start with. MAXI fuses here I come...Originally Posted by impuresoul2k3
The wire gauge of fusible links should be 4 gauges smaller then the circuit you're protecting. So if you have a 12ga circuit you would use a 16ga link. The links are made with special insulation that will not burn when the link burns out.
Fusible links sound like a PITA but there really is a reason other then to make your life miserable. As you pass electricity through a wire it generates heat. Too much heat and the wire melts. Fuses and fusible links are designed to limit the maximum current flow so the wire doesn't melt. Fuses burn out much faster as a result of an over current whereas fusible links are much more tolerant to over currents. A good example is a starter circuit; because of the short time you use the starter heat doesn't have enough time to build up and you can safely use a smaller wire. If you use a fuse based on the rating of the wire it will burn out every time you start the car. The fusible link will only burnout when the main wire has almost reached it's melting point. As long as the link stays below it's melting point it will function indefinitely.
So in circuits that may have momentary over currents based on the circuit size a fusible link is preferred to a fuse because it can be sized properly to protect the wire against failure (melting) without needlessly tripping.
You can use a couple of boxes for the switch from fuse links to a fuse/relay box. I'm currently using one from a Mirage, Cordes is going to use one from a Neon and I'm sure you could pull one of the yard from a Lebaron or Daytona that would work, although it wouldn't fit the best in terms of the box size. I've done two so far, about to do a third so if you have any questions feel free to PM me. For your ease, I'd probably look to go the Dodge route when going to the yards. It will probably make things easier with wire color coordination, but the bottom line is, double check and triple check which wires go where before and then after the swap if you do so.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote