Once you have the shoulders well rounded off of the 02 sensor, go ahead and use a LARGE pipe wrench, with an extension on it if needed. That is what did the trick on the '86 Woody I had. Soaking in PB blaster helps too.
Once you have the shoulders well rounded off of the 02 sensor, go ahead and use a LARGE pipe wrench, with an extension on it if needed. That is what did the trick on the '86 Woody I had. Soaking in PB blaster helps too.
1986 Chrysler Lebaron 2 dr. R.I.P. 2.2 T1 log intake, modified to intercool Best 1/8th 9.03@77mph / Best 1/4 14.16@93.55mph Running on E85:nod:[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] '93 Spirit 2.5 TBI 5 Spd(sold), '85 Ramcharger, 360 4brl, NP435 4 Spd. The new ride; '90 Sundance 2.5 T1/5 spd. FMIC(from Ford Probe) new Mitsu; Best 1/8th 8.96@79.16 / Best 1/4 14.06@101.27
book time is like 0.6hours. just another way out.
1988 Lancer Shelby 2.2TII 1989 Shadow ES 2.5TI 1992 Lebaron Sedan 3.0Auto 1993 Acclaim 2.5TI-A520 Hoard parts now!
I soaked my o2 sensor in liquid wrench for about 2 hours and then used a breaker bar (cheater bar) on the end of a socket wrench.
Well, i ended up not replacing the o2. I actually must of had a bad connection in the connector. The sensors ground wire(on harness side) had the insulation off...So i pulled that connector out of the plug, and cleaned it up and put some shrink tube on it...i also checked the other ground.. Both grounds are good now. Put it back together and its been working good ever since(The sensor only has if 20,000 miles on it.).....i am not going to replace the sensor as i am going wideband very shortly, where i am just going to use the widebands output for the smec...would rather put that 50 bucks towards a wideband.
Tom
If your doin an O2 ,with the car on the ground(or close to it).
Get a chain or cable or rope.Set the breaker bar on the sensor so the bar hangs down to the right,over by the crank pulley. Now get your cousin,neighbor ,(even wife or girlfriend)will do.To drop the chain/rope down thru the belts, and firmly wrap it around the breaker bar. Now heat the exhaust housing, slide out and pull up on the cable/chain.Remember to use your legs!
I broke a couple of 1/2" drive extensions yesterday trying to get mine out. I broke the sensor off to the nut to get at it better but didn't make any progress. This is the first one that's ever given me so much trouble!
Trying to get at it with a closed end wrench seems like the popular choice but I can't get on it at all with one and still have room to move. I'm thinking the power steering pump might have to move, or at the very least the right swing valve spring bolt needs to. As it sits that bolt is sticking up directly in front of the O2 nut keeping me from getting anything on it from underneath the car.
Surprisingly the car runs fine like this. The wiring at the connector is beyond melted, bare wires and melted plastic everywhere. I'm thinking it hasn't even been reading the sensor(just noticed all of this when I went to install an a/f gauge and new sensor). I can't even separate the connector so I'll be going to the junk yard to find a good one then back to trying to get the damn sensor out.
1991 Chrysler Lebaron GTC convertible - a568 - 15psi FWD Stage 3, FMIC, TII Garrett turbo, two of the big ones
I said F-it.....buy a wide band, weld a new bung in, install new sensor...leave old narrow band o2 in stock location and use the output from the wideband to feed the ecu.
Peice of cake.
Twisted the tip off of two of them. One was a chinese harbor freight special, the other a Craftsman. Must be something about the angle there. Using a 6" or so extension I can get a breaker bar on it with a cheater pipe and tons of leverage, but no breaky loosey.
It might be time for 3/4" drive...I already have a massive breaker bar from when I had to do U-Joints on my Ram. Those axle nuts make ours look like nothing. I broke a 1/2" drive ratchet and a breaker bar on one before I stepped up to 3/4", then had to use a floor jack under the breaker bar to get enough leverage. Gotta love RUST
1991 Chrysler Lebaron GTC convertible - a568 - 15psi FWD Stage 3, FMIC, TII Garrett turbo, two of the big ones
yes pb blaster then an actual o2 socket with ratchet and a pipe or long ratchet, whichever you have or both lol and it will always come off. I never needed heat to be honest. unless its a tight spot where you cant get something long on there etc.
Heat that baby up. I found going out and getting on it a little if you can do that safely will do more than a torch can.
i break the end off and use a 6 point short socket, a ratchet or breaker bar and a pipe.
Brian
Tighten it before you try to back it off... I don't know why, but it helps. And everything else they said.
1. Pull the head
2. Buy new, bigger swing valve and install sensor.
3. ???
4. Profit.
step 3 is fraud.
1988 Lancer Shelby 2.2TII 1989 Shadow ES 2.5TI 1992 Lebaron Sedan 3.0Auto 1993 Acclaim 2.5TI-A520 Hoard parts now!
I know you said your not going to do it anymore.. However I soaked mine down for the coarse of a week. Drive it to work and back, spray on pb blaster every day. I then used a 1/2 inch ratchet and my index and middle finger to loosen. I got a little grease on my forearm but I didn't break a sweat.. lol
Shelby Lancer # 149... R.I.P.
1989 Daytona AGS CS 2.5TII A555, S60 1986 600es Convertible turbo 1969/8 Barracuda 318, 904 1966 Dart Station Wagon 1996 Dakota 5.2 4wd 1979 Honda CM400T Hard tailed Chopper