Clutch Weights

[Reeves]

Discs:
20K mile McLeod Rev-Lok full face 4 cuts sintered iron 3lb 8.5oz



New FWD Performance 6 puck ceramic 3lb 10oz



Well used Relentless Performance 4 puck ceramic 2lb 13.5oz



Slightly used Centerforce 1? or 2? or Gold? or Silver? 2lb 8.5oz



Very slightly used FWD Performance 4 puck ceramic 3lb 0oz



New FWD Performance Spec full face 6 cuts sintered iron unsprung hub 4lb 1.5oz
*forgot to take pics*


New FWD Performance Spec full face Feramic 5lb 0oz.
*already installed in CSXTRA car*

Added by Shadow:
ACT 240mm organic (sprung) 3lb 9.8 oz
ACT 240mm 6 puck (sprung) 3lb 13 oz
Spec 240mm stage 4+ (solid) 4lb 9.3 oz



All Pics:

[Shadow]

Good info, I'll add what I have as soon as I'm back from the lake.

I take it those are ALL sprung hubs? (we should deff specify)

[Reeves]

They are all sprung EXCEPT for the one that says UNSPRUNG.

[BadAssPerformance]

Good thread Reeves... I'll measure my collection sometime but need a better crack scale, mine is only in pound increments.

[Captain Chaos]

Feramic.

Excuse my ignorance, but is this a typo or a new top secret material?

[csxtra]

Excuse my ignorance, but is this a typo or a new top secret material?

Not top secret, just a combination of sintered iron and graphite.

Supposed to hold nearly as well as sintered iron without the chattery engagement. Also supposedly lasts longer than ceramic. Downside is cost.

So far it works GREAT on my CSX...feels like a stocker with a bit more abrupt engagement, but NO CHATTER. VERY streetable. Haven't taken it to the track and done an all-out launch on slicks yet, so the jury is still out on its holding power.

[TurboJerry]

I'm looking for a new clutch for the R/T so LMK how the Feramic holds up. I'm shooting for 11's in a stock full weight car (Spirit) and I already know the clutch will be tricky ! I also don't want it to "dig in" to the flywheel like some of the others do. I'd like to know that the flywheel can be ground and reused somewhat...

[BadAssPerformance]

To not "dig in" gotta go full disk and non-metallic... the puck clutches seem to wear the flywheel and p-plate surcaces more than the clutch itself

[Shadow]

Not top secret, just a combination of sintered iron and graphite.

Supposed to hold nearly as well as sintered iron without the chattery engagement. Also supposedly lasts longer than ceramic. Downside is cost.

So far it works GREAT on my CSX...feels like a stocker with a bit more abrupt engagement, but NO CHATTER. VERY streetable. Haven't taken it to the track and done an all-out launch on slicks yet, so the jury is still out on its holding power.

4 puck, 6 puck or full faced? Sprung or solid hub?

[Shadow]

Discs:
20K mile McLeod Rev-Lok full face 4 cuts sintered iron 3lb 8.5oz
New FWD Performance 6 puck ceramic 3lb 10oz
Well used Relentless Performance 4 puck ceramic 2lb 13.5oz
Slightly used Centerforce 1? or 2? or Gold? or Silver? 2lb 8.5oz
Very slightly used FWD Performance 4 puck ceramic 3lb 0oz
New FWD Performance Spec full face 6 cuts sintered iron unsprung hub 4lb 1.5oz
New FWD Performance Spec full face Feramic 5lb 0oz.

Most of the discs I've weighed are doubles of yours and the weights match up pretty well exactly.

I have these to add.....

ACT 240mm organic (sprung) 3lb 9.8 oz
ACT 240mm 6 puck (sprung) 3lb 13 oz
Spec 240mm stage 4+ (solid) 4lb 9.3 oz
Clutchnet 240mm 3 puck (solid) 1lb 13oz

[mock_glh]

While the lining type affects the grip and wear characteristics, the weight of the disc affects the acceleration and shifting characteristics. Since the disc is stopped when the car is first launched, its weight has to be instantly accelerated to engine speed. A heavy disc will steal away more of the dynamic energy from the flywheel than a light one will. Also, the heavy disc will be harder for the synchros to decelerate to match RPM, making it harder to shift. Therefore the lightest disc will generally give the best performance.

[Shadow]

While the lining type affects the grip and wear characteristics, the weight of the disc affects the acceleration and shifting characteristics. Since the disc is stopped when the car is first launched, its weight has to be instantly accelerated to engine speed. A heavy disc will steal away more of the dynamic energy from the flywheel than a light one will. Also, the heavy disc will be harder for the synchros to decelerate to match RPM, making it harder to shift. Therefore the lightest disc will generally give the best performance.

Exactly, but it's always going to be a compromise when the bottom line is shear holding capacity. This is the whole reason we got started on disc weights, to see what's out there and what will be the best choise to run in a high HP stick car. (without having to go twin disc)

[glhs727]

4 puck, 6 puck or full faced? Sprung or solid hub?

full face feramic sprung hub......

[Shadow]

full face feramic sprung hub......

Nice, so there's going to be a # of us running these!

[csxtra]

the weight of the disc affects the acceleration and shifting characteristics. Since the disc is stopped when the car is first launched, its weight has to be instantly accelerated to engine speed. A heavy disc will steal away more of the dynamic energy from the flywheel than a light one will. Also, the heavy disc will be harder for the synchros to decelerate to match RPM, making it harder to shift. Therefore the lightest disc will generally give the best performance.

Exactly, but it's always going to be a compromise when the bottom line is shear holding capacity. This is the whole reason we got started on disc weights, to see what's out there and what will be the best choise to run in a high HP stick car. (without having to go twin disc)

Exactly the concerns I had when I weighed the disk. I'm guessing my synchros will be hating life on upshifts, but after living with the chatter and noise of a sintered iron disk for 7 years, I'm very happy with the engagement of this clutch.

I considered a twin-disc, but after reading Alan's results, I started looking for alternatives (I am a cheap TM guy after all). After researching the feramic, it is supposedly the highest torque holding power you can get with a smooth engagement without the cost of a twin-disk.

According to the research I did, feramic supposedly doesn't eat away flywheels and pressure plates as fast as ceramic friction materials do. (I'm not exactly how that works with it's high coefficient of friction, but I found that information from multiple sources, so I'm curious to see how the parts hold up).

4 puck, 6 puck or full faced? Sprung or solid hub?

full face feramic sprung hub......

Yeah, what she said

[mock_glh]

Exactly, but it's always going to be a compromise when the bottom line is shear holding capacity. This is the whole reason we got started on disc weights, to see what's out there and what will be the best choise to run in a high HP stick car. (without having to go twin disc)

True. Compromise is a way of life. I've opted to tolerate the heavy pedal pressure of a dual diaphragm pressure plate but I'm using a stock Sachs organic disc and having great success with 390 ft/lbs of torque, but who knows how it will do with 100 more. I just hate the way the ceramic/metallic discs destroy the flywheel and pressure plate. You guys with 500+ HP will have to figure it out for me.

[Shadow]

True. Compromise is a way of life. I've opted to tolerate the heavy pedal pressure of a dual diaphragm pressure plate but I'm using a stock Sachs organic disc and having great success with 390 ft/lbs of torque, but who knows how it will do with 100 more. I just hate the way the ceramic/metallic discs destroy the flywheel and pressure plate. You guys with 500+ HP will have to figure it out for me.

Interesting, as I'm kind of on the opposite side of the fence, looking for a moderate peddle with smooth street driving engagement (smoother than a 4 puck anyways) which means I'm going to have to run a heavier full faced disc with higher COF to get the job done.

I can tell you this, the set-up I will be running will hold over 450WTQ with an organic disc and moderate peddle. With the disc I'm running it will be somewhere in the 650-700WTQ range for sure, just not sure how it's going to shift with the heavier disc.

The Charger shifted smooth as silk last time out on the FWD 4 puck (3lb sprung hub) So I should know the first time out at the track.

I guess it really comes down to What RPM the Weight of the disc Starts to become a hinderance. either way, we shall soon see.......

[TurboJerry]

I already put a hydraulic clutch setup on the car. I'm just worried about killing the thrust bearing with higher pressure on the plate. Looks like I'll be getting something from FWD when the time comes to play with my stuff. I always used 4000lbs. borg and beck long style pressure plates on muscle cars with semi metallic discs and they worked great but super heavy pedal with the bell crank linkage those cars had... lol

[Polygon]

full face feramic sprung hub......

How much power will these hold?

[badandy]

I already put a hydraulic clutch setup on the car. I'm just worried about killing the thrust bearing with higher pressure on the plate. Looks like I'll be getting something from FWD when the time comes to play with my stuff. I always used 4000lbs. borg and beck long style pressure plates on muscle cars with semi metallic discs and they worked great but super heavy pedal with the bell crank linkage those cars had... lol

Do you have any more info on the hydraulic setup?