Raffle engine into 1986 factory Turbo wagon

[wheming]

You find all the cool parts for your cars....

[Johnny]

Not today. Went to get an air dam. Got an early 90's Explorer like AJ used on his Dad's wagon and another later model one.
But they don't fit my wagon with the way my intercooler hoses are.

[Johnny]

Installed the throttle and trans cable today.
Had to change the rotating part on the throttle body from stick shift style to auto trans style.

The started it up!!

[cordes]

Looks like you've got some loose fasteners on there. Looking good though. Nice quality on the camera too.

[Johnny]

Loose bolt on the coil bracket….I saw that also.

[Johnny]

But now I need to fix one issue. I had the pan off to check things out. Re-sealed it with rtv and end seals.
Thought I did it right, but oil is pouring out the back. Did I do it wrong or rear main seal?

[csxtra]

Does the rear main seal itself have the rubber on the outside where it meets the aluminum housing? IF not, can you tell if any anaerobic sealer was used between the seal and the housing? It is pretty common for the rear main seals to end up turning with the crank and leak between the seal and the housing, unless they have either rubber on the outside surface or anaerobic added to that surface to hold the seal in place and seal that junction.

Or it could be the small block plug above the rear main...those have been known to come loose and leak.

Bummer that the trans has to come out to fix either of those causes...but I'm sure you'll get it fixed and back together soon Johnny.

[Johnny]

Bummer that the trans has to come out to fix either of those causes...but I'm sure you'll get it fixed and back together soon Johnny.

Not soon. I am discouraged.
Stopping the project and getting a van running.
Both my vans are down and need something to drive besides my truck.
I was hoping it to be the wagon while I work on a van, but looks like no.
Going to fix the white van first. So will be after the first of the year until
I get back to the wagon.

[A.J.]

why not just use a full size T1 radiator?

Because I have an aluminum one.

If I had to do my Dad's wagon over again it I would use the full size radiator and/or an air to water intercooler. The FMIC blocks too much of the TU T-II radiator. If I had a full size radiator it might not be so bad or if I had an AWIC it might not be so bad. But with 110* ambient air temps, small radiator, large FMIC, and AC on it makes it run too hot. 230* is average for my Dad's wagon in the summer.

[wheming]

I had something similar Johnny and didn't turn out well.
It was the oil galley plug in the block.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...d.php?p=985174

[Johnny]

I am going to have it up on the lift, have someone else start it while I am under it.
Maybe I can see if it is the pan or something else.

[chilort]

Damn. Been lurking and watching this for some time. Sorry to see it. I've got an engine I hope will get started up here in short order and I hope it all goes well.

My dad worked at a distributor for Cummins for years. He likes to tell a story about how after a rebuild by a new guy they all watched when he started the engine up and one guy stood back and took something and banged on the frame of the truck in a periodic manner to make it sound like it had a rod problem. The guy who rebuilt the engine, even after finding out there wasn't a problem and it was all a hoax, went home early that day. I don't blame him.

[Johnny]

I was going to RE-DO the pan gasket, but something told me to pull the trans.
I pulled the trans today and found that the oil galley plug had worked loose.
Then it had hit something (flex plate) and messed it up.
It had been threaded. So I took it out, went and got a brass one and used
high temp RTV on the threads. Installed a new rear main seal and pan seal ends.

Re-installed the flex plate, torque converter, trans, starter, etc.

Started it up and no leak!!!!

Back on track.

[Vigo]

Nice to find something on the first try!!

[Johnny]

Now I was told I might have done it wrong and need to do it all over again.
(too deep of a plug)

[speedfreek500]

How about if you tried the same fix on one of your other blocks, Remove the plug and see how far it does go into the hole? Just a thought to save ya a lot of work.

[Johnny]

Good idea. How far till it blocks the important passage? I'll stop at the hardware store tomorrow and buy another one to see how deep it goes.

[2.216VTurbo]

Good idea. How far till it blocks the important passage? I'll stop at the hardware store tomorrow and buy another one to see how deep it goes.

You should be able to measure that fairly easily with the factory galley plug out. Isn't that passage the one that feeds the entire head? The one below the oriface restrictor? No oil to head and you'd know in just a few seconds. I had a somewhat simliar issue with the TIII motor in my Rampage. There is some suggestions out there in our comunity to weld up the little factory core plug in the corner of the deck surface of the head to give more support to the head gasket. So while I had the head out for porting & polishing & welding up the crack prone top core plugs, I had the little 1/4" deck plug welded shut and it blocked the whole passage shut that feeds the Ex cam Bad idea, what a weeks long cluster F that was...

[Johnny]

You should be able to measure that fairly easily with the factory galley plug out. Isn't that passage the one that feeds the entire head?

This is the one on the back of the engine block.

[supercrackerbox]

Right. The feed port to the cylinder head ascends straight up from that end of the main oil galley, which is what you're trying to plug. We just need to figure out if the plug you used was long enough to block that port. If you have another block or cylinder head laying around, I'd simply measure the distance from the rear face of the block/head to the port in the deck, and compare that to the length of the plug you used. If not, I can stop at the shop tonight and measure one of the cracked heads I have on the shelf.