The Charger is burning oil rather profusely. Compression test read 130, 130, 125, 130 cold. Plugs look perfect, no sign of oil on them. Turbo is tight. And yet I have a lot of blue smoke coming out the tail pipe.
The Charger is burning oil rather profusely. Compression test read 130, 130, 125, 130 cold. Plugs look perfect, no sign of oil on them. Turbo is tight. And yet I have a lot of blue smoke coming out the tail pipe.
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Like Simon's link suggested, check the downpipe/sv and see if either of them is covered in oil
Well like I said, the plugs have absolutely no signs of oil on them. In fact, this is the best looking set of plugs I've ever pulled out of this engine. I'll see what I can see on the pistons.
Also the turbo is perfectly tight. I'm guessing the thinking is that if the swingvalve and downpipe are nice and wet, it's coming from the turbo, whereas if it's just really sooty then the oil is being burned before it reaches the turbo? That would make sense given that it smells more like really hot oil instead of burned oil, if that makes sense . . .
I'd wager that if your plugs look good, this issue has something to do with the turbo. Haven't experienced it first hand, but other times when there are threads about oil smoke, a few responses usually mention to check the rubber connecting section of the oil return under the turbo. Make sure it hasn't collapsed internally...apparently when that happens, pressure forces the oil past a seal and into the exhaust housing.
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Yeah even though the turbo is tight, oil could still push past the seals. Mine does a little bit because I need to get my evac hooked up.
dont forget about the valve seals, you can pull the valvecover, and check to see if they have lifted off the guides. if the guides lift or drop you will have the same problem with seals. i had this problem on my friends tona, we thought it was the turbo, we pulled head to get to it, and when we pulled th exhaust mani, we could see oil in exhaust ports 1 and 3. that was a bummer because he had already bought a new turbo
I had clean plugs on my glhs and the downpipe was pretty black so I swapped the turbo and it still smoked. Turned out to be the valve seals. It'd smoke like a chimney at idle and a little at take off and thats it. You can pull the springs off with the right tool with the motor in the car and all to check. Some of mine actually came off the post they seat on and some of them were just chewed up around the valve stem. I swapped them all and no more smoke. The only reason I share this is it takes about an hour to check them all if you don't dilly dally and depending on how rusty and nasty the bolts to take the turbo off are it'd take a couple hours to swap turbos. You MIGHT even be able to get a look at the tops of the seals with the valve cover off, a good flashlight and some creative mirror work or a good viewing angle through the springs. It's nice to blame the turbo, but it sucks when you're wrong....if that's the case.
This car is newly rebuilt, I bet the bolts to take the DP off are not rusty at all.
you really need to remaove the turbo to know if its the turbo seals. if its only oily after the turbo, then turbo it is, but if theres oil in the exhaust manifold, then you know you problem is the seals.
This worked for me to troubleshoot my cars smoking issues. It smoked a lot on idle, but none on accel or decel. I let it idle and smoke really good, then I shut it down and quickly pulled the plugs. Smoke started to come out of the number 1 cyl hole. I then rotated the engine by hand and it stopped smoking in #1 and started in #3. The seal was bad on the hot side of the turbo, which caused smoke to come back up the exhaust valves. I had pulled the downpipe earlier and the swingvalve area WAS NOT WET at all, but it was black with soot. My intercooler pipes also had very minimal oil in them. A quick rebuild and my car no longer smokes.
Intercooler pipes are spotless, valve seals have less than 5,000 miles on them.
your seals my be new but what about your guides? same smoking issue on a charger, the seals and guides LOOKED fine, but when we pulled the valves, the seals just fell off? they fell of because the cast guides had cracked under the seals, so the seals were just moving with the valve. also if your valve guide lifts or drops, same issue can happen...
Good point. I'll add that to the list of things to check whenever I find time to actually do so.Originally Posted by OmniLuvr
Thanks guys.
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