car back fires and and runs like crap

[663csx-t]

well i have a 88 csx-t with a 2.5 c block 20% over pistons 255 walbro fule pump afpr intercooled 2 pice intake i have been working on this car for 3 years and im soo close to getting the car out on the streets but car back fires under a load and some times the car dose not like to be put under a load when that happends car shakes so i redid the timeing and it is set at 12 new plugs gap is at about .28 .29 i even turn down the fule prusser to 48 that worked some what but it seem like i loss hose power it still back fired under a load so i turn it back up too 51 that didt help any when i had the fule prusser set at 55 it ran good untill it backfired car would stall some times i dont know any thing else i can do here are some of the things i replaced temp sensor map sensor tps senor coil plugs o2 sensore car is showing a code 34 i look it up and it is a speed control solenoids soo i tryed too look it up on auto zone too see how much it is cant find it i still need to wire in the charged airtemp sensor i hope some one can help im done playing with it thanks guys

[663csx-t]

i relly dont want to send my car to a performance shop

[jamesmonty]

I would look at the cam timing. My omni was doing the same thing and that was the problem.

[663csx-t]

thanks but i never was able to check it or read the cam timing i have no glue how to do that thats one thing im lost in

[jamesmonty]

Start here

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/enginetiming.html

[BIG PSI]

thanks but i never was able to check it or read the cam timing i have no glue how to do that thats one thing im lost in

If you can't get your car running correctly, PM me your name & number and I will call and see what I can do to help.

Chuck

[turbovanman²]

Check cam and ignition timing, use a timing light. Unplug the coolant sensor, let the idle stabilize and check-12 deg.

To check cam timing using a timing light-

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vb...&articleid=131

[663csx-t]

Check cam and ignition timing, use a timing light. Unplug the coolant sensor, let the idle stabilize and check-12 deg.

To check cam timing using a timing light-

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vb...&articleid=131

ok so useing the timeing light to check cam when you do it are you just looking for the hole on the gear right

[663csx-t]

ok i see the hole on cam car dies after pulling the plug on the temp sensor i was holding the throtle open do it but if i let off it stalls timeing looks good

[turbovanman²]

ok i see the hole on cam car dies after pulling the plug on the temp sensor i was holding the throtle open do it but if i let off it stalls timeing looks good

Yes, if you see the hole thru the timing cover, its good, just remember it won't be straight up as you have to add in the 12 deg timing or if you have an adjustable light, you take out the 12 deg.

Some do that, you have to hold the throttle open then slowly bring it down to idle, sometimes you have to do it a few times and then it will settle.

[663csx-t]

Yes, if you see the hole thru the timing cover, its good, just remember it won't be straight up as you have to add in the 12 deg timing or if you have an adjustable light, you take out the 12 deg.

Some do that, you have to hold the throttle open then slowly bring it down to idle, sometimes you have to do it a few times and then it will settle.

ya no cover on when i see the mark it is at the 3rd line back from the front of the vaule cover so the timing is good whats else can i try anybody

[vntshadow]

Does it have a good idle? What rpm does it idle at? Check HEP yet? If those are in spec, then check intermediate shaft to oil pump gears.

[663csx-t]

Does it have a good idle? What rpm does it idle at? Check HEP yet? If those are in spec, then check intermediate shaft to oil pump gears.

the idle seems good...its sits at about 900 to 1000.but some times car dose not want to start that easy after running for a while i have to give it some gas

[663csx-t]

what about code 34 would that do any of this

[vntshadow]

what about code 34 would that do any of this

I do believe that would be the idle air control, which would have no effect other then idle. Clear codes(disconnect battery/scanner)and drive it normal and see if code comes back. Idling at 900-1000 would be normal, if not a tad bit high. My car idles between 900-1000 also.
The problem your explaining has to do with timing. HEP is in distributor. Remove dist. cap and inspect. Look for a loose(plastic rivets loosen) metal cage on the shaft and inspect the HEP with the 2 wires coming off of it.
Read more on how to verify timing through using all 3 timing belt pulleys and transmission bell housing mark.
If you have a timing light, you can remove distibutor(re-time when replacing) to look down and verify that the gears on the intermediate shaft and oil pump aren't worn down. While you have timing covers off and verifing timing belt line-up, you can turn intermediate shaft to look at the gears through distibutor hole. If excessive wear on gears than this could be your problem. You'll need a new are reman. shaft and new oil pump. If gears have a nice wear in the middle of the gear teeth, then your good. Just be sure to inspect whole circumference of both gears. I had this problem and was only on half of the gears. This is a longshot prognosis, but it will eliminate that as the problem.

Doesn't really sound like you know how the timing belt sets up, so read info on these forums to help you out.
I do recommend removing timing covers(top/bottom) and bottom crank pulley w/belts to verify correct base timing. Having distibutor out will also allow you to check and make sure oil pump/distributor slot is parallel with the block.
good luck

[663csx-t]

sound like fun thanks for your help and i check the hep and no bad wires the hep is new( i forgot i bought a new one) not even 4 hundred miles on it

[Dusty_Duster]

Hmmm. Check your vacuum lines for a leak.

[jamesmonty]

Doesn't really sound like you know how the timing belt sets up, so read info on these forums to help you out.
I do recommend removing timing covers(top/bottom) and bottom crank pulley w/belts to verify correct base timing. Having distibutor out will also allow you to check and make sure oil pump/distributor slot is parallel with the block.
good luck

I agree with this. Just checking the cam gear will not tell you anything about the other two. Start with setting the #1 cyl to TDC (rotor pointing to #1 spark plug wire, timing mark at 0, and pull the #1 plug to verify the piston is up). Then check the cam, I highly recomend you get a timing belt cover to make sure the cam is correct. One or two teeth off will cause what you are describing. Then check the int. shaft. Two ways to do that, one is to remave the waterpump and crank pully the the lower timing cover. Using the mini mopar guide to line the crank and int shaft up. Then the trick is getting the timing belt back on and keeping everything lined up. You are going to have to verify all this before you can rule it out as the problem. I am sure if you are stuck or confused someone would be happy to help out! It took me several times to get this process down, but now it's pretty easy.

[vntshadow]

Reading back through yor past posts, you've had quite an ordeal with this car.
You need to get some things straight.
1st, Is your computer set up for your application? If you don't wire in a air temp sensor, then maybe one of the vendors can make 1 for your application without a air temp sensor circuit. Do you have +20 injectors?
2nd, verify and make sure your cam, intermediate shaft and crank timing belt are lined up.
3rd, besides driving under load, does it drive normal, does it blow black smoke out the tailpipe, are the spark plugs black ? Need more info on how the car reacts to certain conditions. Do you have an air/fuel meter of any sort?
4th, read more and more on how to's. The more you now on how our engines work, the easier it will be to diagnose problems.

[turbovanman²]

What's your idle vacuum?

I agree with this. Just checking the cam gear will not tell you anything about the other two. Start with setting the #1 cyl to TDC (rotor pointing to #1 spark plug wire, timing mark at 0, and pull the #1 plug to verify the piston is up). Then check the cam, I highly recomend you get a timing belt cover to make sure the cam is correct. One or two teeth off will cause what you are describing. Then check the int. shaft. Two ways to do that, one is to remave the waterpump and crank pully the the lower timing cover. Using the mini mopar guide to line the crank and int shaft up. Then the trick is getting the timing belt back on and keeping everything lined up. You are going to have to verify all this before you can rule it out as the problem. I am sure if you are stuck or confused someone would be happy to help out! It took me several times to get this process down, but now it's pretty easy.

Doesn't matter how his gears are aligned as long as he can set the dist at 12 deg and the cam is correctly set.