1st question: where can I buy the special factory tool to tension the timing belt?
2nd question: How are you guys tensioning the timing belts on your 2.2s with out the special tool.
thanks,
clay
1st question: where can I buy the special factory tool to tension the timing belt?
2nd question: How are you guys tensioning the timing belts on your 2.2s with out the special tool.
thanks,
clay
Clay
1986 GLH-T - Flat black......... learn it, love it, LIVE IT!
1988 LeBaron GTC Turbo
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I got mine a Murrays Auto Parts.Originally Posted by Clay
I've used a large wrench using it's own weight to set the tension. Honestly, the tool isn't all that great and the tension isn't THAT critical. The weight on the end isn't that heavy and it has to overcome the friction of the tensioner mounting bolt and such. What I usually do is put it on there, put some torque on the crank until it moves and watch the tensioner's lowest position. Then I hold it in the spot, plus another 5 or 10 degrees and tighten down the bolt.Originally Posted by Clay
As long as something else isn't out of whack, like bad intermediate shaft bearings or a worn out tensioner, you can also watch how the belt rides on the sprocket while it is running. If it stays close to the block, then it's probably not tight enough. If rides all the way on the outside, then it is probably too tight. You can't really get it centered perfectly, but if it is riding hard on either lip of the tensioner (especially if it squeaks), it isn't right.
Bottom line.... It doesn't take much tension
Ken Adler....
Cars, A few (9)
Well, no one in town had a tensioner in stock, so I ordered one from Napa.
I was able to re-tension the belt, it was just hard to get anything on the big cam nut. I ended up using some thin needle nose vise grips.
ive always set the belt tension on these timing belts so that you can turn the belt about 90 degrees, and so far, so good.
thanks,
clay
Clay
1986 GLH-T - Flat black......... learn it, love it, LIVE IT!
1988 LeBaron GTC Turbo
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+1 for Ken's comment. It doesn't take much, but if you are installing a new belt it pays to check the tension again sometime down the road. I had one setup by the tool that got pretty loose after a few thousand miles.
I use a crescent wrench to apply the tension while tightening down the 15mm bolt.
I have the tool got it at a swap meet at Rt. 66 Mopar day a couple years ago for $5
I use it more as a wrench tho to give teh belt a little more tension, with new belts I like then a little on the tight side and if it sings I loosen it up a tad.
How do i measure it? after tensioning it, and rotating thr motor at least one complete revolution, I take the front part of the belt between the cam and intermediate shaft and twist it to about 1/4 turn or perpendicular to the belts regular plane. It should be kindas tight to get it to rotate that far, if it is too easy, make it tighter, if it barely rotates 1/8 turn, it is too tight. takes practice...
+1 to checking the tension after the first 500 miles.
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I got the tool from Relentless Racing a while back. Before I had it, I would just use a channel locking pliers and set the tension by feel while locking it down. Never had a problem doing it that way either.
When I use the tool to set the tension, I install the tool so that it's hanging off the tensioner hex with the handle/weight pulling on the end of the tool governing belt tension. Then I a tighten it a little more so the tool handle is parallel with the gound and tighten the 15mm center bolt.
If you really want to get the belt tension just right, you can leave off the upper timing cover. Adjust the tension so that the belt rides centered on the cam sprocket with the engine running. If the belt is too loose, it will ride on the passenger side of the sprocket. Too tight and it will ride on the driver side edge of the cam sprocket and will likely whine.
You are backwards there... Loose rides to tthe inside (VC side). tight to the passenger (outside) side and whines.
Ken Adler....
Cars, A few (9)