Brakes Won't Bleed

[TheCanadian007]

Hey guys, I upgraded my stock Horizon brakes to Shelby specs; 10.5'' vented front discs (stock ATE calipers) and rear 220mm drums. I have new rubber hoses in the front, new Daytona master cylinder (for a rear disc application - wanted more power), new front calipers, new rear cylinders and hard line going to the cylinders but I'm stumped. (Bleeding was also attempted with stock Omni master cylinder, to the same reaction.)

I try and try and try but no brake pressure. I bled the system diagonally, I bled the master cylinder exactly as described and went around the wheels 3 times but still have no brake pressure.

Any ideas what the culprit could be? I have brand new hardware everywhere and no leaks, but there must be some way for air to enter the system.

HELP!

Thanks, TheCanadian

[cordes]

Calipers on the wrong side of the car?

[Polygon]

Calipers on the wrong side of the car?

Yep, check to see where the bleeder screws are. If they're on the bottom the caliper is on the wrong side and will never bleed. The bleeder screws need to be on the top on every caliper.

[TheCanadian007]

I came to this same conclusion in my thread on the other forum. It appears I've purchased two of the same caliper! (Bleeder screw on driver's side faces down) Would this really account for no brake pedal pressure whatsoever? (Pedal goes straight to floor) and for air in all the lines? (Rear lines included)

[cordes]

I came to this same conclusion in my thread on the other forum. It appears I've purchased two of the same caliper! (Bleeder screw on driver's side faces down) Would this really account for no brake pedal pressure whatsoever? (Pedal goes straight to floor) and for air in all the lines? (Rear lines included)

I'm not sure if that would account for all of it, but it's the first place I would start.

[raccoon]

totally would, i lost a rear wheel cylinder once and i dont care what Chrysler says about its cross system when you loose one you loose it all.

[Polygon]

I agree. I don't know if it would account for all of the pedal travel. However, you will never get that air out of the calipers with the bleeder screw on the bottom as the air is trapped at the top of the caliper.

So, I would start with getting the right calipers on it and then go from there. Also, you checked for any leaks I assume and not just puddles on the ground. If you replaced any lines it can be a real ----- getting them to seal.

[Big_P]

What you technically could do is remove the caliper with the upside-down bleeder, and stick a 2x4 in there where the rotor would go, with the caliper bleeder facing up and bleed it that way.

Or you could go get the right caliper

[Polygon]

What you technically could do is remove the caliper with the upside-down bleeder, and stick a 2x4 in there where the rotor would go, with the caliper bleeder facing up and bleed it that way.

Or you could go get the right caliper

Haha genius!

[2.216VTurbo]

You can bleed that caliper on the car, just pull the carrier bolts out and rotate it so the bleeder is 'up' Been there before

[turbovanman²]

Did you bench bleed the master? if you didn't, its going to take forever to bleed it on the car. +4 on the caliper causing alot of problems or most of it.

[TheCanadian007]

Master cylinder was bled using the kit (two plastic barb fittings and lines) that came with it. No more bubbles were present in the reservoir and I saw no more bubbles in the lines so I considered it bled. (Took around 20 minutes or so to do it.)

I shall fiddle with the caliper and/or grab a proper one from the junkyard.

[TheCanadian007]

The problem was rectified by bleeding the caliper with the screw facing upwards. Thanks, guys!

[cordes]

The problem was rectified by bleeding the caliper with the screw facing upwards. Thanks, guys!

Glad to hear that you have it figured out. Few things are worse than brake problems.