Removing REALLY rusted bolts...any advice?

[Subliminal]

Hey guys,

I've been doing a tranny swap on my Cummins truck. I've got everything ready to remove from my donor truck, except about 4 bolts on the crossmember.

This donor truck was an upstate NY truck, and has a nice protective layer of surface rust on everything.

This bolts have what SHOULD be an 18mm nut and a 15mm head...but they are so...weathered?..that the bolt heads all seem to fit the wrench different. Some are out of shape, some are too small for the 15, but too big for the 14.

Anyway, I've PB Blasted these things about 5 times in the last week, but I'm having one helluva time, and I'm looking for a better method than cutting the damned things off...because some are going to be hard to get the sawzall in...and I don't have a torch (other than my little plumber dealy).

Anyway, figured I'd come here and ask...some of you guys have to have some ideas!

Thanks

[raccoon]

got some SAE sockets? hammer on a 5/16 or whatever is close.

also apply heat, even a propane torch will help. watch out for gas...

[RoadWarrior222]

Time for some special recipe? ATF/Acetone mix... http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...5&postcount=31

A very good tip if you've never heard of it, is hammering at things while you use penetrant on them. This is because the vibrations open up tiny cracks which wick in the penetrant.

I pick up bags/boxes of scrap sockets at yard sales, and when I find heads or bolts rusted undersized, I get one of the closest undersize sockets and hammer the thing on over the head. Have had to do that a couple of times on control arm pivot bolts.

Nasty buggers are the bolts that are rusted into a bushing, the bushing usually absorbs all the freaking impact when you try hammering, impact driver or air impact wrench.

If they're the wrong angle for a sawzall, you can get a mandrel and cutting disk for your drill and probably get at them with that. If you're patient you can use a dremel type tool on them too.

Don't underestimate the usefulness of a sharp coldchisel either, you can split nuts, or get bite on the edge of a bolt head enough to drive it round.

I've done all sorts, filed or ground flats on heads, filed slots, drilled the head off (Need a bit about as wide as the bolt and center it good) drilled two holes close together then rammed the impact flat driver bit into it, drilled two holes spaced apart and knocked rods into them....

There's also a type of vice grip you can get that's got the angles to grip 3 sides of a nut, doesn't rely on the corners still being there. I've got one of those and it comes in useful, just put it on real tight and pound the piss out of it.

Yeah, everything here is usually rusted solid so I get a bit inventive.

[RoadWarrior222]

... and don't forget... you can usually snap anything off with a long enough cheater pipe

[RoadWarrior222]

Oh, btw, using a scissor jack to apply pressure down onto a bolt head to stop the socket skipping is a good trick too.

[Subliminal]

Wow...now there's a reply! Thanks!

The issue I'm having is that the problem area (head of the bolt) is actually up on the frame rail, above the crossmember...getting a wrench in there is fun enough, much less an actual hammer.

Maybe I'll just cut and grind the friggin things. PITA...holding up my whole project!

[RoadWarrior222]

Can you reach both sides of the frame rail?

If so I would rig a "double handled" wrench, best would be a T-bar with short cheaters on it, so you can get a good grip each side... then from underneath it, one hand each side, half hang on it and twist. That way your weight is keeping the socket down, and you've got the power of both arms.

The down pressure on a head is often important on rusted heads to break them free because they often rust in a taper, so they're say 14mm at the top and 15mm at the bottom, but whether you use a tight 15, or hammer a 14 on, the taper still tends to try to push the socket off when you put torque on it.

[x.Gen]

+1 on HIGH heat, and vibration (impact wrench or socket has usually worked for me, but with your inability to reach it...), even if you can tap the bolt with a punch or something.

this is a method I haven't used myself, but heard of on Chop Cut Rebuild, or one of those shows...copied from elsewhere on the net -


Melted Candle Wax on a Hot Bolt
One tried and true method is heat and candle wax. Use a small propane torch to heat the bolt until it is hot enough to melt candle wax. Put a candle on top of the bolt so the bolt liquefies some of the wax. The heat will pull the liquid wax down onto the threads of the bolt. Wait until the bolt cools off a bit, then use a wrench to loosen it. Before using this method, make sure there are no flammable materials near by, or anything that will be damaged by the heat.



Read more at Suite101: How to Remove a Rusty Bolt: Get a Frozen or Rusted Bolt Out In One Piece http://homerenorepair.suite101.com/a...#ixzz0oUDVkth4

[mark]

this is a price for 2 kits, but i bought one just to have in case i ever needed a torch, will it work in a pinch probably, but never haveing to need a torch i cant justify investing in a decent setup, so Im hoping this would do in a pinch...

http://doitbest.com/Propane+torches+...sku-314943.dib

i got my kit for like $60 from the depot of homes.

["Top Fuel" Bender]

I'll bring over my torch if you want to let go of the 4x4 parts I need

[Subliminal]

Ha! I'd almost take you up on that...except I found someone who wants the entire donor truck, sans what I'm taking.

I used a cut off wheel on my 4.5 inch grinder...worked great!

Now if I could only get the tranny to separate from the clutch housing, I'd be good. GRRR!