GLHS 937 Restoration Project

[135sohc]

I built my motor 3 years ago with the Mopar bearings and I didn't remember them being that much but they weren't cheap by any means. The dealer I was using didn't give much of a discount either so I think they may be on their way to NS1.

Jacking the price through the roof and then finally pulling the plug on it seems to be the norm for stuff thats going away, been there and felt the sticker shock more than once. Not to hi-jack the thread anymore but I'll also add this little tid-bit the local dealers parts guru told me, when a part is only stocked at the Milwaukee depot its on its final inventory drawdown and will become NS1 when inventory is depleted. Ask when ordering where its coming from and maybe think about ordering a 2nd one if thats the case.

Well to be honest, these lasted 120K miles, so I may just get the stuff that is local and possibly buy a set for a future rebuild. I need to get a common block and build one up from scratch with some good pistons, rings, all new bearings, etc. I hate having to make stuff work to drive my car, but it always seems the easiest thing to do at the time.

The $20 clevite/sealed power set that everyone sells is probably the same exact stuff chrysler used originally. Dont crank the timing belt tension down like a drum and they will last nearly forever. The 2.2 tbi in my DD Shadow will be rolling 250k in the next couple of days and until the most recent belt replacement I'd never even pulled the shaft out for a look-see inside. Bearings looked great and it went right back in.

[cordes]

It is amazing how little tension the proper tool puts on the timing belt. I was pretty shocked the first time I used it.

[Reeves]

Subscribed!

Jon,
What I do for belt alignment/pump alignment:

First, remove timing belt from sprockets.

2nd, I set TDC with a dial indicator. If your head is still on, then you can use the timing window in the transmission. USUALLY TDC is with the flywheel mark JUST AT the beginning of the window (before the actual "0" mark).

I then take a dremel with cutoff wheel installed and make a cut in the crank timing belt sprocket and a cut in the front crank seal retainer that line up with each other. I put these cuts in a way that you can see them very clearly from the top. Now you will always know where #1 TDC is at the crank.

Now, line up the factory dots on the intermediate shaft with the crank sprocket at TDC still. You can do this one of two ways. If you have the oil pump in already, then you can fiddle with pulling the intermediate shaft out just until the teeth don't engage with the pump any longer, and then make a tooth jump CW or CCW which ever way you need to, or you if you have the pump out, you can pull it down until the teeth no longer engage, and then turn the intermediate shaft CW or CCW. What you want is the dot on the crank sprocket lined up with the dot on the intermediate shaft sprocket and the slot in the oil pump parallel with the crank. You get the hang of this very quickly and it only takes 1 or 2 tries after you are a pro!

Now with the dots lined up, and the oil pump slot parallel with crank, I whip out the dremel, and make a slot on the intermediate shaft sprocket, and a slot on the front crank seal retainer once again that line up with each other and are visible from the top.

If you don't run a timing cover on the bottom, you can now line up all your sh*t without ever having to jack up the car, take the wheel off, or even take the crank pulley off!!!

[minigts]

Subscribed!

Jon,
What I do for belt alignment/pump alignment:

First, remove timing belt from sprockets.

2nd, I set TDC with a dial indicator. If your head is still on, then you can use the timing window in the transmission. USUALLY TDC is with the flywheel mark JUST AT the beginning of the window (before the actual "0" mark).

I then take a dremel with cutoff wheel installed and make a cut in the crank timing belt sprocket and a cut in the front crank seal retainer that line up with each other. I put these cuts in a way that you can see them very clearly from the top. Now you will always know where #1 TDC is at the crank.

Now, line up the factory dots on the intermediate shaft with the crank sprocket at TDC still. You can do this one of two ways. If you have the oil pump in already, then you can fiddle with pulling the intermediate shaft out just until the teeth don't engage with the pump any longer, and then make a tooth jump CW or CCW which ever way you need to, or you if you have the pump out, you can pull it down until the teeth no longer engage, and then turn the intermediate shaft CW or CCW. What you want is the dot on the crank sprocket lined up with the dot on the intermediate shaft sprocket and the slot in the oil pump parallel with the crank. You get the hang of this very quickly and it only takes 1 or 2 tries after you are a pro!

Now with the dots lined up, and the oil pump slot parallel with crank, I whip out the dremel, and make a slot on the intermediate shaft sprocket, and a slot on the front crank seal retainer once again that line up with each other and are visible from the top.

If you don't run a timing cover on the bottom, you can now line up all your sh*t without ever having to jack up the car, take the wheel off, or even take the crank pulley off!!!

Thanks Reeves, I may implement this when I go to time my car again if I remember to do so.


Well I got some work done on the motor. Turns out the bearing for the intermediate/auxiliary shaft were KINDA worn as you can see in the pictures below. Amazingly the shaft has almost no wear, well zero I can tell from the lack of good bearings in it. I also saw a lot of carbon build up in the pistons, but the wear on the cylinders looks pretty good. The head looks descent too, just stained. I'm sure if I dropped it in a tank and had it cleaned it look alright, but no real reason to at this time.

I also went ahead and pulled the head to swap out the turbo coolant and oil lines to the stainless steel ones I got a while back. The oil supply is definitely leaking as I found puddles of oil on top of the transmission case. All the times I saw the shiny stuff down there, I was washing the engine or it had rained and I never really noticed it being oil. All I can say is replacing the stainless steel lines is TEN times easier than trying to do anything with the factory ones. Those are a pain.

I also decided to go ahead and put in the roller cam and check the lifters to see which one was bad. I'll give you one guess from the picture below. I'll be inserting a roller cam, rockers and lifters along with an adjustable square tooth cam gear to correct the difference.

I pulled the radiator out and will take that to get it pressure tested and repaired as needed, I just hope it doesn't cost a lot. The transmission I plan to run by John's place in Millington (hope he doesn't read this before I call him!) to get the differential looked at and hopefully shimmed correctly so I can drop a spec'ed 525 back in with an LSD! WOOHOO. I'll take pics of that and post up later.

Anyways, more to come as I reassemble the car this week.

[Aries_Turbo]

looks good. well looks good other than the fact that you are hell bent on using 525 trannies.

Brian

[supercrackerbox]

I'd like more info on the tranny . . . I'm out of useable 555s.

[minigts]

looks good. well looks good other than the fact that you are hell bent on using 525 trannies.

Brian

Don't worry, I'm working on a 555 hybrid, well my tranny guy is. *wink* Cordes *wink*

I'd like more info on the tranny . . . I'm out of useable 555s.

I picked up an LSD from Bill's place back in July after SDAC and would like to use it while I have the transmission out. I'll post up some pics later, but it came with a girdle as well, so hopefully that will be overkill.

[supercrackerbox]

What's the final drive going to be?

[cordes]

What's the final drive going to be?

Of his current trans or the one I'm making? His current trans is 3.56, and I'm trying to find a 520 3.50FD donor so we don't have to machine his ring gear from the 525.

[86seeS]

looking good i think i might go with a rod shifted 520 out of a voyager 3.85 fg

[cordes]

looking good i think i might go with a rod shifted 520 out of a voyager 3.85 fg

Make sure you do some calculations before you do. Check out the individual gear ratios in that trans which you will be multiplying by the high FD. Wow.

[minigts]

Alright, I have been working on the car the past few months. I have gotten a few things done over the past few months, but didn't get a chance to document anything. I recently pulled the transmission to replace the clutch and that has turned into a full on overhaul of the engine. Pulled the pan to find the auxiliary shaft bearing in the pan. Once I found that, I replaced the bearing, seal, oil pan, oil pump, oil sump and crank seal while I had everything apart.

I also ended up pulling the head to replace the oil supply line to the turbo. When I pulled the transmission I found puddles of oil on the top, which kinda explains the oil leak. While the head was out, I went ahead and put in the roller cam, roller rockers, newER lifters and an adjustable square tooth cam gear. I'm contemplating installing the 3" exhaust kit I had on the blue car just so it's being used. That would involve pulling the swingvalve from the other car though, and I don't know if I'd be able to remove it now without having issues with the bolts (12 point).

The only thing I have left to do is finish installing the coolant and oil supply lines and then I can put the head on. The big deal (well I think so anyways) was the installation of the Phantom LSD and clean up of the transmission. John Roberts was nice enough to undertake the work and really clean it up. I guess I have a 3.86 gear (based on the tag) too, which doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. The other 525 ran about 2900 RPM around 70 mph on the speedo. This one runs about 3-400 RPM less. Anyways, John took some pictures after he got done. I'll snap a few later of what I've done and what I have left. I think tomorrow I'll get the drivetrain finished and power clean the engine bay. There's tons of fluids all caked over the K frame, firewall and everywhere else. It's just a mess.

Here are the pics of the tranny finished.

[cordes]

I'm not sure if it's just the pic or not, but that looks like it could be a 3.56FD ring gear. I guess I would need to look at it in person to be sure though.

[minigts]

Well that is the ring gear from the one we got from Bill's place. John just pulled the LSD out and put it in the original GLHS.

[cordes]

Well that is the ring gear from the one we got from Bill's place. John just pulled the LSD out and put it in the original GLHS.

You mean the ring gear on the shelby diff? I did that one even have a ring gear on it?

[minigts]

Well the picture of the diff with the ring gear is the one from Bill's place. I have no idea what ring gear is on that one. John pulled out the spider gears and the LSD dealio from the one in the picture, pulled the diff out of the GLHS, pulled those spider gears out and swapped parts.

And to answer your question, the one from Bill's place did have a ring gear on it. What it is, I don't know. I can bring it this weekend if you'd like.

[minigts]

Man I can't tell, but does the tag say 3.56 or 3.86? It looks like 3.86, but I thought that high of a gear was a 3.87? I can't tell...

[cordes]

Man I can't tell, but does the tag say 3.56 or 3.86? It looks like 3.86, but I thought that high of a gear was a 3.87? I can't tell...

Looking at it again, that could easily be an 8 just as well as a 5. I may try and put together a tooth count to FD ID thread.

[minigts]

Looking at it again, that could easily be an 8 just as well as a 5. I may try and put together a tooth count to FD ID thread.

Well did they make a 3.86 gear though? I always get that stuff confused, mainly because I don't mess with this stuff too often. You want me to bring the diff to the Cheese Festival?

[cordes]

Well did they make a 3.86 gear though? I always get that stuff confused, mainly because I don't mess with this stuff too often. You want me to bring the diff to the Cheese Festival?

No, it should have been 3.87. You can bring it if you want.