Since nobody wanted to buy my Neon I traded it for this thing. Not sure what I'm going to do with it as of yet but... ehh... it's kind of cool. First RWD car I've ever had. Anyway, enjoy.
It needs some work but overall it's not too bad. Engine is a pain in the --- to work on compared to my Outbacks though... Anyway, just wanted to share.
Not bad I always loved the looks of those things.
I vote to blow up the engine and build a 4G64 for it. Of course I am not sure how you will drive that drill bit if you change the engine!
Oh and turn the muffler over... Why do people insist on pointing them up like that?
Is it to make noise and put soot on their cars?
-Rich
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is that a Conquest or a Starion? (same thing). But, they only imported 159 Starions in 1989, so, if its an 89 Starion, you have a very rare bird there.
Also, is it an SHP (wider wheels and adjustable struts?)
But...nice looking car. Need any help, let me know, I have no life and have read a lot about them so that I can keep mine running...lol
Also...they're great engines. Keep up on it and it'll be plenty of fun. They're pretty torquey compared to the 4G motors (stock vs stock). Kinda like a 2.5 vs a 2.2.
But...oil pressure looks great. Looks like its had the balance shafts removed (a + ) and...make sure before you try to up the boost at all, you get a real boost gauge. The stock one is electric and sucks. It'll show you something different everytime you floor it.
Also...the fuel injection system is very easy to understand once you start working on it. Hell, my car acts up, I can usually narrow it down to a couple things before I even look at it...lol Much easier to understand then the 10,000 sensors of todays cars. These have a:
MAF - Mass Air Flow Sensor
CTS - Coolant Temp Sensor
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor
ISC - Idle Speed Controller
O2 - obvious...lol
and a knock sensor. Thats it. The computer controls nothing more than fuel. The big silver box by the battery turns the timing back when it detects knock.
It is a 2 injector system consisting of a primary and secondary. The secondary only kicks on under boost above around 2500 rpms. They often go bad and leak causing all sorts of issues, and you can't get them anymore...therefore the blowing up issues since fuel gets in the oil and spins a bearing. You can make GM injectors work without much hassle if yours end up going bad.
Thats its
Last edited by strang3majik; 05-12-2010 at 01:14 AM.
To be honest I THINK it's a Conquest... I'll have to look at the title and see. It doesn't say Conquest or Starion on the car anywhere so I'm not sure which it is.
The drill bit was a temporary plug for some emissions crap I ripped out of it. It had a failed EGR valve among other things. Removed and destroyed. It'll eventually get catcon removal performed as it ran so rich when I got it that you could SMELL the fuel. The muffler is pretty ugly but that's what came on it. Eventually will be rectified as well. It DOES stutter and so forth. I'll have to go thru some things and attempt to figure out why.
WHat GM injectors can be used on here? I'm almost positive one of them is shot causing it to stutter and blow a LOT of soot out the exhaust. I need to get this fixed so I can sell it...
The good runnin ones can be fun to drive. Esp in wet conditions
You should be able to tell by the serial number. I believe second digit would be a C for Chrysler or D or B for Dodge. If that is a factory installed hood scoop then you have the Starion. The Japonese version always had the overtop styling add-ons that were popular in Japan at the time. I always thought the Chrysler versions had a cleaner look.
Nice get though. I had a bunch of fun in Conquests. They are a strong performance car.
the only starion/conquest to ever have a hood scoop was 1983. Every other year they were both the same exact car minus the badging and the rear hatch glass/tails/and front grille. On a Starion, it says turbo at the top of the hatch glass. Yours doesn't look like it has that, but, doesn't mean someone never changed the hatch. But, then again, you have Conquest tail lights, and a painted grille (starions were matte black).Originally Posted by ljbprrfmof
If it is a Chrysler Conquest, the vin # would start as JJ. If it is a Starion, it would start with a JA.
Don't just go and buy injectors, as theres a couple things that could cause this. But, the GM injectors are Delphi 65lb and 95lb injectors, and you need to have the top hat bored out to fit them and need to get longer bolts and spacers to use them.
But...it could be a simple TPS/ISC out of adjustment, a bad coolant temp sensor (mine did this), or a bad 02.
If the o2 is shut off, or completley bad, the computer defaults to full rich. When the coolant temp sensor is bad, is tells the computer the car is -50*F, therefore, pretty friggen rich...lol
Also, TPS/ISC out of adjustment is the same as any other car.
An easy way to tell is to go to radio shack and buy a 12v LED with two alligator clips (probably $5 altogether). Then, open the glove box door and look straight up at the top of it (there will be a plug pointing down).
here...just follow this...lol It won't read right until the car is at operating temp.
http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/i...howtopic=28043
If there are no blinks, then...its probably the injectors. I'd still try a free TPS/ISC reset though.
The following procedure must be followed to the letter for best results.
01 - Engine must be at operating temp.
02 - After engine is warmed-up, turn it off.
03 - Turn key to the ignition on position.
04 - Connect digital voltmeter to #2 and #3 terminals on TPS sensor.
05 - Turn TPS all the way counterclockwise and snug bolts.
06 - Disconnect ISC motor connector next to firewall and wait 10 seconds.
07 - Turn TPS clockwise slowly to set voltage.
08 - Set voltage to 0.48 - 0.52 (optimal = 0.50).
09 - Tighten TPS bolts without changing setting achieved in step #08.
10 - Depress accelerator fully - meter will show up to 5.0V. This value is directly affected by the setting obtained in step #08.
11 - Loosen accelerator cable.
12 - Start engine.
13 - Set idle speed to 750 RPM's.
14 - Shut off engine.
15 - Tighten accelerator cable - 1mm free play.
16 - Plug ISC motor connector.
17 - Turn ignition to the on position for 10 seconds.
18 - Shut ignition off.
19 - Start engine.
20 - Idle will go up slightly (100 - 150 RPM's - this is normal).
21 - ISC and TPS are now set.
Note: Be aware that the ignition is turned on in step #03 and is kept "on", until step #14.
oh...and speaking of hoodscoops...you're not leaving that one on there, are you?
Fixed it's issues today. Damn injectors were hooked up wrong... it was using the bigger injector all the time and using the smaller one as well when boosting... so now it's all fixed and running GREAT.
Well, since money is tough it'll be getting listed on ebay soon unless someone here wants it.
Glad you didn't have to buy injectors.. When still available they were dealer only and PRICEY! I told ya at the meeting it had something to do with them though..(though I did think you needed a new one from the symptoms.. Oops!)
Wish I could buy that thing.. It's on the list. Top 5 actually..
First would be to find an unmolested White/Blue 81 Z28, Blue/silver 71-73 Mach1(or BOSS), Baldwin Motion 73 Chevelle SS, Virtually any #'d Shelby Dodge, and a Conquest/Starion Widebody..
Pretty good on a list of thousands!
Makes me wish i had traded my neon for something cooler..
Id like to grab a bunch of starion stuff to turbo my executive sedan.. but that one looks too good to take apart.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
yes...please don't kill another one
My friend has had a few of those, A white one with black leather interior very nice car and fairly quick and rwd burnouts and powerslides was fun, Then when I was 15 I messed around with a 27 year old stripper that had a Red one like that she was going to let me drive it to school and move in with her till my jealous dad put the kibosh on thatShoulda seen my friends faces when they saw her with me hahahaha... damnit
But ya anyways I would keep it and sell your scoobaru those are hard to find in good shape. i know where 3 or 4 are right now tho one is a Metallic blue Widebody with no wheels just chilling in an apartment complex so hopefully it wont end up in a Jy cuz the blue ones are rare as hell aint they?
The light mettalic blue or the dark?My friend has had a few of those, A white one with black leather interior very nice car and fairly quick and rwd burnouts and powerslides was fun, Then when I was 15 I messed around with a 27 year old stripper that had a Red one like that she was going to let me drive it to school and move in with her till my jealous dad put the kibosh on that
But ya anyways I would keep it and sell your scoobaru those are hard to find in good shape. i know where 3 or 4 are right now tho one is a Metallic blue Widebody with no wheels just chilling in an apartment complex so hopefully it wont end up in a Jy cuz the blue ones are rare as hell aint they?
Both are rare....the light blue (fiji b;ue) is a nice color. The dark (balt blue) is the rarest, though.
and...I hope you kept that strippers contact info for after your 18th birthday...lol
"Then when I was 15 I messed around with a 27 year old stripper that had a Red one like that she was going to let me drive it to school and move in with her till my jealous dad put the kibosh on that"
Wait!!! What?
What lol? I had a peruvian uncle with um lets say lots of friends in various places and, Well the girl liked me I guess haha Her name was Sherrie and she was a tall skinny blonde with a badazz car what teen boy is going to turn that down?
Nice.
Me... I like em young.. REALLL young.....
(thats what she said)
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
Eh, I use my Subaru wagons pretty much every day. The Starion/Conquest is the one that's going to make me some money. Besides, rather have it go to a good home than sit in my driveway and do nothing.
want an impreza outback in trade?
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