Laser XE coming back

[ShelGame]

I believe I can check out a sonic tester from the lab at work. I'll check next week. If I can, I'll measure the wall of the 2 Tall Deck blocks I have (supposed to be thicker) and the 2-3 common blocks and maybe even the early T1 blocks I have.

[rx2mazda]

So which Block did you end up using? Late TBI or TIII?

[Warren Stramer]

I believe I can check out a sonic tester from the lab at work. I'll check next week. If I can, I'll measure the wall of the 2 Tall Deck blocks I have (supposed to be thicker) and the 2-3 common blocks and maybe even the early T1 blocks I have.

Good, But if you do that, MAKE SURE you calibrate the tester to the sonic velocity of each block you test to make sure it repeats and matches what you measure on a test spot to within .005 of your digital caliper.
I actually measured every sq.in. of most of the bores. Yes it took a long time.

[Warren Stramer]

Okay Warren,
Looking at these pistons has me scratching my head a bit. Don't have a real good look straight on but pretty much look like flat-tops to me. Valve reliefs don't look very large for .600 lift camshaft. Can't remember if your running g-head or swirl. Tops of pistons look alot like 8V TBI (lol). So does this mean that pistons are WAY down the hole or is compression ratio WAY higher than normal? Perhaps a combination of the two? Or are these all secrets? Asymmetrical piston. First I've seen on TD motor.

Todd, Pistons are only .014 down, static ratio is 8.65:1, piston is dished.

[135sohc]

I can find no positive methode for determining for SURE if a block was cast in Mexico or anywhere else for that matter, just internet conjecture

.
its stamped/dot matrix 'printed' on the bellhousing end. The service manual gives a breakdown of what the code means.

[Reaper1]

Mexican cast blocks have an "C" embossed on the front of the engine on the fairly blank spot underneath the distributor between the oil filter adapter and the front engine mount. I've seen a few myself. I will admit I did not get any codes off of the engines, but I am pretty sure the information behind that marking came from a very reliable inside source.

[Shadow]

Some Great info, as always Warren!

Now if someone in the community could get an accurate sonic map of the SRT 2.4 block we would have an idea of how important cyl wall thickness is and wether or not it will limit the block as some of us reach for the not too far off stars............

[Warren Stramer]

Mexican cast blocks have an "N" embossed on the front of the engine on the fairly blank spot underneath the distributor between the oil filter adapter and the front engine mount. I've seen a few myself. I will admit I did not get any codes off of the engines, but I am pretty sure the information behind that marking came from a very reliable inside source.

That is the confusing part. The two late 2.5L common blocks I have with the EIN# S stamping (Satillo Mex.) do not have any big letter embossed on the front of the block, nor does the "S" TIII block, no embossed letter.
Half of the "T" (Trenton) TII blocks have A big B embossed below the dist. and the other three have nothing there.
I have also read that the Mexico block supposedly should have a C embossed below the dist. couldnt prove it by my findings.
The TIII Satillo block I have is nice, but the two 2.5's Satillo's are a tighter, smoother casting, even though they are from the same core.

[85boostbox]

Maybe they could keep tolerances tight as what Mexico blocks are known for. But that doesn't mean that all the metals were the exact same. Mean as the curing process or that particular batch of metal.

[135sohc]

That is the confusing part. The two late 2.5L common blocks I have with the EIN# S stamping (Satillo Mex.) do not have any big letter embossed on the front of the block, nor does the "S" TIII block, no embossed letter.
Half of the "T" (Trenton) TII blocks have A big B embossed below the dist. and the other three have nothing there.
I have also read that the Mexico block supposedly should have a C embossed below the dist. couldnt prove it by my findings.
The TIII Satillo block I have is nice, but the two 2.5's Satillo's are a tighter, smoother casting, even though they are from the same core.

The mexico cast block I have (93 tbi) doesnt have anything either other than the EIN stamping. I think the whole A, B, C ect thing is more rumor fluff spread by the internet.

Did you put any of the blocks on a scale ?

[GLHNSLHT2]

I have a C block. I always read that they were cast in Mexico but don't know how to tell for sure.

[Reaper1]

That is the confusing part. The two late 2.5L common blocks I have with the EIN# S stamping (Satillo Mex.) do not have any big letter embossed on the front of the block, nor does the "S" TIII block, no embossed letter.
Half of the "T" (Trenton) TII blocks have A big B embossed below the dist. and the other three have nothing there.
I have also read that the Mexico block supposedly should have a C embossed below the dist. couldnt prove it by my findings.
The TIII Satillo block I have is nice, but the two 2.5's Satillo's are a tighter, smoother casting, even though they are from the same core.

That's right, the supposed marking for the Mexican blocks was the "C"!! OOPS!! I'll see if I can fix my post. It is still interesting that there is no real pattern to that.

[Reaper1]

The mexico cast block I have (93 tbi) doesnt have anything either other than the EIN stamping. I think the whole A, B, C ect thing is more rumor fluff spread by the internet.

Did you put any of the blocks on a scale ?

Here's the weight of my block from my Masi project.

2/28/89 Common Block with mains and headbolts: 98.4#'s

[4 l-bodies]

The mexico cast block I have (93 tbi) doesnt have anything either other than the EIN stamping. I think the whole A, B, C ect thing is more rumor fluff spread by the internet.

Did you put any of the blocks on a scale ?

Completely agree Craig. Just like all the different lettering on cylinder heads. R, A/B, etc. Just different molds.

[Warren Stramer]

FINALLY! Got my crank back from Winberg. They had it for 7 months. turned out real nice though. Some progress pics................

[ShelGame]

Almost too nice to put oil on. Almost...

[Warren Stramer]

Almost too nice to put oil on. Almost...

If this block lasts half as long as the last one I will be happy. I'm building this one to be safe to any reasonable RPM.

[ShelGame]

What did you do to the block? Is that just smoothing the casting flash and then bead-blasting? Or is that a coating? Is it going to get an oil-shedding paint?

[Warren Stramer]

What did you do to the block? Is that just smoothing the casting flash and then bead-blasting? Or is that a coating? Is it going to get an oil-shedding paint?

I ground it all smooth, then blasted it. Next it will be coated with Glyptal.

[cordes]

FINALLY! Got my crank back from Winberg. They had it for 7 months. turned out real nice though. Some progress pics................

As usual, moderately OK at best!

If this block lasts half as long as the last one I will be happy. I'm building this one to be safe to any reasonable RPM.

That's safe beyond all reason to us mortals!

This thread is so interesting to follow. How many people have smoothed out the inside of their block like that? I'm thinking one person so far?