I have a foam cannon. Good stuff. I use a electric yard blower to dry my cars so it wont scratch the paint and its quicker.
I have a foam cannon. Good stuff. I use a electric yard blower to dry my cars so it wont scratch the paint and its quicker.
When it comes to washing your car CR Spotless FTW. My first SDAC I had one shipped to Reeves so I could pick it up and take it home. You'll never have to touch your car with a chamois again.
http://www.costco.com/CR-SPOTLESS-De-Ionizing-Spotless-Water-System%E2%84%A2.product.11751987.html
Sales pitch over - you're welcome CR.
That being said couldn't you just get it re-cleared? Even if the place you got it done won't warranty it they should give you a deal on a re-clear.
Nice ! This is the kind of frivolous spending I endorse !
Last edited by 168glhs1986; 10-30-2014 at 03:40 PM.
I used to have good luck with the ol Mr. Clean AutoDry Car Wash system, but they stopped selling the filters.
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
I just don't wash them. Problem solved.
Ok, I'm not as hardcore as no-wash-Pat but after enough trips to the car wash using the brush, the finish is nice & uniform anyhow.
“If the people of the nation understood our banking and monetary system, I believe there would be a revolution before tomorrow morning.” -Henry Ford
Too bad your guy isn't closer, the Lightning really needs some attention, all that black scares me. I love adding to my overly full garage with new "tools", I might have to look into that CR spotless..
-Gary Mazzone-
1986 GLHS #168
My experience with the CR is I wash and rinse the car and then just leave it. Not a single water spot will be left behind and I have quite hard water. The only thing would will see it dust that may collect in the water droplets while they are drying.
For dark paint, if it is just swirl marks pick up a random orbital polisher. I use the Porter Cable 7424XP. With my inexperience I couldn't get the swirls out of the dark blue on the Shadow with a rotary buff. The PC was the magic tool and it looked 100 times better after using it. Being a random orbital polisher it is impossible to burn your paint or screw it up. You could hold it in one spot all day long and it will never get hot enough to do damage. It also isn't aggressive enough to wreck a corner or raised body line. That being said it won't do a great job if you have deep imperfections you are trying to get out or color sanding but it works marvels for a buff of swirls and light scratches.
Update: Talked to the painter who's painting my M3 right now.....he recommended I bring the car to him.
So picking up Jules tomorrow and the total bill from the detailers is $0.00.
I caught them before they really started / finished the paint correction. They want me to be happy so once we get the scratch issue solved I'll take it back to them for a paint protection coating of some sort.
Stay tuned.....saga continues.
Bought the Torq 10 da buffer which was looooong overdue. I'll be polishing, glazing, multiple layers of carnuba for protection and then sealing.
After that I will be washing it the correct way and hopefully this will suffice.
If not u may entertain a gloss white wrap with new decals. But I doubt it gets that far
I thought you were supposed to polish the paint, then seal it, then apply the wax? Does sealer work well over wax? The reason I ask is because the way I understand wax is that it is sort of ablative, so that means if sealer is applied over it that it would tend to come off sooner.
I'm no detailing expert, though, so I'm all up for education!
Sealer first in my book. A good sealer shouldnt need wax.
Thanks guys your right . Sealer and cure for a day and then wax the crap out of it
what sealer and wax you planning on using or did I miss that part?
I haven't decided yet. I did order a few things from chemical guys so i will post more about this when they arrive.
I use meguiars everything and would highly recommend Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0 even though Barry Meguiar just gets under my skin in a bad way for some reason.
as far as spotless washing, I think I have a killer idea that would be relatively inexpensive and guarantee spotless ness...
1) buy a cheap-o used reverse osmosis unit (craiglist, ~$100)
2) buy a larger tank of some kind to hold, say, 200 gallons, whatever you will use in your car washes (craigslist, unknown $$..definitely one of those oddball deal type things)
3) buy a 110V water pump that will pump out say 10 gpm at 60psi (typical hose pressure) (harbor freight/craigslist, $50?)
Let the reverse osmosis unit fill up the tank with ion/dirt/calcium/rust free water. May take a week, but if you only wash your car once a week, no bigge.
Then you use the pump to pressurize the water into your normal garden hose for washing.
The reverse osmosis membrane should give you many car washes before it needs to be replaced. I did the math one time and it turns out to be very inexpensive I believe.
And if you are in the middle of building your end-times apocalypse bunker, then just put the 200 gallon tank in it, and wa lah 200 gallons of reagent grade water so you and yours will survive until the radiation dies down
Reverse osmosis wastes a tremendous amount of water. An inline filter like this below would be a good idea and has no waste.
http://www.autogeek.net/clinhofianda.html
Lets say RO wastes 90%. So 1800 gallons get wasted for a 200 gallon 20 minute at 10gpm car wash (thats a HUGE amount of non stop water for a car wash..a typical one would probably be 1/4th that). Thats only maybe $2 or 3$ of water. And you can always send the waste RO into a garden or pool if you really want to save the $$
Plus replacement RO filters are much less expensive. You could get 9000 gallons of RO water from of $35 filter.
So overall RO would be much cheaper.
If those filter systems really left spot free finishes with Id buy one in a heartbeat..but they dont. They just dont remove enough of the stuff that gets left on the paint.