To me, it looks like the same kind of thing where say you have a bent or damaged rim on your car, you would need to put a lot of weights on one side to make it drivable, but its never really the same, still vibrates at high speed.
To me, it looks like the same kind of thing where say you have a bent or damaged rim on your car, you would need to put a lot of weights on one side to make it drivable, but its never really the same, still vibrates at high speed.
So the tips of the turbine blades are just reshaped? To me it looks like they just sort of grind the whole top off of the turbine blades.
84 Laser XE TII A555 89 Caravan SE TIV A568
look at the pic
http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/turb...ing-p-149.html
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
My clipped stock turbine wheel out of my old S70. This is after running 2 years, then the bearings wore out (too much difference in the wheel sizes, lot of thrust wear).
thats a beaut right there lol. good job son.Originally Posted by Force Fed Mopar
Lol thank youWhen it got to where it would only build 12 psi, I figured something must've happened
OK, it all makes sense now. So how does that improve flow exactly? Does it just let the exhaust by the wheel faster, increasing the speed of the exhaust gases?
84 Laser XE TII A555 89 Caravan SE TIV A568
It basically allows more gases by, since there is less of the blades protruding into the flow. It basically increases the flow at the cost of some efficiency (read:slightly slower spool time).
So let me get this straight, the "quick spool" option involves clipping the wheel which makes it spool slower?
No, the quick spool option is apparently just lightening the wheel:
http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/quic...ion-p-147.html
It can be done independently or in conjunction with clipping the wheel:
http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/turb...ing-p-149.html
I would surmise that the idea of doing them together is that lightening the wheel will help negate the efficiency loss from clipping the wheel. In other words, you get the extra flow without inducing any more lag. Looks like that may be what was done to yours.
That's strange since Dan never asked to have wheel clipped as I understand it.
84 Laser XE TII A555 89 Caravan SE TIV A568
So I've read all 4 pages of this thread and you completely off topic now...so just to stay off topic I'm guessing you didn't crank your engine till oil came out of the drain back from the turbo. IF you started your engine without doing this I'm 99% sure thats why your turbo failed again!! If it really did fail and its not just the oil in the piping getting sucked through and burned. If you just did a rebuild on your engine and your comp tests are that low either it didn't get broken in properly or the rings we not installed correctly. IE overlapping the oil rings when they should butt up against each other has the possibility to destroy the sealing properties of the cylinders sidewalls. Sounds like its time for new plugs wires cap rotor if that fixed your original problem for that little bit of time...
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