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Thread: Head: wrong valves?

  1. #1
    Garrett booster
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    Head: wrong valves?

    Head sounds like a diesel engine. PT LAs made no dif on noise. Car runs well although it really really shakes on idle. Smooths out at anything above that, seems to have decent power and gets good mileage. Still, the noise seems atrocious even for an 80's car. There are no other TDs around to compare it to and my previous engine for this car used a slider but the car sat for almost 8 years before I restored it so I don't even recall what noise the slider made.

    While reading through various head threads here I remembered that my machinist called me when I had the head redone and told me the head had the wrong valves in it. I told him to put the correct ones in and never thought anything about it again.

    What are the chances he put the short valves in my 782 head?
    Would that even be possible?
    What will it do to the head, cam or valvetrain running it around like that? I'm trying to get another car on the road to run around with by the end of summer, but this car will be a DD until then. It has already made a few 150+ mile trips.
    Is there any way to check this theory without removing the head?

  2. #2
    Hot Certified Christians at TD! Turbo Mopar Staff Directconnection's Avatar
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    Re: Head: wrong valves?

    It's possible he put the wrong valves in it.... and you don't have the correct lash happening.

    You did put the PT lifters in though? You might have an issue there if you didn't use the shims with them.

    Running rough.... could be from the valves not opening properly causing the engine to run real rough.... just a quick guess as I am headed off to work.
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    Re: Head: wrong valves?

    Thanks for your response. I have the proper shims (2 each) installed with the PT LAs. I am going to check my dry lash this weekend if the weather holds. At least that's a starting point I guess. This engine was my first rebuilt 2.2 so I just took all the pieces coming from the machinist as being to spec. Next time I'll know to double check specs on everything before it goes in!

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    Re: Head: wrong valves?

    Check the installed heights and the valve lengths.... (tip heights)
    Quote Originally Posted by 22mopar
    have a look at my feedback on the forum. all positive.

    Steve

    '90 VNT competition package Shadow - T-III SC6262 conversion/restoration
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    Re: Head: wrong valves?

    Do a compression test first and foremost.

    The vibration could be a broken or wrongly installed motor mount.

    Swirl head valves are the longest so if the machinist used G head valves in your swirl head, the valves won't open.

    Maybe take a video of your noise.

    What's your idle vacuum?
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  6. #6
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    Re: Head: wrong valves?

    I did test compression a while back but I don't remember the number but I'll test again. My idle vacuum is at 21 (according to the stock boost gauge) which I thought was pretty good. If the short valves wouldn't open at all, then I assume the car wouldn't run so well during normal driving. So, I think as far as valves go, I'll check the specs DC recommended and if the numbers are good, I'll rule out valves.

    The sound most obvious under throttle response. During cruising or coasting, it quiets down to the point I can't hear it (I can't tell if the noise stops or just quiets down to the point where other noise drowns it out).

    I read somewhere that piston slap usually emanates through the head but that it quiets down as the engine warms up. This noise stays consistent no mater how warm or cold the engine is so I'm ruling out piston slap for now. One thing I'm thinking is that maybe the LAs are loose in their bores? Would that make a clattery diesel sound?

  7. #7
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    Re: Head: wrong valves?

    Piston slap and bad/incorrectly adjusted HLA's sound completely different. If the head sounds like a loud typewriter going 90 words a minute .. the valve train is the source of the noise. Piston slap is more of a rhythmic "thunk" type sound and is a deeper tone than the sound produced by the valve train.

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    Re: Head: wrong valves?

    21" is fine so I would rule out bad valves.

    Loose piston's sounds like a diesel-tackatackatacka, its louder cold and changes as the engine warms up.

    Piston pin noise doesn't change hot or cold and is loudest as a certain rpm.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  9. #9
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    Re: Head: wrong valves?

    Hmmm... thanks for the input guys. I think the typewriter sound might be close to what I'm hearing.

  10. #10
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    Re: Head: wrong valves?

    I think you have piston slap. If the noise bothers you then you'll have to tear it down, if not, just drive it. I drove mine with probably .150" piston clearance for years, sounded like a diesel, could hear me coming, but loudest at idle, then cruise or light load, it was quieter.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

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