What is this annoying noise !!!!!

[shadowdude]

idk what the problem is but maybe a stethoscope would help find the general location of the noise. just a suggestion.

LOL beat u to it, had mine from one end to other on that engine and for some reason it seems most noticeable if i put the 'scope' right on the oil pan at the rear main seal.....then that ever annoying deal of making it go away with the plugging and the fact that i had the pan off twice and saw nothing at all confuses me even more.I have been trying to fix my crank case excessive pressure to and i now have a draw from the VC pipe direct to the pre-turbo with a oil/water separator in between and that for some reason has changed the noise pitch and level..WHAT THE ??? ever feel like your stuck in a dream were nothing makes sense..lol

[shadowdude]

All right ,had a slight time out for a day due to others stuff.Just an update ,i took a line from the VC pipe to a oil/water separator to pre-turbo ,T-ed a direct vacuum draw form the intake into that line so at idle it would have a vacuum source.Added 2 check valves to the intake vacuum source line to keep boost out,yet pre-turbo line draws vacuum on CC at wot.Finished this set up off with a breather oil cap for the VC to help vent as well. "SO FAR" and i say that carefully lol it is reduced the oil blowing out greatly.Bonus...now as for that noise it has settled down to only happening when i am coming to a stop from say 50km to 25km then it goes away at idle and and only comes back when slowing down not speeding up.So i am going to drive it like that for now and lock it in @ 20psi and watch over it for a bit and hope i don't have to post here any time soon about this again LOL.Thanks again to all.Until again .

[black86glhs]

Makes me think it is rear main seal or rear main seal adapter related. I had a PVC issue with my Intrigue last rear and it would whistle at idle. If I pulled the dipstick, it would go away. Only way to know would be to replace the seal adapter and seal with another one and see.

[x.Gen]

don't remember reading regarding this previously in the thread, but it is getting deep and I'm only skimming.

the line that you are plugging with your thumb...from the evap can, right? check the cap on the can (buried in front of the passenger side frame rail behind the rad support) - they can pop off (even halfway) inadvertently. there is a spring-loaded block-off plate in there, under the cap. the solenoid applies and removes vacuum, in order to draw fuel vapor into the TB/manifold. if the spring/plate/cap aren't seated EXACTLY right, the plate will basically rattle around in there.

you should do searches on this to understand it (basic info on mini-mopar), I've read about a lot of guys over the years deleting this whole vacuum circuit. haven't really seen posts of negative side effects, but I don't remove things without serious consideration (this could mildly affect a/f at some point, however little, and emissions if you're worried about that). the line from the solenoid to the can - pull it at the solenoid, temporarily. still make the noise (when idling)?

[turbovanman²]

don't remember reading regarding this previously in the thread, but it is getting deep and I'm only skimming.

the line that you are plugging with your thumb...from the evap can, right? check the cap on the can (buried in front of the passenger side frame rail behind the rad support) - they can pop off (even halfway) inadvertently. there is a spring-loaded block-off plate in there, under the cap. the solenoid applies and removes vacuum, in order to draw fuel vapor into the TB/manifold. if the spring/plate/cap aren't seated EXACTLY right, the plate will basically rattle around in there.

you should do searches on this to understand it (basic info on mini-mopar), I've read about a lot of guys over the years deleting this whole vacuum circuit. haven't really seen posts of negative side effects, but I don't remove things without serious consideration (this could mildly affect a/f at some point, however little, and emissions if you're worried about that). the line from the solenoid to the can - pull it at the solenoid, temporarily. still make the noise (when idling)?

All that does is create a vacuum leak, been there, got the badge,

[x.Gen]

All that does is create a vacuum leak, been there, got the badge,

you mean by pulling it off at the solenoid? yes, but he already had that leak if that hose is from the can and he is running it open air. my suggestion would be run it as stock diagram indicates (hook that back to TB), and/or make sure the plate/spring is set up right (have fun, the easy way to know if that is it would be removing the line from solenoid temporarily), or delete it like I've read (the whole circuit), but only if you have to.

[shadowdude]

Never had the evaporator can hooked up ,cracked it along time ago when first had the car so i left that solenoid and the waste gate one hook up with no vacuum to them at all.was like for a good 5 years never had trouble with it being that way...well none that i was ever aware of.

[glhturbo1985]

I tried to listen to your video and it was removed.

I'm having a problem with my 85 GLHT which has an 89 Roller Cam head that was remanufactured. It's a t2 settup.

I have a weird ticking at idle. Almost sounds like its coming from the exhaust or intake manifolds. My dad, the bottom end builder and myself pulled the VC to inspect the lifters. They are hydraulic lifters. Oddly, with only having 5,000 miles on the engine, the lifters are dropping (5 of the 8) after only a few seconds of pressure. We are going to replace the lifters and see what happens then. What's been successful performance replacements for 89 Roller Cam lifters?

I'm also having a pretty low oil pressure issue and have been since the engine was fired. 50 psi at start up idle with 10-40. It gets worse from there. On highway at 70 mph, ~3000 rpm, it's only at 25psi. After a long highway drive (200 miles or so) My idling oil pressure can be as low as 20 psi. It was actually so low that the dash gauge wasn't registering any oil pressure. Pretty scary. We replaced the oil pump twice. Oil Pressure sending unit twice. Placed a mechanical gauge in a while back and I've been monitoring it since. There is plently of Volume, but low Pressure.

Not to steal your thread. I should start one of my own, but we're gonna try changing the lifters. See what happens. Bad thing is my dad has a similiar settup in his 86 GLHS which might be done one day. If it's the Lifter bore in the Reman. head, then IDK. Damm cars!

Could you repost the video of the noise?

[shadowdude]

Would love to but for some damn reason youtube took it down, I dont remember taking it off and i never kept it on my hard drive as i just took it from a digital camera.Why in the world would it be down.Seeing the car is sitting in the garage with no turbo and the noise was fixed by replacing the lifters i cant do another one for you my friend sorry.I would still replace them and see how that does for u.

[turbovanman²]

I tried to listen to your video and it was removed.

I'm having a problem with my 85 GLHT which has an 89 Roller Cam head that was remanufactured. It's a t2 settup.

I have a weird ticking at idle. Almost sounds like its coming from the exhaust or intake manifolds. My dad, the bottom end builder and myself pulled the VC to inspect the lifters. They are hydraulic lifters. Oddly, with only having 5,000 miles on the engine, the lifters are dropping (5 of the 8) after only a few seconds of pressure. We are going to replace the lifters and see what happens then. What's been successful performance replacements for 89 Roller Cam lifters?

I'm also having a pretty low oil pressure issue and have been since the engine was fired. 50 psi at start up idle with 10-40. It gets worse from there. On highway at 70 mph, ~3000 rpm, it's only at 25psi. After a long highway drive (200 miles or so) My idling oil pressure can be as low as 20 psi. It was actually so low that the dash gauge wasn't registering any oil pressure. Pretty scary. We replaced the oil pump twice. Oil Pressure sending unit twice. Placed a mechanical gauge in a while back and I've been monitoring it since. There is plently of Volume, but low Pressure.

Not to steal your thread. I should start one of my own, but we're gonna try changing the lifters. See what happens. Bad thing is my dad has a similiar settup in his 86 GLHS which might be done one day. If it's the Lifter bore in the Reman. head, then IDK. Damm cars!

Could you repost the video of the noise?

20 psi at idle is WELL within specs, minimum spec is 4 psi.

Good upgrade is PT lifters, you need 2 sets from Mopar, P5007440 or go raid a junkyard for 2000+ 2.0 and 2.4 DOHC. You also need shims that go under the lifters that measure 0.126"

As for the low oil pressure at higher rpm, yes, you should have 10 psi per 1000 rpm, so 25 psi if measured on a real gauge is too low, so you either have loose bearings, or a bad oil pump or leak at the oil pump to block, or leaking oil pump pu.

[glhturbo1985]

PT lifters didn't help the noise. The old ones were definitely falling after a few seconds though. Dammit. We're gonna pull the VC again and check the Cam, the gap between them and also the spacing of the cam retainers. I heard if the short side of the Cam is surfaced less than spec, that could cause a top end noise. The possibilities are endless though.

I'll tell you this. I'm not using RTV again on the VC until the thing quiets up.

The head was a remanufactured 89 roller style. It's possible that they screwed something up or put a almost worn part in. After taking the lifters out, there were two different styles, which kinda leads me to believe that they just put a bunch of parts together and hoped it worked without any problems. Maybe the journal for the cam is out of tollerance too?

TBC..

[shadowdude]

It is reallying bugging me i cant find a copy of that video at all.This way i could have seen if it was the same noise.If you can get a stethascope use it to pin point exactly where it is ,or seems to be, coming from.When i usd it on mine the noise was most noticable when i placed the rod of the scope on the block right near were the oil sending unit is towards the trans case.I hate to say this as getting it back on is a pain if using gaskets but take the oil pan down to maybe and see whats going on there.Give a read what i did through out this thread if you havent and try some of that as well.I feel for ya as i know a hidden noise is a severe pain in the ---.

[turbovanman²]

PT lifters didn't help the noise. The old ones were definitely falling after a few seconds though. Dammit. We're gonna pull the VC again and check the Cam, the gap between them and also the spacing of the cam retainers. I heard if the short side of the Cam is surfaced less than spec, that could cause a top end noise. The possibilities are endless though.

I'll tell you this. I'm not using RTV again on the VC until the thing quiets up.

The head was a remanufactured 89 roller style. It's possible that they screwed something up or put a almost worn part in. After taking the lifters out, there were two different styles, which kinda leads me to believe that they just put a bunch of parts together and hoped it worked without any problems. Maybe the journal for the cam is out of tollerance too?

TBC..

Was there any preload on the lifters when you put the cam back in?

Not sure how you could have different styles of OE lifters, they only made one for our engines. They simply changed the rocker arms and cam to go roller.

[glhturbo1985]

Maybe they were just from different manufacturers. Some had an additional chamfer at the bottom. some did not. the overall height of the lifters were identical.

with the old lifters, they probably weren't really bad. the only way we could get them to collapse (out of the engine) was to put them in a vice. We didn't put the cam in ourselves. there wasn't any drag on the roller either. the reman. head was sent to us with all guts installed.