1989 CSX #68 rebuild

[Reaper1]

EEEWW!!! Are you going to do a decal delete kit on that pump and tank!?

[Shadowjake]

EEEWW!!! Are you going to do a decal delete kit on that pump and tank!?

Reaper, I don't understand what you mean. what decals?

[Reaper1]

Reaper, I don't understand what you mean. what decals?

LOL....sorry, that's something Jackson came up with called "Unit Dialect". Basically "decals" means rust....delete and install kits can be added to just about anything as you see fit, but Jackson is the master of this. If you ever get the chance to hang out with that crazy guy, DO IT! You won't stop laughing!

[turbokid]

Love Jackson. Yes unit dialect install kit ftw

[Reaper1]

Please let's not install the thread hijack kit, though! This guy is putting a LOT of effort (compared to most) to get this car right, and I'm enjoying watching his progress. The unit dialect just adds some "funny" to it...that's all!

Back to car building!

[Shadowjake]

Talked to Steve menegon today and my head should be back soon. He really went through it with a fine tooth comb so it should be solid. Also talked to Chris at TU and he's recommending a 6 puck clutch and purple plate for my setup. Also strongly considering the lightened iron flywheel. Do you guys think it would pay off over the stock one? Does it justify the extra couple hundred bucks? Can't wait to get the car on the road! Reassemby is so much better than the tear down was!

[Reaper1]

I personally run a TU "race lightened" steel flywheel and a TU 6-puck purple clutch. I LOVE it! It is completely streetable, but will hold ANYTHING you can throw at it. If you do go that route, you won't be dissapointed. One word of advice...use blue loctite on the pressure plate and flywheel bolts! I didn't do that on the pressure plate bolts, and the backed out! :O I'd NEVER seen that happen before on ANY car, but hey, first time for everything and you learn. Just thought I'd pass along some wisdom gained from experience!

[Shadowjake]

Thanks for the tip! BTW, you got me all self conscious about my tank now. All because of you, I'm stripping it down to bare metal and returning it to it's original glory. I might even put a real decal on it just for fun. I have one of those windshield stickers from TD.com I ordered years ago that doesn't deserve a place on my car's exterior. But that site might deserve advertisment space on my gas tank. Just for you man! Thanks for your input.

This is my first rebuild and I am learning as I go. So anyone reading this, if you see something in this thread and think "that's not the way I would do it" or "this would probably work better", PLEASE PIPE IN! You might teach me something and make the restoration even better. I really think this community is one of the best ones on the net. The wealth of knowledge here combined with the sincere desire to want to help eachother succeed in the name of our favorite generation of cars really is priceless. It is hard to find on other sites. Just look at SRTForums once and you'll know what I mean.

You guys are frickin' awesome. Go team.

[unluckyty]

Nice work on your restoration, thanks for sharing.
Helped motivate me to get going on mine.

Greg

[Reaper1]

Thanks for the tip! BTW, you got me all self conscious about my tank now. All because of you, I'm stripping it down to bare metal and returning it to it's original glory. I might even put a real decal on it just for fun. I have one of those windshield stickers from TD.com I ordered years ago that doesn't deserve a place on my car's exterior. But that site might deserve advertisment space on my gas tank. Just for you man! Thanks for your input.

This is my first rebuild and I am learning as I go. So anyone reading this, if you see something in this thread and think "that's not the way I would do it" or "this would probably work better", PLEASE PIPE IN! You might teach me something and make the restoration even better. I really think this community is one of the best ones on the net. The wealth of knowledge here combined with the sincere desire to want to help eachother succeed in the name of our favorite generation of cars really is priceless. It is hard to find on other sites. Just look at SRTForums once and you'll know what I mean.

You guys are frickin' awesome. Go team.

LOL! That's kinda funny. I didn't mean to make you all selfconscious and such! I think you will be happy about the outcome and the result, though! BTW, I know you can source the sealing grommet for the filler tube from aftermarket vendors, but it takes some searching. I'd HIGHLY reccomend replacing that while you're there as well. I think new fuel line also goes without saying.

One other thing is the fuel pump to top-ring hose. Make sure it is rated for being submerged in gasoline. There were problems a few years ago about people having those fail because the hose was in an environment it wasn't designed for. NAPA sells it by the foot, but they have to order it if I'm not mistaken....

[135sohc]

The filler pipe grommet is still very available from chrysler, most dealers probably keep one stocked since apparently they are very popular and the part # itself goes back a few decades.

SAE-30R10 is the fuel hose rated for submerged use.

[Reaper1]

^^ Thanks! I couldn't remember the hose number to save my life! I've got my receipt somewhere, but yeah, that would be like finding the holy grail in my mess of crap!

[Shadowjake]

Attachment 30780Attachment 30779

Here's the tank's bottom after stripping it down and coating it with Sharkhide metal protectant. Hopefully that stuff lives up to its claims. We'll know in a couple years.

Attachment 30781

For the fuel line, I just used the hose that came with the Walbro install kit. I am sure it is rated correctly or Cindy wouldn't have sent it to me. Here's a pic of it before sliding it into the tank.

Attachment 30782

It didn't say anthing in the instructions about the pulse dampener installed after the pump besides "not all models" so I put it back in. Is there any benefit or drawback to keeping it/removing it?

Thanks for the tip on the filler tube grommet. I'll have to look into that. A new one couldn't hurt.

[cordes]

You don't need the pulse damper. I figure it can only hamper flow or be a source of trouble so I leave them out.

[Shadowjake]

spent 4 hours yesterday bending new fuel lines but got them all bent, bundled, and ready to install. What a PITA! I have one more brake line to do rear right and then time to install the lines and tank.

Getting the clutch and flywheel from TU soon (shipping out this week) and Steve said the head will go out in the mail today. I'm almost ready to drop the engine and tranny back in. My next challenge is going to be finding the best route for getting a calibration.

I had ordered one from TU back when paul was doing them but we all know how that panned out. Fortunately Chris refunded me my money no questions asked as soon as I requested it. And it has been 5 years since I ordered it. Awesome customer service! Chris said they plan to get cals back again soon but just incase that is what ends up keeping her off the road, what are my other options? I'm not too keen on tuning and burning my own because I'm afraid I'll screw something up. Ideally, I'd like to get a new cal shipped to me ready to go. But am afraid some of the cookie cutter staged kits available won't be 100%. I wish I would have been around back in the days when custom dyno tuned cals were available from TU. . .

What do you guys recommend?

[Reeves]

Great thread! Enjoyed reading all 7 pages (while at work on a Monday

For a cal, what all have you done that isn't stock? I saw a Menegon ported G head and forged pistons.

[Shadowjake]

Thanks James. I enjoyed reading your project log too a while back. How's that going?

The planned mod list is listed below. I have everything listed either installed or sitting on a shelf waiting to be installed.

INTAKE:
New T3/T4 Turbonetics turbo
- 50 trim or super 50 trim, can't remember it's been 6 years since I ordered it.
- Stage 2 turbine
- .63 A/R
- 3" swing valve

Steve Menegon Ported G head
- oversized valves
- stock roller cam
- stock lifters and followers

Stock 1 piece intake (would like to upgrade to 2 piece ported if I can find one)
Stock intercooler (planning to upgrade to Spearco 1080cfm unit eventually)
Stock Throttle body
** I know the intake side is going to be my biggest bottle neck so far. Suggestions are always welcome.

EXHAUST:
3" turbo back exhaust
- Cat delete
TU Hybrid header

BLOCK/HARDWARE:
+.020 Wiseco pistons
Refurbished TU TII rods
ARP hardware (head studs, main studs, rod studs)
short block was ballanced
Polybushings motor mounts and bobble strut

FUEL:
255 lph Walbro fuel pump
+40% fuel injectors
Accufab AFPR
Stock fuel rail
Stock size fuel lines 5/16 feed, 1/4 return (new)

I have 2 3 bar MAP sensors sitting on the shelf too. The car came with one after I ordered one. It had a VNT turbo with a FWD Performance VNT staged calibration in it when I got the car.

TRANSMISSION:
Rebuilt Hybrid A555
A520 int shaft and OBX LSD
TU 6 puck with purple plate
lightened flywheel

SUSPENSION:
Poly Lower control arm bushings
Poly Sway bar bushings
custom progressive springs (similar to eibachs)
Koni adjustable shocks and struts
Moog ball joints and tie rod ends

That's all I can think of off hand. Let me know if I am missing anything or if you want more details.

[Reeves]

Contact Rob Llyod (Shelgame). He's on here and his website is www.boostbutton.com He can hook you up for sure with a cal!

Great build!

[Reaper1]

The tank looks nice! Where'd you find that protectant product and where can I get more information on it?

If you can still get at the pump, yank it out, and at least replace that worm gear clamp with an actual fuel injection hose clamp. Many people don't have issues with the worms, but I don't want you to be the one that does! As for the pulse dampener....meh. You've already cut the hose and such for it to be there, so jus tleave it. If it were me, I'd yank it.

[Shadowjake]