I have the steel core plugs in the head of an RT i just bought, i have heard some people say to just leave them since they have lasted this long without problems and changing them can cause more issues.
Is this true? Or would you swap them for aluminum ones no matter what?
People usually just leave them be..but with my white r/t i changed them to the aluminum ones and drove that thing almost everyday without any problems..you just want to be sure not to tighten them too much
i heard the same thing. The reasoning being, if it's not cracked and the plugs aren't leaking, why bother?Originally Posted by 1BADVAN
If it aint broke....
Carroll
SILVER, 85 GLH-R/T, TIII powered, Fueltech, ID1300's. PTE5857
RED, 91 Spirit R/T - Holset HE351 - 12.6 @ 107...R.I.P.
Only problem is with the steel plugs is if they get rusty over time the rust will cause them to expand and eventually crack the head. I change everyone to aluminum.
Yea but, what do you know...
I had my head fully reworked, port polish, 5 angle yadda yadda. My cylinder head guy that does A LOT of welding wasn't comfortable with welding the plugs shut so we left the steelies in place. I'll be watching for the rust thing though Jackson, first I've heard about it...
AJ (no More Alan) 84 Rampage RT TIII/568 Quaife 87 GLHS dealer optioned Red 16V Masi/568/Quaife
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The head on my R/T went 90k with no cracking. I pulled it and had it rebuild at the machine shop and it cracked about 5k after it was reinstalled. I wouldn't mess with them if it hasn't cracked already. I have always believed that the torque they were installed makes a big difference. If you can see the top couple threads on the plugs I would leave them. If they are torqued WAY down into the head, then I might consider changing them. Either way the T3 is pretty much a ticking time bomb in most cases unless they are maintained to jacksons standards.
~Tyler Larsen~Salt Lake City~
-92 Daytona R/T (T3/T4 Hybrid, Quaife, etc...)
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The '91 T-III I am tearing down to rebuild right now has it's original steel plugs still in. 125,000 miles and no issues... but I do worry "when" it may happen. I didn't count the threads, but I noticed there were a couple showing. BTW: the NPT tapped depth dictates how much the plug engages.... but I guess all it takes is one yahoo to wind those plugs in pretty far, too.
Jackson.... how do you get the steel plugs out? Heat the surrounding area? If you install new aluminum plugs, do you weld them after a light torqueing?
Decisions.....
Another thing: Back when I wasn't paying attention to the T-III cars (I'm still an 8v lover) I remember Cliff Ramsdell suggesting a certain mod he does by welding up a passage shut on the deck of the head. Is this something you all do with your T-IIIs?
Steve
'90 VNT competition package Shadow - T-III SC6262 conversion/restoration
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'91 Spirit R/T - white
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nada!Yea but, what do you know...
Thats cause Jackson is talking ---- again.
Yes.
Carroll
SILVER, 85 GLH-R/T, TIII powered, Fueltech, ID1300's. PTE5857
RED, 91 Spirit R/T - Holset HE351 - 12.6 @ 107...R.I.P.
My logic has always been that if it hasn't cracked yet, it's probably not going to.
What about heads that have been already been welded? Seems to me it probably wouldn't ever crack again with the whole plug area welded over like many I have seen. In my eyes a head that has already been cracked and welded is even better than an uncracked head. Thoughts?
Ok if its a factory casting the core plugs are M26x1.5 with a slight taper to them. The holes in the head are straight thread. I have that size tap that I chase the threads before installing aluminum plugs everytime. I torque them to 15ft/lbs when I install the aluminums.
TO get the old one out I usually do break them loose while the engine is still in the car cause they are usually super tight. Some PB Blaster and a torch is usually required. You need a 12mm hex to do that.....
If I am going thru a head that needs the center valley area welded(usually Dunn heads do) I just cut off a piece of 1" aluminum round and set it in the hole and weld it in place. There is a trick to welding these heads that a welder buddy of mine has gotten really good at. We have found that on the Dunn heads you should weld the plug up if its cracked by it. If not cracked just install new aluminum plug after chasing threads with permatex.
As for the deck oil hole if you are running a Mopar HG I would have it welded up and re-surfaced FOR SURE! This was and still is a big problem with TIII HGs leaking. This fixes it or has at least on everyone I have done. If running a Cometic its not as important but I do everyone I run myself or prep for anyone else.
Just for anyones FYI the Dunn re-casts are 3/4NPT and not 26mm and you need to run a 3/4NPS tap through the head to clean them. I had Cindy make a run of Dunn head plugs so if anyone needs them she has them in stock......
First off I dont buy the whole threads showing thing on the original castings. Everyone I have seen has been in about the same spot and I have seen lots of them lol. The Dunn heads on the other hand usually have the center plug lower than the rest and thats the one that cracks. I have seen brand new in the Mopar box Dunn heads that are cracked! Im pretty sure they over-tightened the center one from the factory and using a taper pipe thread thats aluminum on aluminum and over-tightening is like instant failure. Ticking time bombs and my standards huh? Anybody can put one together like me its not rocket science lol..... I have always believed that the torque they were installed makes a big difference. If you can see the top couple threads on the plugs I would leave them. If they are torqued WAY down into the head, then I might consider changing them. Either way the T3 is pretty much a ticking time bomb in most cases unless they are maintained to jacksons standards.
If you think about the rust thing it makes total sense cause what happens when steel oxidizes and rusts? It EXPANDS and has nowhere to go and pop goes the crack in the head. I have 3 originals that came from northern cars with rusty plugs and they were cracked. I have 3 others that were from Southern cars with no rust on them and no cracks. It makes sense to me......
I would say that one that has been welded CORRECTLY is better than one that has not been cracked or welded. Especially with the plugs welded in place.
I disagree,
I never welded my 2 heads or the TIII I just did, no leaks using a Cometic and 005 gasket's,
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This is the oil passage that is being refered to. I had LW close mine up when they welded the crack.
~Tyler Larsen~Salt Lake City~
-92 Daytona R/T (T3/T4 Hybrid, Quaife, etc...)
-86 Jeep Grand Wagoneer Woody (winter beast)
-01 Audi TT Quattro (daily driver)
-71 Plymouth Cuda 440-6pk tribute
Check out my Homepage
If anyone is going to have the galley plug in the deck welded, BE SUPER DUPER DOUBLE FOR SURE TOTALLY 100% CAREFUL that this doesn't happen. It added a really big headache to my build
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...t=TIII+welding
AJ (no More Alan) 84 Rampage RT TIII/568 Quaife 87 GLHS dealer optioned Red 16V Masi/568/Quaife
90 Masi 16V White/Ginger/Black
89 TC Masi 16V Red/Ginger/Black
86 GLHS #110 RoadRace Built 89 CSX-VNT Recaro Car
89 Turbo Mini 'Woody' 85 GLHT 'RedBox'
2014 Explorer DD'r 3.5Twin Turbo Ecoboost AWD and 500HP
My profile page has over 20,000 views, I'm somebody LOL
I still feel bad about this happening to you Alan.If anyone is going to have the galley plug in the deck welded, BE SUPER DUPER DOUBLE FOR SURE TOTALLY 100% CAREFUL that this doesn't happen. It added a really big headache to my build
So anyone else please note only have it welded in about 1/4" or so. Going much deeper will block the oil hole to the exhaust rocker shaft. I have had at least 10 welded by my guy with no problems but he only welds the very surface and does not go very deep with the weld.
I have a few heads here that are rebuilt and ready to run, but they don't have this welding modification you guys speak of. To tell you the truth I've never really looked into it myself so I will have to review that thread. Is it too late to have it done at this point? Seems like the whole head would have to be disassembled again and resurfaced too. I really don't feel like doing all that again but..
If you dont want to weld it Jeremy just fill it with some high temp two part epoxy and carefully file it flat with the deck after its dry. Thats what we did with a few cars with new heads we put on. Worked so far with the stock composite gasket.
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