bummer... loctite makes some stuff thats sposed to repair torn keyways
ha jb weld would probably work better
bummer... loctite makes some stuff thats sposed to repair torn keyways
ha jb weld would probably work better
I had the car towed to my parents house so I can work in their nice big two car garage. Took some convincing but should make things easier.
I also went to a local auto wrecker and got a crank sprocket off a 3.0 in the "engine pile" for $5. Time to get dirty.
My building manager gave me sh*t when he saw my jacking my car up today...
Well my new crank and bearings are installed. I just need to put the new front seal in the water pump and install a new rear main seal and then I can throw the oil pan back on. Everyone like pictures so I'll take a few and post them soon.
The crank sprocket key was broken in half and that's why the sprocket wouldn't come off. My main bearings were also work down to the coffer and my crank journals were pretty scored so it was time for a overhaul of the bottom end anyway. I think the bottom end was damaged from running a 5.0 filter with no anti-drainback valve; the motor would knock on startup until oil pressure came up. Knocking went away with a stock oil filter - this was a couple years ago.
This is all being done with the motor in the car - I should have fulled it to make things easier but oh well. Nothing like bench pressing a crankshaft into place without getting anything dirty or scoring a journal on the rod bolts !
I just did it to mine, fronty seal!! 400 buck will fix it,
thats if you don't need a timing belt and a water pump
Yay for new crank, main and rod bearings, front and rear seals and new oil pan gasket. Now many damn valve covers the leakiest part of my engine.
I have a puff of blue when taking off from stop lights. Is there an easy fix for this?