couple questions about a build and going faster... 2.5l n/a and 2.2 turbo

[2.5L_Turbo_Sundance]

Hey guys, as I said I got couple questions about going faster in my 2.5L n/a daytona and a turbo question about my turbo build.

First, I took my 89 daytona to the track last Friday... 2.5L n/a automatic... all stock, only blew one of the bands out the stock tranny so swapped for a turbo automatic trans.

I'm embarassed of this but it ran a 19.3 in the quarter...

So I'm looking for ways to make this motor faster without breaking the wallet or blowing the motor in a week.

I was thinking this but idk if its possible... first, I would do a cold air intake... but its hard on the tbi set up...

So I just thought about only doing the mpi intake from a turbo motor I have at the house, and a cold air from that.

I am thinking of turboing it but I don't have the oil passages or lines on the non turbo...

So what I'm asking is if there is a way to convert my tbi non turbo to the mpi from a turbo without the turbo... and which harness to use? I have lots of parts between me and my brother... also which pcm or ecu to use?


That's for that car... I can have pics of my current set up(which isn't much)

Now the next one is for my turbo build for another shell I have, which is a daytona the same.

My friend is selling a 50trim turbo with maybe 100 miles on it for real cheap, and it would fit right on my manifold, but my motor is about stock... so I'm wondering if it could be too much for it... right now its still in the making... bottom end is done on stock specs, head is what I'm working on now... and I would deffinetely put bigger injectors on it... but would a 50 trim be too big for a about stock 86 2.2L that was t1 set up, but I'm running a t2 intake on it from another motor, so I can use the t1 intake on the n/a motor or something...

So any help or suggestion is welcome... like I said I'm tired of the embarassing times...


Thanks
Alex

[turbovanman²]

Not much you can do to an N/A car, just the basics and it won't gain much unless you go all out and a carb.

Mill the head for more compression, port job, ported manifolds, header, good exhaust, cam maybe, cold intake and ditch the tbi if you really want power.

As for going MPFI, you can use the turbo stuff, but just use a regular exhaust manifold, and if you stay out of WOT, it will run fine or have a cal tweaked by Shelgame.

As for putting a turbo on, you only need to drill and tap the block for the drain, so that can be done with the oil pan off.

You can run 5-6 psi on stock high compression if you run an IC, its all mostly bolt on and will be a fun ride.

[2.5L_Turbo_Sundance]

hmm... ok, lol

If u don't mind me asking why stay out of wot? And what is a cal?

Alex

[2.5L_Turbo_Sundance]

hmm... ok, lol

If u don't mind me asking why stay out of wot? And what is a cal?

Alex

[bakes]

If i had to do a N/a up again i would do a 2.5 hybrid with 2.4 cloud head and intake /exhaust manifolds use a turbo harness and build a n/a cal and call it done

[ATaylorRacing]

If you want to get the non-turbo car to go faster....trade it in. You can sink a ton of money in it to go just a but faster.....been there, done that. Keep it as a cruiser or trade it in.

35 time NHRA/IHRA Drag Race Champ
05 SRT4 / S2 / 12.87 @ 110 / DOTs
05 Mustang V6 / wifes / 15.17 @ 92 BONE stock
96 Geo Metro / 3 cyl - 1 ltr - 55 hp / 19.84 @ 66
84 Horizon / used to run 13's no power adders

[turbovanman²]

hmm... ok, lol

If u don't mind me asking why stay out of wot? And what is a cal?

Alex

WOT is Wide Open Throttle- a turbo "cal" calibration, dumps loads of fuel expecting boost, so if your n/a, it will bog.

If i had to do a N/a up again i would do a 2.5 hybrid with 2.4 cloud head and intake /exhaust manifolds use a turbo harness and build a n/a cal and call it done

That would be fun too, 16 valve head, side draft carb, header,

If you want to get the non-turbo car to go faster....trade it in. You can sink a ton of money in it to go just a but faster.....been there, done that. Keep it as a cruiser or trade it in.

35 time NHRA/IHRA Drag Race Champ
05 SRT4 / S2 / 12.87 @ 110 / DOTs
05 Mustang V6 / wifes / 15.17 @ 92 BONE stock
96 Geo Metro / 3 cyl - 1 ltr - 55 hp / 19.84 @ 66
84 Horizon / used to run 13's no power adders

Hahhaaa, good point unless you like tinkering.

[ATaylorRacing]

Tinkering is FINE...but the cost of the parts start adding up quick. I might be the first carb 2.2 street driven L body to run 13s...around 1986-7....but I also took a lightly modded GLH turbo that ran 13.9-14.0 and made it one of the first in the 11s with 150 hp shot of nitrous. There is a guy trying to sell a supercharger for the 2.2...if old Matchbox was not such a money maker running 17s with a stock 2.5 I'd buy it. The link to the sale is here:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=34536

35 time NHRA/IHRA Drag Race Champ
05 SRT4 / S2 / 12.87 @ 110 / DOTs
05 Mustang V6 / wifes / 15.17 @ 92 BONE stock
96 Geo Metro / 3 cyl - 1 ltr - 55 hp / 19.84 @ 66
84 Horizon / used to run 13's no power adders

[Vigo]

You can make a tbi MUCH faster, and here's how:

5 speed swap.

I took my tbi/auto Aries from 19.2 to 17.0 with a 5spd swap and minor mods. 90% of that improvement was the 5spd swap. It burned through 1st gear harder than my turbo spirit 5spd does.

I feel pretty confident that if i did it again i could get the car into the mid or low 16s with not much money.

Heck, even my tbi/5spd caravan ran 18.2.

However, i did a turbo swap on both and went from trapping 77 to 98 mph in the Aries (just the beginning). I havent gotten the turbo van running again yet.

[2.5L_Turbo_Sundance]

Yes, a 5 speed is in mind but I don't think I have all the parts... but if I co to a junkyard and find a 5 speed car there, what do I need?

Also how hard is the swap? Because I can't have the car sitting so long?

Just right now I'm using my truck for a couple days and the 50 I put in yesterday got me to 3/4 tank, not I'm under half... on a 30 gal tank...

Not too horrible but the daytona gets better miles.

Another thing is, I think I know the answer but, the cars are made the same right? I won't need to drill or fabricate anything on the firewall or anything right?

Just need to be sure...

And like I said that is a plan but I still wanna do more on top of that... idk why I wanna be so different... lol, but until I get. The 5speed, cause idk how long that will be...

Would I need a pcm for the 5speed, or can I just use the auto one?

Thanks
Alex

[2.5L_Turbo_Sundance]

Yes, a 5 speed is in mind but I don't think I have all the parts... but if I co to a junkyard and find a 5 speed car there, what do I need?

Also how hard is the swap? Because I can't have the car sitting so long?

Just right now I'm using my truck for a couple days and the 50 I put in yesterday got me to 3/4 tank, not I'm under half... on a 30 gal tank...

Not too horrible but the daytona gets better miles.

Another thing is, I think I know the answer but, the cars are made the same right? I won't need to drill or fabricate anything on the firewall or anything right?

Just need to be sure...

And like I said that is a plan but I still wanna do more on top of that... idk why I wanna be so different... lol, but until I get. The 5speed, cause idk how long that will be...

Would I need a pcm for the 5speed, or can I just use the auto one?

Thanks
Alex

[Vigo]

You need: Pedals, shifter, shifter cables, transmission, transmission mount, flywheel (with bolts), clutch disk and pressure plate, clutch cable, and odds and ends like the shift cable bracket on the trans and all the clips that go with the cables and the clutch cable.

Caveats:
For the pedals, just pull the nut off the shaft above the gas pedal and pull the whole pedal shaft out the driver side of the bracket its in, and keep the brake and clutch pedals and any associated clips/bushings/washers that go with that stuff.

Your tranny, shift cable bracket, shift cables, and shifter style all have to match. This is super easy if you take everything off of one car.

Dont forget to grab the clutch cable bracket thats bolted to the strut tower.

Dont get a transmission from an omni, charger, or anything older than 87. Those early trans (525 mostly) are junk compared to later stuff and need different axles too. Any 5 spd 87-up (520, 555, 523, 568) will bolt to your motor. They all have a stamped metal ID tag on the top of the bellhousing to read this number off of.


You do not strictly need the manual trans computer. Your auto computer will run the car just fine, with the exception that it will run your idle air control motor funny and make it do some goofy stuff thats not harmful but minorly annoying.

Also, you DO have to drill a hole in the firewall for the clutch cable, but there is a dimple there as a guide. There are holes in the strut tower for the clutch cable bracket that probably are plugged with a plastic thing right now. You also have to drill holes in the 'tunnel' area near the firewall for the shift cables to pass through. This is probably also marked, though on my swaps i am always in a hurry and just smack some hole through the floor without looking and it always works

[2.5L_Turbo_Sundance]

Yea that sounds like more then a weekend or days project... man I should have done it when I blew the first one... I blew one of the bands in it... and the drum was shot too...

Well if I blow this one its obviously going 5speed... not that I'm trying to blow it... but if it happens then that's what I'm doing...

But ill have the turbo car done by then...


Alex

[2.5L_Turbo_Sundance]

Yea that sounds like more then a weekend or days project... man I should have done it when I blew the first one... I blew one of the bands in it... and the drum was shot too...

Well if I blow this one its obviously going 5speed... not that I'm trying to blow it... but if it happens then that's what I'm doing...

But ill have the turbo car done by then...


Alex

[2.5L_Turbo_Sundance]

Why are my post always doubled? Can I delete the extra ones?

Anywho idk if ill even have time to do anything to it...

How about power steering delete? Right now I am tired of always filling it, and it keeps dropping out, I know where the leak is and it needs to be replaced... but I don't have the time and it doesn't bother me that much not to have it... if I remove the belt that would help right? Cause I haven't done so already cause its the belt closest to the engine... meaning the alternator/water pump belt needs to come out as well as the a/c, which would stay off, most likely...

Would that help?

Alex

[2.5L_Turbo_Sundance]

Why are my post always doubled? Can I delete the extra ones?

Anywho idk if ill even have time to do anything to it...

How about power steering delete? Right now I am tired of always filling it, and it keeps dropping out, I know where the leak is and it needs to be replaced... but I don't have the time and it doesn't bother me that much not to have it... if I remove the belt that would help right? Cause I haven't done so already cause its the belt closest to the engine... meaning the alternator/water pump belt needs to come out as well as the a/c, which would stay off, most likely...

Would that help?

Alex

[Vigo]

Your posts are more likely to be doubled if you post late at night or are on dial up, i have noticed. That doesnt mean i know why its happening to you, though!

You can delete the duplicates. When you are logged in go to the bottom right corner of the target post and hit the EDIT button. On the next screen there is an option above the actual text editing box that has the option to delete the post.