Calibrating the 2.4 running stock electronics

[Aries_Turbo]

i thought it was hammering the car but making sure that there was no knock (racegas etc) and then adding 10%. i didnt think it was no load as the change in boost level will make the block ring more, increasing the background noise.

brian

[Speedeuphoria]

Ok, so on that note, why aren't the aftermarket pistons domed?

the dished pistons are proven to make more HP, the ski ramp pistons are for emissions

JE makes forged copies of the stock pistons

[t3rse]

i thought it was hammering the car but making sure that there was no knock (racegas etc) and then adding 10%. i didnt think it was no load as the change in boost level will make the block ring more, increasing the background noise.

brian

Just unplug the knock sensor and call it a day

[Aries_Turbo]

Just unplug the knock sensor and call it a day

negative. thats foolishness. tune the system around the knock sensor so that its not intruding when the engine is not knocking.

the knock sensor is not there to detect knock during normal operation conditions. its there to pick up abnormalities and save the engine from them. things like bad gas, lots of heat soak, carbon build up hot spots etc.

if the knock sensor is feeding the ecu signals that it interprets as knock, when there isnt knock, then the system needs to be recalibrated.

unplugging the sensor is the lazy way of making power and results in broken parts needlessly.

brian

[1FastCSX289]

negative. thats foolishness. tune the system around the knock sensor so that its not intruding when the engine is not knocking.

the knock sensor is not there to detect knock during normal operation conditions. its there to pick up abnormalities and save the engine from them. things like bad gas, lots of heat soak, carbon build up hot spots etc.

if the knock sensor is feeding the ecu signals that it interprets as knock, when there isnt knock, then the system needs to be recalibrated.

unplugging the sensor is the lazy way of making power and results in broken parts needlessly.

brian

I think he was kidding......

[1FastCSX289]

Well........


ITS ALIIIIIVEEEE!!!!!!!


I got it up and running last night. I didnt realize there were a few extra steps to do to the wiring after Rich Bryant's distributor mods were done. I thought you just bolted it in and ran the ignition wires backward. Not so. You have to install the HEP backwards and then flip the HEP connectors as well. I didnt have a lot of time to spend with it once I got it started so I pretty much just adjusted the timing by ear so that it would kind of idle. I still have to hook up a few vacuum lines and some other odds and ends, so ill be back at it on Monday.

Anyone know what base timing should be set at on that motor??

[cordes]

i thought it was hammering the car but making sure that there was no knock (racegas etc) and then adding 10%. i didnt think it was no load as the change in boost level will make the block ring more, increasing the background noise.

brian

I agree that the load makes more noise so to speak which is why they said to add 10% to the table once you get the noise with no load. I could be wrong, but that is how I took it. We will have to get some clarification this year.

[Aries_Turbo]

I think he was kidding......

i think he is partially kidding.

Well........


ITS ALIIIIIVEEEE!!!!!!!


I got it up and running last night. I didnt realize there were a few extra steps to do to the wiring after Rich Bryant's distributor mods were done. I thought you just bolted it in and ran the ignition wires backward. Not so. You have to install the HEP backwards and then flip the HEP connectors as well. I didnt have a lot of time to spend with it once I got it started so I pretty much just adjusted the timing by ear so that it would kind of idle. I still have to hook up a few vacuum lines and some other odds and ends, so ill be back at it on Monday.

Anyone know what base timing should be set at on that motor??

good job. it should be set to 12deg im pretty sure as the cal is based on a SBEC cal and the base timing for that is still 12deg.

I agree that the load makes more noise so to speak which is why they said to add 10% to the table once you get the noise with no load. I could be wrong, but that is how I took it. We will have to get some clarification this year.

yeah we'll have to check that out. id rather datalog with some boost though and set it marginally higher.

brian

[crazymadbastard]

Shweeet!

[1FastCSX289]

good job. it should be set to 12deg im pretty sure as the cal is based on a SBEC cal and the base timing for that is still 12deg.





brian

Yea, this is what Rob said.....ill set it at 12* and go from there.

Shweeet!

Yea man! Im pretty pumped.

[contraption22]

Awesome! Happy you got it running. Thank you for sharing everything. Looking forward to your continued progress.

[1FastCSX289]

Awesome! Happy you got it running. Thank you for sharing everything. Looking forward to your continued progress.

Thanks Mike. I drove it on its own power today for the first time in about a year. Felt good. That 2.4 with the GT30R sounds WICKED. I didnt really get into it (yet), but it was making boost at about 1/4 throttle by 2500-3000 RPM....its going to be pretty wild!

[cordes]

Thanks Mike. I drove it on its own power today for the first time in about a year. Felt good. That 2.4 with the GT30R sounds WICKED. I didnt really get into it (yet), but it was making boost at about 1/4 throttle by 2500-3000 RPM....its going to be pretty wild!

Wild indeed. How fast are you looking to spin it?

[turbovanman²]

Thanks Mike. I drove it on its own power today for the first time in about a year. Felt good. That 2.4 with the GT30R sounds WICKED. I didnt really get into it (yet), but it was making boost at about 1/4 throttle by 2500-3000 RPM....its going to be pretty wild!

Need a vid,

[1FastCSX289]

Wild indeed. How fast are you looking to spin it?

Like a million......

I was thinking it will spin to similarly as the 8V motor.......6000-6500. Its all stock. I think the intake manifold might be a limiting factor there...its just a stock 2.0 man.

Need a vid,

Ill get to work on that and post one up.......engine bay still needs a little tidying so you'll have to excuse that part.

[contraption22]

I think that would be a safe ceciling. Actually the best ET's and traps I have gotten out of my SRT4 have been shifting at 5800. Granted... the turbo is a big choke on the SRT's.

[Aries_Turbo]

from a preliminary test that sean and i did today, it looks like the masi pumping efficiency table might not be the best for a 2.4L with a neon intake and a tubular header. idle was really rich and leaned out pretty bad around 4000rpm where the curve takes a big dip.

he has to button up a few potential issues that could cause the problem (one being put some gas in the car lol) and then do another test. i lowered the low rpm fuel that most likely was causing the rich idle and added some fuel in the "dip" at 4000. once a new chip is burned, we'll let you know how it runs.

later the fine tuning will begin and the boost tuning.

Brian

[1FastCSX289]

from a preliminary test that sean and i did today, it looks like the masi pumping efficiency table might not be the best for a 2.4L with a neon intake and a tubular header. idle was really rich and leaned out pretty bad around 4000rpm where the curve takes a big dip.

he has to button up a few potential issues that could cause the problem (one being put some gas in the car lol) and then do another test. i lowered the low rpm fuel that most likely was causing the rich idle and added some fuel in the "dip" at 4000. once a new chip is burned, we'll let you know how it runs.

later the fine tuning will begin and the boost tuning.

Brian

I took the car out for a run with the new pumping efficiency table and its still falling on its face. But the fuel pressure is dropping like a stone as soon as the boost comes in. I suspected a problem with my modified fuel rail. So, i removed it and took it apart this morning. I cant see any issues with it. But, I drilled it all out and gutted it so there is no seperate tube for inlet/outlet anymore. I will install it and test again. But, I am starting to suspect the fuel pump.

[turbovanman²]

I took the car out for a run with the new pumping efficiency table and its still falling on its face. But the fuel pressure is dropping like a stone as soon as the boost comes in. I suspected a problem with my modified fuel rail. So, i removed it and took it apart this morning. I cant see any issues with it. But, I drilled it all out and gutted it so there is no seperate tube for inlet/outlet anymore. I will install it and test again. But, I am starting to suspect the fuel pump.

Here-

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vb...e&articleid=36

[1FastCSX289]

Here-

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vb...e&articleid=36

Thanks Simon. I decided the fuel rail needed a little re-engineering anyways. After talking to Bucar, I decided it was probably best to feed the rail from both ends. So im in the process of making that work.......I got it all together but it leaks. So, back off it comes! If the new rail doesnt solve the problem, ill run those tests.