'04 SRT-4 engine in an '88 Caravan build

[A.J.]

How about I compare them to the SRT4 A/C bracket. They look the same. But Ill get the compressor off and take a look.

The SRT a/c bracket is heavy steel. I want to keep the light aluminum. If you can measure the distance between the mounting holes for the compressor in the SRT bracket, I might use it for simplicity.

This confirms that the Caravan bracket is taller and closer to the water outlet compared to the stratus alternator bracket.

Don't forget I wanted to use one vehicle for all my accessories for when I need parts I only have to remember one vehicle. I don't mind a little grinding and modification to accomplish that. But it's good to know for other people.

Looks like you are making great progress... You will probably be done before me.

Once I get my Tig you can consider this project done. I'm aiming for late December for completion.


I modified a 2.2/2.5 knock sensor to work on the 2.4. The threads are larger for the 2.2/2.5 and are 8mm X 1.25 for the 2.4. All I did was tap the knock sensor threads down to 8mm and it worked. I wanted to keep the 2.2/2.5 knock sensor because I'm using '89 SMEC electronics.





A.J.

[Aries_Turbo]

AJ, youll have to redefine the threshold curve so that the knock sensor detects actual knock. youll need to datalog the knock volts VS rpm with the engine under some load and then set the curve a few percent higher than that.

there is a chance that the output wont be even from cyl to cyl but that will have to be determined later.

Brian

[A.J.]

AJ, youll have to redefine the threshold curve so that the knock sensor detects actual knock. youll need to datalog the knock volts VS rpm with the engine under some load and then set the curve a few percent higher than that.

there is a chance that the output wont be even from cyl to cyl but that will have to be determined later.

Brian

I had read through that thread with the guy that put the SRT-4 engine in his red CSX awhile ago. I'm gonna have to go through it again after I get mine running. I just remembered the debate about which sensor to run and I figured I'd be that much closer if I could use the one that the computer's use to seeing. I'm not just going to start beating on this engine out of the box. I'm putting too much work into it to blow it up because the cal wasn't right.

A.J.

[Mopar318]

After further inspection, the A/C bracket I have is the same as what you have. Sorry!

[A.J.]

I got the spark plug wires done today. I'm using Rich Bryant's (screen name rbryant) distributor adaptor.











I figured I'd mount the coil where Chrysler intended it for this engine, I built the bracket out of angle iron from ACE.





I measured my A/C bracket today for anybody who has one off of an SRT-4 so we can determine if the '98 Caravan is the same. I can't imagine Chrysler using multiple a/c compressors if they could get away with using one, but you never know.

Top is about 5".


Bottom is about 4 1/2".


A.J.

[rbryant]

I measured my A/C bracket today for anybody who has one off of an SRT-4 so we can determine if the '98 Caravan is the same. I can't imagine Chrysler using multiple a/c compressors if they could get away with using one, but you never know.

They used lots of different compressors...

The PT and SRT4 use a late 2nd gen neon compressor from '03+ or so.

The stratus uses a different compressor. I think you said you looked this up and thought they were the same but I checked and they are indeed different than the caravan.

The vans actually use the same compressor as the 95-99 Neon but had a 6rib belt where the 1G Neon was a v belt.....

I think the Caravan actually shares the compressor and pulley with the Concorde/300M of all things....

-Rich

[135sohc]

Yeah LH cars use a V belt for the ac drive. The compressor is actually the same denso 10 series as the 91-95 4 cylinder k engine but everything else is different.

[A.J.]

Clutches and pulleys are easily swapped. Even most of the newer compressors have a plate on top where the hoses attach that can be swapped out to be used with different vehicles.

A.J.

[BIG PSI]

A J;

When are you hoping to have the Mini up and running with the SRT motor ?

[Mopar318]

I had time this morning and snapped some pictures with measurments for you off the neon A/C bracket and compressor and the SRT4 bracket and compressor. They are alot different. When got my neon it had already had a 2.4 swapped in, but Im pretty sure this bracket is from the stratus, as one of the holes was not used for the compressor...this hole must have went into the oil pan or something on the stratus.

SRT4 Bracket



About 4.5" on top



about 4" on bottom.



Stratus bracket?





SRT4 compressor left, neon on the right



The very left hole on the stratus bracket would be going into thin air. The srt4 bracket has its 4th bolt on the middle of the block. Personally, I would go ahead and use the SRT4 bracket and compressor, and just cut off the torque mount if you wont be using it. Its not that heavy, and it seems as iff the SRT4 uses really heavy duty stuff, but it last a long time.

[A.J.]

When are you hoping to have the Mini up and running with the SRT motor ?

Late December. November and December (and this year October) are my slow months so I'll be able to get the most done then.

I had time this morning and snapped some pictures with measurments for you off the neon A/C bracket and compressor and the SRT4 bracket and compressor. They are alot different. When got my neon it had already had a 2.4 swapped in, but Im pretty sure this bracket is from the stratus, as one of the holes was not used for the compressor...this hole must have went into the oil pan or something on the stratus.

SRT4 Bracket



About 4.5" on top



about 4" on bottom.



Stratus bracket?





SRT4 compressor left, neon on the right



The very left hole on the stratus bracket would be going into thin air. The srt4 bracket has its 4th bolt on the middle of the block. Personally, I would go ahead and use the SRT4 bracket and compressor, and just cut off the torque mount if you wont be using it. Its not that heavy, and it seems as iff the SRT4 uses really heavy duty stuff, but it last a long time.

Thanks for taking the time to post your findings. I'm gonna stick with my '98 Caravan compressor to keep everything '98 Caravan. I'd have to cut quite a bit off of the SRT a/c bracket to make it work. The top right mounting hole and the tensioner.





A.J.

[rbryant]

Stratus bracket?

This bracket is the 1G neon 2.0l bracket. People are able to use these with the 2.4 swap with a little work (it looks like it holes were ovaled out).

-Rich

[Mopar318]

This bracket is the 1G neon 2.0l bracket. People are able to use these with the 2.4 swap with a little work (it looks like it holes were ovaled out).

-Rich

Thanks, I wondered why the holes where ovaled like that.

Got a question for you off topic. If I send you a autocad file for a simple bracket can you cut it? Nobody here seems to want to because they are production facilities, and I dont have access to the schools equipment yet.

[rbryant]

Thanks, I wondered why the holes where ovaled like that.

Got a question for you off topic. If I send you a autocad file for a simple bracket can you cut it? Nobody here seems to want to because they are production facilities, and I dont have access to the schools equipment yet.

NP.

I will PM you about the bracket.

-Rich

[A.J.]

I mounted my fuel rail today. I couldn't use the SRT-4 fuel rail because it's a returnless system. I probably could have used a remote fuel pressure regulator but don't want to spend money on anything right now that I don't have to. I can always upgrade later if need be. I used a spare fuel rail I had off of a 2.2/2.5 one piece intake.

The fuel injectors lined up but the mounts don't.


Piece o' aluminum will fix that.


I don't think one hole will secure the block enough.


So I drilled another hole and taped it.


Counter sunk allen head bolts.


Secure.


And done.




I had to bend the pressure line around the thermostat housing.


I may have a problem with the return line. I may cut the thermostat housing and weld it back on at a different angle.


I have some parts from a DOHC on a 2.5 block project I was going to do. I got the parts off of a '99 Mitsubishi Eclipse. This bracket is from that. I had to modify it a little to make it work.


I also mounted my vacuum block today.




A.J.

[black86glhs]

Looking really good there A.J. Can you drill out the FP regulator holes and twist it slightly where it sits? Just enough to clear the housing? Or is the rad hose going to be the bigger issue?

[A.J.]

Looking really good there A.J. Can you drill out the FP regulator holes and twist it slightly where it sits? Just enough to clear the housing? Or is the rad hose going to be the bigger issue?

Do you mean oval out the mounting holes and clock it at a different angle? That's a good idea and might work. I'll look into it and take photos of what I do.

A.J.

[black86glhs]

Do you mean oval out the mounting holes and clock it at a different angle? That's a good idea and might work. I'll look into it and take photos of what I do.

A.J.

Yeah, thats it.

[2.216VTurbo]

It looks great on the stand AJ Clearly, you are into the looks of this set up and it shows. Back in the day when I was first doing simple/free/stupid mods to my GLHS, I wasn't running the plastic distrib 'dust cover' and I hated the way the distrib body had that akward strait front ege with the screw holes for the cover. So I pulled it and spent a couple hours with a Dremel grinding the front edge to have the same radious as the back edge. IMO, it cleaned up the look some. Prolly saved 3 ounces too Just sayin...

[1BADVAN]

if it comes down to it you could fab a spacer for the T-stat neck that raises the hose spout a minimal amount and rotates it however you want. more work but just an idea i wanted to throw out