'04 SRT-4 engine in an '88 Caravan build

[turboshelbys]

I grab Subaru FI clamps at the JY. stainless steel, phillips head screw, and they are nice and thick. Just cost me the $1 entry.

i never thought of that, i have a spare box of parts from my old wrx...time to go hunting. those are awesome clamps

[A.J.]

I dyno'd My van today. I also did a little tuning because it was too rich. With the tuning I gained about 38 ft/lbs of torque and 22 horsepower. The red lines are before and the blue lines are after. The first page is the horsepower and torque. The second page is AFR and boost. My boost is peaking and dropping off. The dyno guy says it's my wastegate spring, it's too weak.

[turboshelbys]

Great baseline tuning. Cant wait till you can feed that thing some boost

[A.J.]

And now I can see how wrong my torque converter is. If the 2.4 N/A converter is anything like like the 2.2/2.5 N/A converter then my stall is way to low (2200-2500 RPM) verses the 2.2/2.5 turbo converter (3300-3500 RPM). My peak torque is at 3700 RPM. No wonder I can't stage and when I finally do build any boost my trans temp is screaming.

[GLHNSLHT2]

looks like you could take some more fuel out above 5250 as well. That'd get you some more hp up top.

[A.J.]

looks like you could take some more fuel out above 5250 as well. That'd get you some more hp up top.

I'm not sure if that's possible. When adjusting the fuel tables it's in relation to boost, not RPM. I wasn't going to spend too much time tuning since I'm going to be installing an air to water intercooler with 2.5" pipes replacing the air to air i.c. with 2" pipes next week. THEN I'll spend more time fine tuning.

[GLHNSLHT2]

your boost looks very stable over that rev range, I bet a tweak to the Pumping Efficiency table from 5250-6500 would work. HP peak seems rather low, wonder how much the PT intake is the cause of that.

[A.J.]

your boost looks very stable over that rev range, I bet a tweak to the Pumping Efficiency table from 5250-6500 would work. HP peak seems rather low, wonder how much the PT intake is the cause of that.

Oh ya, I forgot about the Pumping Efficiency table. I hope the PT Intake isn't causing a problem. I don't want to re-engineer a new intake.

[Vigo]

Considering your optimum shift points currently look to be almost 6500, i dont think whatever the PT intake is doing to your powerband can really be called a problem.

[turboshelbys]

we had a pt cruiser using a stock intake make over 450whp, dont think it is going to be a problem.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Considering your optimum shift points currently look to be almost 6500, i dont think whatever the PT intake is doing to your powerband can really be called a problem.

I don't know if I agree with 6500, My thoughts is I'd be hitting the next gear about 5700-6000 at most. Depends on the gearing though I guess. 6500 just seems to high.

---------- Post added at 05:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:01 PM ----------

we had a pt cruiser using a stock intake make over 450whp, dont think it is going to be a problem.

Got any pics of the power curve on it?

[A.J.]

I got my air to water intercooler, heat exchanger, water pump, and before and after temp gauge today.

[Vigo]

I don't know if I agree with 6500, My thoughts is I'd be hitting the next gear about 5700-6000 at most. Depends on the gearing though I guess. 6500 just seems to high.

Well, i ran some numbers for you: If you shift 1-2 at 6500, you will land around 3700 rpm. Even though your powerband is already sloping down you're still making slightly more power at 6500 than at 3700, just to give you an idea of how LOW you end up after the 1-2 shift. If you shift at 5700 you land WAY down at 3200. There is a ~50 hp difference on your dyno between 3200 and 3700 rpm! You want to be accelerating 50hp harder any time you get the chance!

Its actually typical for many cars that riding out first gear farther than it 'feels right' is actually faster than shifting where it feels right, mostly because of where you end up in the next gear. It's faster to be zinging along at 6700 on your motor than it is to be at 3200.. I really do think your ideal 1-2 shift point is going to at least 6500 rpm if not 6700 rpm!

[A.J.]

Keep in mind I have an automatic so even though I may shift it at a certain RPM, the trans is going to shift when it wants.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Oh Automatic. forgot about that.

[A.J.]

I started the air to water intercooler install today. I didn't take detailed pictures because I only had my cell phone. I got the heat exchanger mounted. I also figured out where I'm going to mount the intercooler, above the intake. I have plenty of room there.

My dilemma is figuring out how to run the water hoses. Frozen Boost says the water pump is a pusher pump so it has to be mounted at the lowest point in the system. I'm not sure how plumb in the reservoir tank because it won't be the highest point. I think I'm going to have the pump mounted below the heat exchanger. The pump will push into the bottom of the intercooler, out the top, into the front of the i.c., out the back, have a T and have a 5/16" hose go to the small hose barb on the reservoir tank (to bleed out the air) and the 3/4" hose off the T go down to the suction side of the pump. I think I should have a T at the suction side of the pump and plumb the bottom 3/4" hose barb on the reservoir tank to it. What do you guys think? I'm open to all opinions and suggestions.







Eleven feet of intercooler plumbing got removed today.

[Vigo]

Keep in mind I have an automatic so even though I may shift it at a certain RPM, the trans is going to shift when it wants.

Well i would just set your kickdown to WOT upshift at whatever rpm 'feels good' on the street, and then just manually hold gears with manual 1st and 2nd at the track. The only way the trans stops you is if it is set up to shift HIGHER than 6500-6700 rpm on its own.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Man should of gotten the bigger cooler with all that room Can't move that reservoir up another couple inches?? Just need the small side nipple to be higher up. That pump will suck water pretty good. It's the cheaper bilge pump that is a pusher only pump and needs to be low. You got the more expensive nicer bosch pump. I'd mount around the outlet of your heat exchanger. Once the system is filled it'll be totally fine. Don't forget to drill a small bleed hole into the water manifold of the i/c and run it to the small nipple on the reservoir so it can bleed air out.

[A.J.]

Don't forget to drill a small bleed hole into the water manifold of the i/c and run it to the small nipple on the reservoir so it can bleed air out.

I'm not 100% sure what you mean. Are you saying drill a hole higher than the 1/2" NPT outlet that's provided? I was just going to put a T on the outlet (side facing the firewall) and run the 3/4" barb to the suction side of the pump and a smaller barb (5/16") to the small barb on the reservoir. But if I do it my way I could see some air getting trapped in the corner of the intercooler.

The reservoir isn't mounted yet, it's just sitting on the strut tower. It will be a few inches higher than pictured.

[Vigo]

What is to stop you from putting the intercooler where your current airbox is?